Scat cast crankshaft

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I’ve put 14 pounds on a stock magnum crank and it held up just fine. Your results may vary. If it’s an engine you care about and want to last a long time spend the money now and buy a forged crank.
 
I don't know a lot about boost but I wouldn't want to boost a stroker. I'd have to ask a buddy who tractor/truck pulls.
 
toolmanmike said:
I don't know a lot about boost but I wouldn't want to boost a stroker. I'd have to ask a buddy who tractor/truck pulls.
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Not criticizing you but why? Anything you do to make more power NA is better under boost. More cubic=inches more torque sooner.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Not criticizing you but why? Anything you do to make more power NA is better under boost. More cubic=inches more torque sooner.
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The theory is that strokers put more stress on the main webbing in the block so adding boost just magnifies the chances of failure.

On the other hand strokers tend to have less TDC piston dwell making them less prone to detonation.
 
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stormydart said:
Will a cast crankshaft handle about 10-12 of boost or should I go with the forged one. Thanks
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If I was working with a budget I’d use a stock magnum crank. They have been proven to handle significant power in turbo applications(700+). Otherwise I agree forged is best. If it comes down to money, spend your money on a good set of forged pistons first.

And 10-12psi could be 400-800hp depending on the rest of the build and turbo so you may want to list a power goal for a better answer.
 
turbovan said:
The theory is that strokers put more stress on the main webbing in the block so adding boost just magnifies the chances of failure.

On the other hand strokers tend to have less TDC piston dwell making them less prone to detonation.
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I would agree with that, kind of. My argument would be, any time you make more power you put more stress on the webbing of the block. Boost is just cylinder pressure and should be seen as such. Nothing more. You don’t hear arguments of “compression puts more stress on the webbing of strokers”.
 
I vote forged, build it right the first time, that way if you want more boost later you won't have to rebuild it again later.
 
stormydart said:
I was looking at rotating assemblies. Which is better scat or eagle. Thanks
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Do they have something with the the exact compression you require for your setup?

If you are building a 12-14" turbo motor you should have a real close idea of your plan for the whole motor (cam, head w/flow#, intake, induction, etc) before you buy a rotating assembly.
 
stormydart said:
Will a cast crankshaft handle about 10-12 of boost or should I go with the forged one. Thanks
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At that amount of boost your just rolling the dice on a cast crank. Basically you've pulled the pin out of the grande and the only thing holding the handle down is a piece of Scotch tape. It's going let loose at some point, but you just won't know when. It really is matter of how long you want it to last and the budget you have to make it last.

stormydart said:
Should I go stroker or standard?
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Depends on the end game. If you're buying all aftermarket rotating assembly they all cost the same.

What compression ratio are you intending to build? Because this is a major issue when it comes to getting an off the shelf piston that will work in ratio lower than 9 to 1.

Anything lower and your looking at a custom made blower piston set which start in the $1800 range and up depending on what you want, or need.

There are several other areas that require attention if you really intend to bang on it as well.

You didn't mention if this is a 340 or a 360 this also has significance in what is available crankshaft wise and what connecting rods you can run.

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
At that amount of boost your just rolling the dice on a cast crank. Basically you've pulled the pin out of the grande and the only thing holding the handle down is a piece of Scotch tape. It's going let loose at some point, but you just won't know when. It really is matter of how long you want it to last and the budget you have to make it last.



Depends on the end game. If you're buying all aftermarket rotating assembly they all cost the same.

What compression ratio are you intending to build? Because this is a major issue when it comes to getting an off the shelf piston that will work in ratio lower than 9 to 1.

Anything lower and your looking at a custom made blower piston set which start in the $1800 range and up depending on what you want, or need.

There are several other areas that require attention if you really intend to bang on it as well.

You didn't mention if this is a 340 or a 360 this also has significance in what is available crankshaft wise and what connecting rods you can run.

Tom
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Thanks for the reply. The engine is a 360 magnum still in the planning phase. This is a street strip car mostly street. I have a set of Edelbrock heads for a magnum engine. Would like to stay with pump gas. What compression should I be looking at. Thanks again
 
What's the HP goals and performance? I know you said 10-12 lbs boost, but to what HP. I get the street strip , that's how I built mine its just slightly street legal, and I had the magnum heads with the Hughes pedal stool mount rockers. But I'm also on a aftermarket block but I did go stroker to help reach my HP goals. I would also go with boost designed pistons the ring lands are better designed and usually thicker to handle the boost.
 
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stormydart said:
Would like to stay with pump gas.
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stormydart said:
I would like to see about 600 to 700.
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You are going to be very hard pressed to hit 600-700 on pump gas at 12-14 psi. You better have a damn good intercooler and have an excellent understanding of timing control. I may go as far as saying you won’t get there, unless you use pump E85.
 
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