Schumacher motor mount installation

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trudysduster

trudysduster

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Has anyone installed the BB Schumacher conversion motor mounts. I am getting ready to put them in and I am wondering if it is absolutely necessary to cut the ears on the perch and drill the holes as it says in the instructions. I have only looked at this and have not tried it yet but it says it is necessary to make room for an oil pump. From what I am looking at they should just bolt up and sit just like the factory ones. maybe I am missing something here but need some input. This will probably mean pulling the engine and tranny out to do this. any help would be appreciated.
 
trudysduster said:
Has anyone installed the BB Schumacher conversion motor mounts. I am getting ready to put them in and I am wondering if it is absolutely necessary to cut the ears on the perch and drill the holes as it says in the instructions. I have only looked at this and have not tried it yet but it says it is necessary to make room for an oil pump. From what I am looking at they should just bolt up and sit just like the factory ones. maybe I am missing something here but need some input. This will probably mean pulling the engine and tranny out to do this. any help would be appreciated.
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Slant 6 K Or V8 K?
 
Considering the fella (A real MoPar guy by the way) who did the research and development as well as test fitting the product he sells, I'd follow the instructions. I have used his swap mounts 4 times with ease and success.

I have done the /6 - SB twice
SB - BB
/6 - BB

Each time the instructions were bang dead on.
More oil pump clearance is always a plus. Your already there with the cutting tool. An extra little bit isn't going to hurt.
 
dukeboy, it is a 440. Rob, I didn't know according to the instructions if they were talking about a stock pump. It referred to Melling and high volume pumps. Didn't know if stock pump would clear or not. But, I got to thinking that it is going to have to come out because looking at the left side vs. right side, right side sits lower. That is probably to mate up with the 11/16 lower holes on the driver side to keep engine level. Guess I am just going to have to do it again, unless I can get the motor high enough to get my little drill in there. But doubt it. That is why I was asking to see if anyone has done it with the engine still in the car. Maybe give me some pointers. Thanks
 
trudysduster said:
dukeboy, it is a 440. Rob, I didn't know according to the instructions if they were talking about a stock pump. It referred to Melling and high volume pumps. Didn't know if stock pump would clear or not. But, I got to thinking that it is going to have to come out because looking at the left side vs. right side, right side sits lower. That is probably to mate up with the 11/16 lower holes on the driver side to keep engine level. Guess I am just going to have to do it again, unless I can get the motor high enough to get my little drill in there. But doubt it. That is why I was asking to see if anyone has done it with the engine still in the car. Maybe give me some pointers. Thanks
Click to expand...

I know that, I'm asking which K frame you are trying to put both the 440 and the mounts in. The V8 and Slant 6 swap mounts are different and there's been a rash of people getting the wrong ones sent to them lately. And one requires more cutting and drilling than the other. So I was just wondering if you had gotten shipped the wrong ones
 
sorry, looked back at your earlier question and didn't read it right. It is the v8 k frame. The 440 has been in the car for 14 years. Just recently found out that with the factory mounts the engine has been in there crooked all this time. As much as I hate to do it, getting it ready to come out now. Looking at it, pulling it is the only way to do it right.
 
Take a picture of the K-member BEFORE you cut anything. It is possible that you have a Direct Connection K-member in the car already. The Schumacher mounts will NOT work with one.
 
Yes I had to with my /6-rb conversion mounts. I also wish I had grinded out a little more as the clearance is very tight! Instructions were dead on, however I used a high volume pump and only widened my grinds very slightly
 
trudysduster said:
what is the difference that they will not work. what is different with them.
Click to expand...

the DC k frame is set up to use C body big block mounts and the k frame mounting ears are in to that.
 
engine came out today. Cut the ears and drilled the holes for the Schumachers to go in. Had a set back but will be for the best. I found the cheap timing cover that was put on a long time ago has been leaking a little so I am going to find a factory cover and put it on first. also pulled the damper pulley off and getting ready for the new one. All went well except for the back bolt on the exhaust manifold would not come off. had to cut the exhaust pipe to get the engine out. I don't know what that bolt was made of but it would not loosen up. Also started doing some body work getting ready for paint next weekend. Here are some pics of the k frame with the upgrade.
 

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I am going through this right now, note the drivers side header you want to put on before dropping it in also the #5 plug to save a lot of headaches.
 
don't have headers on this engine. # 5 plug will be in the engine before she goes back in. Thanks
 
I like the kit a lot I am just having a bit clearance problems with the drivers header, I wrapped them with heat tape and that is part of it.
 
I had to cut the ears on mine as well. I used schumacher Tri-y's and they are pretty awesome. They fit real nice and snug.

Oh and I can reach all my spark plugs...
 
DK, any chance you can get a pic of the drivers side tri y where the coupler is for me? I wrapped the headers with heat shield and am pretty sure I need to take it off there, other wise the kit is fantastic!
Thanks, Ray
 
got them Schumachers on. Have plenty of room. just waiting to get this car painted again, maybe this weekend if the paint booth opens up and we will set it down in the car and see how it works out.
 

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That's what I am doing for a torque strap!!! Those mounts don't look like mine though.
 
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