RMS in a 68 Barracuda, oil pan problems

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SGBARRACUDA

SGBARRACUDA

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Ok I went and installed the 416 in my Barracuda. Ran into a problem right off. I have a Milodon #30935 oil pan on it that is 8 3/4" deep. the pass front corner hits the rack and pinion mouting bolt, BAD, not just a little. Doesn't allow the back of the engine to be lowered where it needs to be. I call and talk to Bill at RMS, ask which pan do I need, he tells me he's not heard of any Milodon pan not working? Oh lucky me! They do make a #30936 that is 7 3/4" deep, one inch less than the one I have., though I don't think it is enough to clear the rack mounting bolt. Now there are enough of these out there that someone should be able to answer my question. Bill did say he was sending 4 RMS suspensions to Milodon so they can design a different pan. I guess I'm not the only one?
 
Thought I would include a couple of pictures.

oil pan hitting rack.jpg


oil pan hitting rack-2.jpg
 
I'll be running a Milodon 31580 for my GTS set up. The pan is 7" deep and 7 quarts. You want a 31595 I believe? 7" deep and 6 quarts.
 
If you want to run that pan, you'll be sectioning that corner off for bolt access. Milodon will shrug their shoulders at you is my guess.

Same spot that bashes into a factory K frame on an A body... :(
 
You could notch it too but I do think the road race pan will work. Then the headers will probably hit!
 
Well I guess they have had problems with the Alterkation Suspensions and Bill fromRMS sent 4 front suspension to Milodon today for them to make a better fitting pan. The guy I talked to today said they built a few rear sump Super Stock pans but I need to call Ken on Monday. I guess he had left already for the day when I called. Canton and Moroso make a pan that will work, but they hang down real low.
crackedback said:
If you want to run that pan, you'll be sectioning that corner off for bolt access. Milodon will shrug their shoulders at you is my guess.

Same spot that bashes into a factory K frame on an A body... :(
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the pan U have is 8 3/4" deep , the Canton 15-900 is 9" and the same width as stock. the moroso is 10"
 
kind of looking like a stock truck pan would work fine on that set up. that's what I run with my tube K on my iron head 360.
 
A body said:
kind of looking like a stock truck pan would work fine on that set up. that's what I run with my tube K on my iron head 360.
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That is what Ken at Milodon was talking about , he designed a rear sump pan for Super Stock racing. I'll find out more details on it on Monday.
 
sump starts approx. 11" back from the front of the block. Sump is 8 1/4 deep. This mill will go 10.8's in Vegas and oiling has never been an issue.

EBEAFAD8-245E-4CA0-B4E1-66A8303B91AC_zpsjk5iq4ka.jpg
 
Marcohotrod said:
the pan U have is 8 3/4" deep , the Canton 15-900 is 9" and the same width as stock. the moroso is 10"
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Yeah I'm not crazy about the depth. This #30935 is 8 3/4" deep. Milodon makes a #30936 that is 7 3/4" deep but is still to deep to clear the rack mounting bolt. The #30935 is about a inch lower than the RMS frame member.
 
A body said:
sump starts approx. 11" back from the front of the block. Sump is 8 1/4 deep. This mill will go 10.8's in Vegas and oiling has never been an issue.
That is one I'm considering. Not sure if they will conflict with the TTI step headers I have.
EBEAFAD8-245E-4CA0-B4E1-66A8303B91AC_zpsjk5iq4ka.jpg
Click to expand...
 
30985 is rear sump..... but over 10" deep (off road truck pan)

Kevco Racing Part # M303 | M304 might be worth looking at.
 
We ran TTI headers on our W5 using the Milodon pan you showed (this was back in our stock K days)... they cleared the kickout of the Milodon pan so I can't see where they wouldn't work with a truck pan that has no kickout to speak of. Finding one at the boneyard might be a trick.... that stuff just isn't laying around like it used to.
 
I may have a rear sump kevco pan...

Not sure if it would work.
 
Just section the pan and move on, I've done two Milodon pans to clear my Hedman headers.
 
justinp61 said:
Just section the pan and move on, I've done two Milodon pans to clear my Hedman headers.
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that's funny.... our Hedman Hustler headers interfered with the milodon and stock pan. With the install of the tube K we just had the headers "reworked" since we had the room. We always had to run a spacer on the head to kick them out far enough.

....so get out the sharpie and cut the corners off the pan far enough for some clearance. you'll then get to see if your skilled enough with that metal gluer together thingy in that shop picture to fab up some pieces and weld it together so it doesn't leak!
 
it's just so nice to have the torsion bars gone, and the steering linkage out of the way.

d7bdfa01-80f1-42f7-b070-753b186de93a_zps9003db3a.jpg
 
Glad you post that picture. Bring to mind another question. I notticed the tube style trans cooler you have mounted, I have one just like it. Does it do a good job? Are you happy with it mounted there?

A body said:
it's just so nice to have the torsion bars gone, and the steering linkage out of the way.

d7bdfa01-80f1-42f7-b070-753b186de93a_zps9003db3a.jpg
Click to expand...
 
the trans cooler is 52 passes old now.... and when I was in Sacramento going rounds we did start to have issues keeping the trans temp manageable. Our next thought is to attach it with quick release pins and simply drop it into a pan of water and let it run in N for a bit to try and get the temp down..... think the last pass I went to the line with it at 220 which isn't real bad, but was higher than the previous passes by 40 degrees or so. In the name of consistency I'd like to have it lower.
 
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