Rust removal, how far????

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dusted72

dusted72

Thanks Hemiroid!!!!
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Ok I am having trouble finding a good chemical rust remover and I have tried grinding a few places. I am using a small angle grinder with Rol-lock wheels and 36 grit. It came really clean just a few small spots smaller then a pin head. I also used one of those black stripping wheels in another spot and it left a little more. But my question is does evey little bit have to come off or is this small amount acceptable. First pics stripper wheel and second pic the grinder is one the right stripper wheel on left. You can't even see the rust in the grinder spot but they are there just really small.

Rusty inner question pics 007.jpg


Rusty inner question pics 005.jpg
 
How is the other side of the piece?
You can try spot putty on it then
spray it with epoxy primer on both
sides. This will seal the metal.
 
That is where the fender bolts across the top it is really solid underneath with a bunch of under coat on the bottom side. I am not to worried about it being to rusty on bottom since it is really thick metal still, I just didn't know if this stuff will keep growing if there are minute amounts of rust still there.
 
Most, if not all, body shops use epoxy primer.
It seals the metal so it won't go any further.
I'm re doing a 67 notchback. The car is going
to have epoxy primer inside and out.
 
their are lots of rust killers on the market. your automotive paint store would have one. they have phosphoric acid in them to kill the rust.
 
cudaman51 said:
their are lots of rust killers on the market. your automotive paint store would have one. they have phosphoric acid in them to kill the rust.
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I find the POR 15 or Eastwood products are the best for these
 
I have tried a couple with phosphoric in it and I don't like the way they look in the end. I took a wire wheel to a couple spot earlier and it cleaned them out really good. I have already bought a couple different types of rust dissolver/remover and I really don't have the cash to buy more that is why I was wandering if I could get away with the small amount if rust that is left.
 
Sandblast it......I'm of the minority judging from the posts above, but rust will always be there if you dont remove it. I wouldn't risk it coming back after you spend $1,000's on paint and bodywork. Epoxy primer or etch primer will adhere better to clean metal. That's for the exterior of the car, the underside is much more forgiving

If you're working on your plumbing truck or firewood hauler, prime right over it.
 
i agree with risjea but you still need to etch it before you put paint on it for the rust is still in the poors even if you cant see it.
 
rjsjea said:
Sandblast it......I'm of the minority judging from the posts above, but rust will always be there if you dont remove it. I wouldn't risk it coming back after you spend $1,000's on paint and bodywork. Epoxy primer or etch primer will adhere better to clean metal. That's for the exterior of the car, the underside is much more forgiving

If you're working on your plumbing truck or firewood hauler, prime right over it.
Click to expand...

Sandblasting is the only correct way to do it. Leaving a little rust is like leaving a little cancer. It will come back.
 
wedgie said:
Sandblasting is the only correct way to do it. Leaving a little rust is like leaving a little cancer. It will come back.
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I have found that any of the modern rust treat ments works well, they convert the rust into a primer.

I was very impressed by these products, I sanded a piece last summer and had some ruct pitting on it, I treated it with a rust converter and forgot it outside When I found it last week the treated side was perfect and the untrested side was rusted again.

So I guess it works
 
There are several chemical rust removers but sandblasting is the best way, it gets it all and leaves the metal etched for the primer. Sandblast the jambs, corners, crevices, braces and the strong portions but don't sandblast the outer sheet metal without testing how to do it on a scrap fender or door, you can easily warp sheet metal. I turn the air pressure way down to do the sheet metal. Also strip the paint before you sand blast the sheet metal, a lot less chance of warpage, sandblasting will get it but why take chances.

As far as primer, epoxy is far superior to etching primer. Etching primer was the way to go 20 years ago but it is old technology and there is no comparison when it comes to durability and sealing the metal from the elements.
 
rjsjea said:
Sandblast it......I'm of the minority judging from the posts above, but rust will always be there if you dont remove it. I wouldn't risk it coming back after you spend $1,000's on paint and bodywork. Epoxy primer or etch primer will adhere better to clean metal. That's for the exterior of the car, the underside is much more forgiving

If you're working on your plumbing truck or firewood hauler, prime right over it.
Click to expand...


Yup. If you don't take care of it now, it will always be there. Oxidation will continue and you'll have little bubbles in your paint popping through in a year or so. Blast it clean, DA it with something on the par of 80 grit, then etch it. Etching blasted metal without "smoothing" it out just causes more rust. Epoxy primer or urethane prime afterwards as you see fit.

Personally, I moved away from epoxy a long time ago. Not doing any promoting for one specific brand, but when PPG's NCP 271 and 272 hit the market I gave up on epoxies. NCP is a urethane surfacer meant to be sprayed directly over bare. It kills two birds with one stone. Fills in any imperfections in the bare, like 80 grit DA scratches, and gives a rust hold out on bare metal. But if you like epoxy go with it.
 
I had a VW once that had a hood with rust spots all over it. Looked like maybe it had been towed behind a motorhome or something. Pitted & rusted pretty bad (but no holes all of the way through). I used some Duro Extend (I think that's the name. Paul Harvey used to advertise it) to kill the rust. About a year or so later I used paint stripper on the hood. The pits were still there of course, but all of the rust was gone. Just used spot putty on it & never had a problem.
 
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