SB bypass hose reconfigure

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dodgy

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I have looked at my latest small block project and decided to delete the factory bypass hose and run a smaller diameter hose from inlet manifold to radiator it would be through 3/8 npt to 8an fittings and hose, i still run the thermostat but will have all water going through the radiator instead of having a small amount bypassing. As it's a new build i can't say if or what temp it may run at but I'm sure it should run cool even without what i plan on doing with the bypass, i was just looking for any input as i may be overlooking something, and yes I'm aware that it probably won't be flowing much once the stat opens up however im from a pretty hot climate so any little help with cooling can't be a bad thing, just thinking outside the box, worth it or not.
 
I do not run a bypass. There is no place for one

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The one under the cap goes to the bottom of the overflow/return can . Then there is one coming off the top of overflow/return can going to a catch can behind the drivers headlight. Incase there is a coolant dump the catch can keeps it off the track

The other hose coming from the T-stat housing goes to the top of the radiator that is a air bleed to let air out of the rad when filling. A Nascar shop designed this system. We got the cover made and installed to move the pump back and were in the process of making a lower hose when the car was wrecked. The lower AN hose would not fit with the pump located forward where it was. The new car will be different due to the radiator now having a trans cooler built in plus the external coolers.

Once we had this new B-cool rad installed this motor never went over 170. It didn't matter how hard you ran it or how many back to back runs it made. Let it idle all day.



That is not this car idling. That is a drum cover for Van Halen "Hot for Teacher"

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Ok, thanks for the run down, always loved the start of that song.
 
I guess I assume that the factory engineers had the bypass there for a good reason....
 
I experimented with running a plug in the bypass ON A STOCK SYSTEM and could not see that it affected cooling. I've been told that it helps prevent hot spots especially on warm-up. I'm assuming that the stock pump has way way over capacity for volume. Also consider that unlike an oil pump, automotive water pumps are designed to 'slip" water
 
I modified a pipe nipple to install a temperature sensor for my EFI on the coolant bypass. Seems to work fine. I didn't have an extra port on my LD340 manifold and I elected not to drill a new hole in the manifold. This was a pretty easy mod. Rod

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I did away with the bypass hose & adapted the hole down to run a mechanical water temp gauge. My car is race only with a full fill of Harblok & I'm using a Moroso electic water pump.
 
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