Rocker arm info please !!

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It means the rocker arm ratio. 1.5 is what these motors came from the factory with (actually the factories quality was so poor, most rocker arms were 1.3-1.44 ratio) so a good aftermarket rocker arm will have a true 1.5, 1.6, etc... Ratio. So having a new aftermarket one is best. Ok the higher the ratio means you can use a smaller cam and get the same effect of a bigger cam, I.e. With a 1.5 and big cam would = a 1.6 and a smaller cam (or 1.7 and an even smaller cam).
 
To put it very simply, it's the ratio of valve lift to actual camshaft lobe size. Basically with 1.5 to 1 rockers your valve will open 1.5 thousandths for every thousandth of cam lift. Bear in mind 99% of cams are advertised with lift already figured with 1.5 rockers. For example, a .500" lift cam usually means .500" lift at the valve with 1.5 rockers, while the camshaft lobes are actually .333". So if you ran that same camshaft with 1.6 rockers, you would end up with .533" of lift at the valve.

Always check before you change rocker arm ratios because it's very easy to misjudge and put a hole in a piston or two.
 
Those are a nice set, but you need to know your piston to deck height, and your camshaft specs (both lift and duration) before you buy anything.
 
cam i have is a .528 lift solid don't know the duration is there a good street cam u could recommend with these or is the cam i have ok???
 
I think you are refering to the MP purple shaft .528 . It has 284 duration...242 at .050. thats a great cam! It idles great, works with power brakes and makes good power. Andy F from Moparts made 565HP with that cam with exhaust manifolds. Read the article http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/550hp.html
 
$64.35? Are they even worth that much? I don't think I would risk it.
 
those are real nice for that price. go ahead and purchase a set. keep in mind that you will have to also have to get hardened rocker shafts for them. the needle bearings have tendency to eat into the stock shafts. they run between $80-$90 each but well worth the extra price when getting the rockers at that $65+s.
 

No way I would use those. Not on your life. Not on a whipped 361 2bbl. In a rusty Senaca... 4dr... that only runs a water pump from a belt on the rear tire.

Expect to spend between 350-450 on a set of decent new rockers, or search for some Crane Golds or similar name brand used for 1/2 that or less.
 
No way I would use those. Not on your life. Not on a whipped 361 2bbl. In a rusty Senaca... 4dr... that only runs a water pump from a belt on the rear tire.

Expect to spend between 350-450 on a set of decent new rockers, or search for some Crane Golds or similar name brand used for 1/2 that or less.


What he said , you buy cheap chinese junk you get cheap chinese junk ... i haven't bee n allowed to say that in a while :blob:

Rocker arms are the last place to skimp , one breaking will cause all kinds of expensive problems.
 
look for a set of ductile iron rockers. Crane, Isky and ma Mopar made them. They are strong and last a long time. you should be able to find a set for under $150
 
Couple of thoughts on this subject:

First, the rocker arms you are looking at on ebay I would not buy, and here is why based on my judgement: First, the material they are made of is inferior and not tested, you will get low life from them. Second, the bearings, when they go could really damage your motor. Third, setting them up - You will have many problems getting them properly aligned, side load etc.... I would not be worth it in the long run.

Ma' Mopar factorys are decent - not the best, but reliable. If you are on a true budget, these still produce decent power and are reliable.

Next - The ductiles - Excellent for the price - relaible, reusable and SOLID

Aluminums - Harland - Comp, etc are great, but the draw backs I see is you need to check in on them, they have a life span and they too fail, but are more accurate on there engineering, material, and reliablity. (Yes, this will open a thread or two on debates)

T&D / RAS: The best - but plan on spending $$$$$$$$$$ -, and your choise of aluminum or steel, I am a steel guy- (Comp/RAS)

And the Jesel - MANY $$$$$$$$$

So when I look at this my debates are on the build type. I personally prefer the bronze shimmed steel with hardend shafts. I send mine to RAS to have them inspected, oil holes cleaned and all checked before use. I have had a set of 440 sources and did not like them. In my judgement they are better than the ones you are looking at on ebay, but they are sloppy, take time to set up and will probably fail in the long run. (but have not yet) I also have the ductiles on mechanical cam - They are great. I also have bought RAS - The best in my book for all around.

Sorry for the rant, but I have spent (wasted) too much money on this and just want to pass my "Market Research" on to the next. I am not a pro motor builder, NHRA specialist, etc, just a Mopar fan with expensive and not always favorable experience.

- Hope this helps
 
GUYS I'M BUILDING A 426 WEDGE ,,I DON'T KNOW WHAT 1.5,1.6,1.7 MEANS AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT U GUYS THINK OF THESE I'M ON A BUDGET,,PLEASE SCHOOL ME A LITTLE..

Not for nothing, that cam on a normal rocker ratio is a cam that will make some pretty good power. If you start messing around with different rocker ratio's, you'll need a upgrade in springs and if the head flow ability isn't up to the new lift, there's nearly ZERO reason to change ratio's on the rocker.

I also would worry about a needle bearing rocker being sold for this price. Sometimes, "If it is to good to be true, ........"

\Saving money on parts like this will only have you spending the amount of the build over again, minus a few more bucks for quality parts which should have been purchased in the first spot.

Not trying to rag on you, (Your so quick to jump on my *** on that anyway) but save up and spend wisely.
 
guys thanks for all the advice i got a nice used set of crane cast iron ones!!
rumble i have no problem with u what happened in the past is done and i have moved on i hope one day we could be friends but thats up to u no hard feelings here have a blessed holiday,,sd426
 
LOL, that'll never happen. Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 
Here are your rocker choise's
0902001018.jpg


Here are T and D's
$1169
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Couple of thoughts on this subject:

First, the rocker arms you are looking at on ebay I would not buy, and here is why based on my judgement: First, the material they are made of is inferior and not tested, you will get low life from them. Second, the bearings, when they go could really damage your motor. Third, setting them up - You will have many problems getting them properly aligned, side load etc.... I would not be worth it in the long run.

Ma' Mopar factorys are decent - not the best, but reliable. If you are on a true budget, these still produce decent power and are reliable.

Next - The ductiles - Excellent for the price - relaible, reusable and SOLID

Aluminums - Harland - Comp, etc are great, but the draw backs I see is you need to check in on them, they have a life span and they too fail, but are more accurate on there engineering, material, and reliablity. (Yes, this will open a thread or two on debates)

T&D / RAS: The best - but plan on spending $$$$$$$$$$ -, and your choise of aluminum or steel, I am a steel guy- (Comp/RAS)

And the Jesel - MANY $$$$$$$$$

So when I look at this my debates are on the build type. I personally prefer the bronze shimmed steel with hardend shafts. I send mine to RAS to have them inspected, oil holes cleaned and all checked before use. I have had a set of 440 sources and did not like them. In my judgement they are better than the ones you are looking at on ebay, but they are sloppy, take time to set up and will probably fail in the long run. (but have not yet) I also have the ductiles on mechanical cam - They are great. I also have bought RAS - The best in my book for all around.

Sorry for the rant, but I have spent (wasted) too much money on this and just want to pass my "Market Research" on to the next. I am not a pro motor builder, NHRA specialist, etc, just a Mopar fan with expensive and not always favorable experience.

- Hope this helps

Factory stamped are ok on a small hyd. cam , but if he is going to a solid it's not even a choice.

You say that the source rockers have not failed yet ??? you don't get around much on the net then , more than one person has had an engine turned into junk because of that rocker. At least you were smart enough to dump them instead of running them even though there were already failures being reported , or weren't stupid enough to keep using them after one failed in your engine and brandon was nice enough to send you a replacement ...
 
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