SB intake gasket woes

-
Now, what gaskets are you trying to use, and what are their thinknesses? If it's not a huge gap that you're trying to fill, you might be able to get a thicker gasket set. I think you should be able to get them up to .060". How much thicker do you think it would need to be in order to fit the manifold the way you want?

all most all gaskets I found listed were either .060 or .065" But like I siad way earlier, He can buy a roll and cut the gaskets him self out of thickr paper
 

I worked at a parts store for several years and used to see people double up pper gaskets all of the time. I saw several come back with vacuum leaks. Some were just regular vacuum leaks that can cause lots of nice damage to the engine, and some were the fun kind where it's actually sucking oil from the lifter valley into the combustion chamber. The second one is usually easier to spot quickly. Lots of nice smoke.

Some people will do it, and some people won't. I prefer to not add additional variables that can add problems. It's not worth arguing about or pointing fingers. The big block setup is as designed by Chrysler. Paper to metal with appropriate sealer. Not paper to paper. I know that sealer was suggested, but like I said, I've seen enough failures to not try it myself, and to not recommend it.
 
If you have to double up the gaskets Monte's idea of the Fel-pro metal shim sandwiched between to paper gaskets sounds like the best idea. Gives both gaskets metal to seal to which they were designed for.

Like Monte said I have also found silicone sealer (gorilla snot included) does not work well on an intake port. Gasoline seems to turn it to jelly. On intake gaskets that require sealing that I have used I spray on copper coat type sealer that works great. Sorry but I can't remember the manufacturer but I know is was called copper coat and in a spray can. The old Indian head shelaq also works great.
 
I believe the copper coat is Permatex stuff but I dont kn ow about using it on paper.

Obviously no one is going to agree on this thread. I sure would at least try it before blowing money on a new intake.

Or you can all ways strip the motor down and mill the heads so the intake sits right. (j/K)
 
I agree with Adam, If money is short and you have the time to do it, Try the gaskets first. As far as taking short cuts and such.....I think we have all been there. I remember using a string to run my throttle though the side window to get home:) I think if it's done right and works then you saved a bunch of cash and learned something new. Jut my opinion though

p.s. I love that indian head permatex stuff. It sure makes it hard to get apart though. The copper spray just goes on so thin I don't think it would be a good choice for what your dealing with.
 
Gaskacinch would work in this application. http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_002.htm It might leak but then again, it might not. No dough is no dough. If I was low on cash and had to get to work I'd do it.

I've tied speaker wire to both sides of my wipers so I could get home in a rain storm before so I can relate.
 
Thats just what I said, You didnt assemble it.

Your absolutely right i don't assemble my motors,i don't have the space,tools or time to do it,thats why i have trusted professionals whom i know will do everything correctly do it,besides its much more fun racing them then building them..
 
I am running 2 intake gaskets per side on my 360. I used the red permatex between them and I have no leaks. I did let the gaskets set overnight before I installed them though. I have no idea if the ports are lined up prefectly as it is very hard to see in there. Reason for 2 gaskets was somebody decked the block to far and didn't tell anybody else. All is well now.

Jack
 
Here is the answer I got from Mopar. Not that this will be admitted by anyone" The tolerances from block to block and head to head are not precise. Combinations of blocks and heads and intakes create variables. This gap is not an issue especially in a performance application.
 
What the hell does that mean ? LOL, email them back and tell them its not running right because the gapping is causing an vacuum leak.
 
Here is the answer I got from Mopar. Not that this will be admitted by anyone" The tolerances from block to block and head to head are not precise. Combinations of blocks and heads and intakes create variables. This gap is not an issue especially in a performance application.

That answer does'nt surprise me one bit!!!
 
-
Back
Top Bottom