Rust Converter

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If it's surface rust, I try Evaporust or something like it and then PHIX. It's a phosphate converter. Yes, epoxy is good, but it is catalyzed paint. Ventilation and usual precautions.
 
I have and use weld primer but the tubing has some flash rust inside. The question is how to treat it . It’s 3x1” tube …. I guess i could use my buddies sand blaster . Or just leave it because it will be 30 years before it rusts thru .
Cap one end and fill with white vinegar then lets sit a day or two. Flush and brush it out. I don’t think you need to neutralize if you flush it well enough. Vinegar is much cheaper than other rust removers and works really well on light surface rust.
 

Unhappy performance of most products is due to unrealistic expected performance of the products or unwillingness to use the product for it's intended usage.
 
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I used Eastwood rust encapsulator recently. Worked great.

On heavier rust I like to neutralize it first and I like the rustoleum gel rust converter. You brush off the heavy scale and spray it on, I use a cheap paint brush to move it around and work it in. It turns the rust black and stops it from spreading. To neutralize it says to rinse with water but I wipe it a few times with a water soaked rag. Blow it dry quickly then prime.
I have never used the Rustoleum Gel Rust Converter. I normally just do a second application of liquid converter. I think I'll get some of the Rustoleum stuff and give it a try. THANKS. Any special ideas, or just follow the instructions?
 
Unhappy performance of most products is due to unrealistic expected performance of the products or unwillingness to use the product for it's intended usage.
OR refusal to follow the instructions. If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone complain about something not working and then find out they didn't follow the instructions, I could buy my dream car (64 Sport Fury Convertible).
 
I have never used the Rustoleum Gel Rust Converter. I normally just do a second application of liquid converter. I think I'll get some of the Rustoleum stuff and give it a try. THANKS. Any special ideas, or just follow the instructions?
I just followed the instructions. Except the rinse with water part. I couldn’t make myself run the hose inside the truck. So I used wet rags.
 
I agree with using a converter FIRST. BUT, I'm not a fan of the Ospho type stuff. It MUST be neutralized. If you miss any at all in cracks and crevices, it WILL cause problems. SO use a converter that does not require neutralizing. Come back over it with (I like the Rustoleum) then prime with a good epoxy primer and paint it. The rest of the car will rot around it before the repair area rots.
 
I'm a big fan of rust Mort. Follow the instructions. Yes you must rinse it dry it, scuff again and epoxy prime then paint.
 
There are a lot of rust treatment products available some are paints like POR 15 that say they will stop the rust dead in its tracks and can be painted over. I have used POR 15 in the past with good results. I usually use it for places like the inside of a door on the bottom after I use a rust converter.
However, the Op asked about rust converters, so that is what I will address. I have never used REM Rust Mort. I have used several kinds over the years, but I like the TP Tools brand rust converter. There is also a Rust Kutter brand available from Amazon. The rust converters work by converting the rust to a Phosphate. They contain Phosphoric acid. That is why you MUST wear gloves and eye protection. First you want to get rid of all dents as much as possible with hammer and dolly. Then you get rid of loose rust with a wire brush and/or sandpaper. Then blow off the area and clean it thoroughly (I use lacquer thinner). Then apply the converter carefully. I use a disposable bristle brush. Don't use a foam brush. Then allow at least 24 hours to dry. If it is cool or high humidity, it could take a few days to dry. You will usually have a light chalky white covering over the black converted rust. I clean the surface with a damp rag, then I hit it lightly with 320 dry sandpaper. Heavy surface rust may need two applications. Then I spray the area with Epoxy Primer. Then I lightly block sand the epoxy primer with 320 to find the places that will need a little filler. After the filler is applied and expertly sanded, apply high build primer. There will be 20 people with 20 different ways to do it, but this has worked very well for me for a long time. I have never had surface rust come back.
Yes the best converters are phosphorus acid. They leave behind a layer of iron phosphate which protects the steel. If you coat the entire panel it is unlikely you will get flash rust if done properly so it’s ok to use water.
Other acids such as citric,muriatic,acetic,etc will leave nothing and require other treatments and sealants.
Every epoxy primer I have used and researched are spec.ed to paint over some rust. So if you get flash rust, wipe it off and spray over it.
 
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