Ruined heads?

-

Bodyperson

Pedal to the metal
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2015
Messages
10,176
Reaction score
14,399
Location
NW MONTANA
Are these heads worth keeping in my stash. The gaskets were intact and it ran okay. 202 valved j head. No other port work was done. Just the port entrance. Just for reference, my dumb *** did this before the internet existed. I just tore the 340 apart for a new build. I'm not using these heads, just running out of room to store junk. Lol

20231126_133954.jpg
 
Scrap iron. Wow, I don't think I have ever seen ports that thin.
 
Scrap iron. Wow, I don't think I have ever seen ports that thin.
would it be possible to weld them back in or is that too much effort for an iron head? I did something similar to my aluminum intake and I had it tig welded back to a workable size then I tried again.
 
would it be possible to weld them back in or is that too much effort for an iron head? I did something similar to my aluminum intake and I had it tig welded back to a workable size then I tried again.
Maybe silicone bronze but maybe some warping. Probably not worth it compared to what is available otherwise.
 
Maybe silicone bronze but maybe some warping. Probably not worth it compared to what is available otherwise.
that's what happened to my intake, but I was told that I could plane it to make it even again, but I had a torker I just picked up so I slapped that on instead. (was much more careful with the porting on that one)
 
I read it somewhere. I suppose in a high rpm race situation, you wouldn't even need a gasket between the ports.
grind it all out and let the fuel mixture go wherever it wants. LMFAO
would it be possible to weld them back in or is that too much effort for an iron head? I did something similar to my aluminum intake and I had it tig welded back to a workable size then I tried again.
Only if it was the last set on earth.
 
Don't feel bad, when i did my first set at 16/17yrs old, it was early SBC heads and while not near as drastic, i eventually learned that the port entrance was not nearly as important as the valve job, bowl, short side etc.

And yes, they are door stops.:(
 
I would remove all of the valves, springs, retainers, shims and keepers, Store them away until you find a good deal on another pair of heads and build them. From there I'd use the old castings as boat anchors, door stops, or whatever.
 
Anything can be fixed, but it would probably cost you more to resurrect them than it would cost to buy a new set of better aluminum heads.
As Demonracer said, strip 'em down and save the parts. Speedmaster bare heads are on Black Friday special for $280.86 a pop right now. Use your old parts to finish them off.
 
I did some like that with some Chevy 350 heads when I was a kid and I actually ran them. lol
 
Yeah, been there. I shudder when I remember my first attempt at porting- then I start to cry when I remember that they were X heads.
 
Yeah, been there. I shudder when I remember my first attempt at porting- then I start to cry when I remember that they were X heads.
I never got any better. "A man's gotta know his limitations"
 
That's some skill with the tools for sure
It took a lot of time. Did it during my lunch hours at work. Heads on the frame rack and me on the stool. Always had my safety equipment on. Metal grinding can kill ya. They actually ran pretty good but i messed up in a lot of other ways. I wiped out the 273 rockers with homemade shaft shims. I was young too. I found a spot for them. Ill keep the valves and thing for another build some day. I'm really intrigued with the FAST racing class but it will never hit my area. Wont keep me from building one though.
 
Are they flat?
Is that razor thin common wall flush with the rest?
If so, run them. Take and gasket match the intake and go for it.
If it's not flush and its open.. how much ?
Enough to disrupt or cause distribution issues?like a stove bolt or whatever the hell siamese port pos it was.
 
Are they flat?
Is that razor thin common wall flush with the rest?
If so, run them. Take and gasket match the intake and go for it.
If it's not flush and its open.. how much ?
Enough to disrupt or cause distribution issues?like a stove bolt or whatever the hell siamese port pos it was.
They came off of running engine. I happened to ruin a nice factory manifold too. LOL. I recently tore the engine down and was surprised to find the trimmed intake gaskets intact. It ran pretty good. I think the porting didn't help or hurt.
 
If the rest of the heads look ok, run them. With the intake gaskets, remove the divider between the ports so that that it does not get sucked in [or blown out with a backfire ]. Some engines [ not Chrys ] were made with the divider in the heads recessed, ran just fine.
 
If the rest of the heads look ok, run them. With the intake gaskets, remove the divider between the ports so that that it does not get sucked in [or blown out with a backfire ]. Some engines [ not Chrys ] were made with the divider in the heads recessed, ran just fine.
The rest of the head is untouched, other than the 2.02 valves and positive seals. It ran okay. It probably has potential
 
If the rest of the heads look ok, run them. With the intake gaskets, remove the divider between the ports so that that it does not get sucked in [or blown out with a backfire ]. Some engines [ not Chrys ] were made with the divider in the heads recessed, ran just fine.
similar to a performer rpm style intake, the divider is cut down.
neil.
 
Are these heads worth keeping in my stash. The gaskets were intact and it ran okay. 202 valved j head. No other port work was done. Just the port entrance. Just for reference, my dumb *** did this before the internet existed. I just tore the 340 apart for a new build. I'm not using these heads, just running out of room to store junk. Lol

View attachment 1716171050
I would get another set if it was mine but if must to be used, I don't see why you could not have them surfaced and double up on the gaskets, at the intake, as long as the head does not need to be milled much.
 
-
Back
Top