Running hot

-
70Duster440 said:
In a similar boat with a BB a-body and 22" rad. Everything is new. Tried thermo clutch, fan (Hayden) as well as 17" electric.

66340Sedan, where did you come up with the 2 piece metal shroud?
Click to expand...

Ebay, got it cheap too!! :toothy10: I have another that my friend is using to make a copy cause he needs one.
 
i have always tested fan clutches by driving the car till it is warmed up then pull over and feel how much air its pushing. you say it looks like you have good coolant flow so by the issue in stop and go traffic the only difference would seem to be air flow? or you could even see if its an air problem in your driveway by letting the car warm up then put a good house fan on high in front of it and see if the temp drops. also check your carbs idle mix, could be a couple small things making a big problem.
 
I'm gonna get the rad recored to 3 core. Think (hope) thats the problem. I'll post later with the results. Thanks everybody for the inputs. Tom
 
Pretty much got it fixed. Runs a constant 180 when cruising. Multiple issues. The POS replacement rad from Advance had multiple cores blocked with slag from the welding process. Got a new 3 core put in by the rad shop. BTW, forget $100 3 core conversions. Cost of copper & lead is out of sight. With the 3 core I was running 190 (down from 220+) when cruising. I got to thinking about the concentration of anti-freeze. It pegged out on the meter at -45 degrees. I drained the radiator only, added water wetter and filled it with water. Anti-freeze is now good to -10. Now I'm running 180 and happy. What a PITA that issue was. Thanks guys for all the suggestions. Tom
 
I hear ya! How did you find out that the cores was blocked?

I guess with the copper going up that copper core radiators cost about the same as a aluminum. I think I will go aluminum on my next radiator. My cousin has all his radiators custom made for his race cars out of aluminum. He asked me would I want a aluminum radiator custom made for my car to let him know.
 
It sounds to me that if your going down the road at 50-55 and it still heats up you have a flow restriction somewhere.

just my 2 cents
 
360 swinger said:
It sounds to me that if your going down the road at 50-55 and it still heats up you have a flow restriction somewhere.

just my 2 cents
Click to expand...

He found the restriction.

It was "The POS replacement rad from Advance had multiple cores blocked with slag from the welding process."
 
Man this is a great thread. I'm having the EXACT same issue with my Dart. It starts and heats up normal, will start to raise in traffic, then cool down once moving but at a certain point (220-230) for any length of time it cant recover. I've tried everything too and no help except the clutch fan. I as well have a POS parts store 22" replacement radiator and I'm wondering if getting a recore 3-row job to it is the ticket. I know I can get it done for about $240 but I was trying everything else before going that route.

Tom-Glad you got it figured out and thanks for the info.
 
I am having pretty much the same trouble. I have put in a new water pump and an electric fan and have not had much luck. When I put the ne pump in I put in a 50/50 mix of fluid, maybe I should have flushed the system before I took the old pump off. Maybe I will have to make a trip to the radiator shop and have it worked on. It seemed to be OK last year but this spring we put the 4 barrel on the 318 to give it a little more PEP.8)

At least I know more guys have the same issue and now I know the next step to take.
 
Hell, I'm running a 360, 9:1..nothing drastic. Engine was totally rebuilt, and it always kinda runs hot.

In the winter months it's fine, but once it starts to warm up outside (85+ degrees) it gets pissy in traffic, and doesn't cool down once out on the highway.

17x26" 3 core radiator
25% coolant mix
water wetter
180 degree stat (tested to work at proper temp)
dual 12" E-fans pushing 3000cfm

I haven't given it a "proper" shake down with the e-fans yet, but sitting in the driveway it heats up to 200, and stays there. I have the E-fans set to kick in at 200/out at 180, but they don't seem to cool it down, just keep it from getting hotter. I'll see how it goes, but it really should cool better with all the cooling help I'm giving it.

My timing is set at 19 degrees at idle. Is that too much? Does lean running really effect how hot the engine runs? I ask because I know my engine isn't tuned very well right now.
 
You need a shroud i had the exact same probem on my 73 dart with a 360 i put a factory shroud on it- problem solved the hottest it ran was 190
 
Just an FYI - I dont want to hyjack the thread but I figured I'd post my latest results. Basically I got an old OEM 22" shroud for free that was cracked at the top. I glued it back together. Go my rad flow tested (35gpm) and installed a 180 t-stat (replaced the 195 that was in there). Problem solved. It was 91 degrees here last week and I went for a drive and then sat in my driveway in Drive for awhile. It stayed around 190 while cruising. It crept up to 200 while I sat in the driveway but once it got there it didnt budge. The shroud was what made the most difference...

I did actually pop for the alluminum Mancini OEM look replacement unit and shroud and it just came in Friday. My Autozone special and ugly beat up shroud just dont look very nice so even though I got it work ok, I'm hoping to stay more rock-steady around 180 with the new alluminum set-up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top