Mine varies between 75 to about 90 degrees top to bottom depending on the ambient temperature. It's aluminum as well.
Mild 340 build runs hot
- Thread starter John Trickler
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
Mine is 180* at the thermostat housing, - 112* at bottom rad hose fitting .
Perhaps the diameter of your radiator hose with An fittings restricting the gpm? Nice headers though!
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John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Okay, just got in from doing a few things to the car. It has a radiator that the core is 24"x17", 2 row, inch or 1 1/4" tubes. Water does circulate through when the thermostat opens. The water temp reading on the EFI readout matches the heat gun reading on the brass of the sending unit. Even though I have driven the car multiple times, up to 10 miles at a time, today when i had the cap off, the water level was lower, I added a little over a quart. Did not make a difference on the temp. I had a box fan running in front of the car and the fans kicked on. The fans come on at 205. I think I will pull the intake and check for blockage tomorrow. Emailed CVF and this is the only water pump they offer. I did redo some of my ignition today and set the initial timing at 14 degrees with 34 degrees total. AFR is set at 14:0 The friend that is helping me and I think there is a restriction somewhere and at this point do not believe it is in the radiator or cooling system in front of the engine. Long winded and not full of temp particulars.
Before you pull the intake, why not pressure test the unit? Most parts stores will lend you the pump and gauge set up. I had a 289 that had similar issues and it would froth the coolant with no pressure loss, then heat up. I thought the water pump assembly was suspect, but sold the sedan delivery.
definitely only goes on one way
same gasket mirrored
NOW alignment pins might prevent the gasket from being on backwards
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
You don't need a fan shroud if you have a big enough window of radiator and a fan close enough to it
TXOval
340 stroked to 416
I would have your fans come on early and in stages.
1st fan on at 185, off at 183
2nd fan on at 190, off at 188
1st fan on at 185, off at 183
2nd fan on at 190, off at 188
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought when I put the heads on a couple of years ago. Didn't think you could get it wrong. If I do get that far, what head Gaskets does the group like? I believe I used FelPro, but I have no idea which number.
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Fans are controlled by the EFI, I can set on temp. With a 180 Thermostat, why have it on so early? Just asking.
TXOval
340 stroked to 416
My logic is probably wrong…but with a mechanical fixed fan it’s always running.
If your fans come on 25F degrees after the thermostat starts opening it will be hard for them to recover.
It is also an easy/free change to see how it responds.
If your fans come on 25F degrees after the thermostat starts opening it will be hard for them to recover.
It is also an easy/free change to see how it responds.
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IMHO.
The fans should start at slightly above what the engine wants to run at.
Say you have ab180 thermostat but the engine will run down the highway at 190 all day long. Set it to 195.
That way they are not on at freeway speeds but will kick on when you get off the highway and hit a light. If the SYSTEM is sized correctly the fans should pull the temp down to 190 in under a minute so have them turn off at 185 or 190.
You play and figure what works best for you.
The fans should start at slightly above what the engine wants to run at.
Say you have ab180 thermostat but the engine will run down the highway at 190 all day long. Set it to 195.
That way they are not on at freeway speeds but will kick on when you get off the highway and hit a light. If the SYSTEM is sized correctly the fans should pull the temp down to 190 in under a minute so have them turn off at 185 or 190.
You play and figure what works best for you.
1st thing you got no shroud, 2nd you got the bare minimum for fan cfm 2500-4500 cfm is recommended for V8's, 3rd looks like a pretty thick rad especially for 2500 cfm fans, 4th there a fair bit where the fans don't cover.
Does it work fine on the highway (continuous driving where fans are not needed) ?
Page 3 and yall are still pullin teeth. phug all that.
Lol you're still looking at it. Morbid curiosity?
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Did we ever get rad inlet/outlet temps, or are we going for a record 130+ posts .
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I may be way off base here, but I fixed some overheating issues on a couple SB chevys by installing a spring in the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing. On one of the engines, I could barely see the radiator hose collapsing, but it was and the spring fixed the issue. They all used to come with a spring, not anymore. Just a thought before you take it apart.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
The hose only collapses when you rev the engine up, creating the low pressure in the pump to suck it closed. Let off the gas. it opens NOW.
It was sheer luck I was looking at the hose as I revved the engine, the first time I experienced it.
Was a hearse that couldn't return down the hiway with the procession cuz it overheated at speed.
Lotta people scratched their heads before we got it.
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John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Have thought of that, it has the stiff flex hose on it so it's not collapsing.
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Entertainment factor.
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Yes I know there's no shroud, but the two 1500 CFM fans cover almost the complete opening in the core support. And yes going down the road it runs 220°.
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