Scaling a stock suspension car.

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If you are having to go to full throttle slowly, then that is why you don't have that much rise in the rear, or front.
Heims joint upper control arms and strut rod will loosen up the front end a lot! compared to the stock ones. Then i would install a urethane bushing in the lower control arm.
this will allow your front end to rise much quicker(with the same shock setting). planting the rear tire much quicker. This also would be a good time to add some /6 torsion bars while there out. if you don't have them already.

By adding weight to the rear end, might make you faster because you can get to full throttle quicker.

With my cheeter slick(old school bias ply tire with a tread compound slick recapped on it), by adding some weight in the trunk i pick up 3 tenths( this also was with some torsion bar staggering to make it leave straight.)

just some thoughts.
 
The tire on the right is the one that i was trying to get to hook in the first video.
Hmm ok the bottom of the picture. Vary hard sidewall and thread. They ware like iron. but don't hook for crap!!!:BangHead::D

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Car has homemade roller bearing's in the stock upper and lower control arms. Stock struts, heims are not legal. /6 bars are installed.
 
Here is a couple of links that talk about leaf spring cars that might help.


 
Frequently, . Standard 6 cyl T--Bars are Still too strong.....Carefully OD Turned down (lathe turned) another 0.030'" --0.060'. Or Acid dipped helps Tremendously & Very Stealthy !! Use the most wore out Weakest shocks (even drained) Non--functional you can find Front & Back.
 
Grease lubricate Everything in front suspension...Get a pair of Mopar 002 & 003 S/S springs,. Dissemble & mix in stack some stock leaves (add more thick front 1/2 leafs to get some just barely rear body rise on launch ..When it's Right, .... functional shocks just mess the traction up...Your passenger side spring stack Will be a few leaks more than drivers..
 
After you get your Modified 002 S/S springs packs & Reduced/weakened T--Bars & Fake, Non--functional Shocks on,...Then you can final twerk the side for side Scale/height settings tweeked if needed by then....You Should have an Equal Non--squating Rear body & 3"+ front bumper rise on launch.....You could Alum alloy Every steel screw & bolt fastener, Stealth improve Everything & if too light,...Double up rear package Tray & fill 1" Void with Lead....
 
Mine is no lightweight. All steel, all roll up glass windows 3760 lbs street /strip E Body. With Caltracs and split mono leafs with me in the car, full race weight, anti roll bar with no preload with me in and Caltracs set with the appropriate amount of preload for my car. I have gotten it as close as possible from side to side, front bias is actually good at 54% with higher horsepower cars. Helps keep it from power wheelieing as easily.

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The day he puts weight in that car is the day hell freezes over! Last race he actually commented on finding aluminum key blanks. Was he kidding? probably. if he found some would he change over………….? The small blocks don’t have the “extra” power the BB’s and Hemi’s have so efficiency is the goal. You can run a adjustable race shock in the class. You’re supposed to paint them black, but I couldn’t bring myself to paint mine. There are no electronic controls in that car or any data logging. The launch is all him and I believe he’s by far the quickest car without a programmable box. When we are done racing for the day and he’s fed and has a beer in his hand he is pretty talkative. I almost fell out of my chair when he told me about the custom tapered bearings he built for the control arms. :)
 
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