Rockers question

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I used a set of this type of rocker on a 360 some years ago. They worked fine for many years with the stock rocker shafts. You will need a set of push rods with a cup on one end to mate up to the ball end of the rocker stud.

Russ
 
I'll look at those on e-bay. When I purchased the rockers from Summit, their rep was able to match a set of Crane pushrods to my setup. I am guessing you will be using stock length rods only with a stock type ball on the lifter end and the cup on the rocker end. Summit will fix you up.......

Russ
 
there are two lengths from crane....7.50 for solid lifter cams with adjustable rockers...and 7.32 for hydraulic lifter cams with adjustable rockers...
 
FWIW, I always wondered about the 7.32" pushrods. I believe the 340-6 T/A pushrods were actually around 7.21" with their hydraulic lifters. So 7.32 may stil be a bit long, especially if there is any block and/or head decking.
 
I just put a Lunati cam in my 340 with Hughes rockers and the 7.32" pushrods were to long. I ended up buying a set of custom pushrods from smith brothers and they were 7.25" for my application.
 
69771-16 is the kit with a whole set of rockers. the part you linked is a single rocker arm (not sure if it's left or right offset or what)

as far as shafts, if yours are cherry you could use them.

pushrods - it varies like people have said. they sell cut-to-fit sets; you need a checking tool as well, which is just a pushrod you can adjust the lenght, and when you get it right you measure the lenght and then cut your pushrod to match.

basically you cut them and press the cup end onto the pushrod so the overall lenght from cup to ball is what you need.

if you go with 1.6 ratio i'm pretty sure you will need a custom lenght.

on my old 340 dart i used a set i got off a 273 from a trashed 66 barracuda in a junkyard. i grabbed the shafts rockers hold downs pushrods and was out the door for $25 bucks lol

fit my 340 just right, i had unmilled 2.02 heads with springs for my solid cam (.550) i had no clearance issues.

in an ideal world, if you go 1.6 you need to get custom pushrods, cut them to fit properly, check all alignments/clearances making sure the rockers dont hit spring etc rocker is centered on the valve stem, valves have plenty of clearance from the piston, etc etc.

and if you are going through all that trouble you should be running a solid lifter cam at that point, because hydraulic lifters will pump up at 6000 or so and then you start breakin stuff. soilds can go much higher rpms, i ran mine over 7k no problem.
 
additional work you will need to do, when you get a nice solid cam in there, and the carb is tuned and she's runnin smooth like a kitten but roaring like a lion you better chain the engine down on the drivers side. or get one of those fancy schumacher torque strap things. back in the day we didnt have that, i just had a one foot lenght of heavy chain bolted to the drivers side head and bolted to the frame rail. before i got that on there my engine would literally rip the drivers side motor mount apart
 
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