SCRAPIN & PANKAKIN - Lowering Rear SUSPENsion Ideas 76 Dart Sedan

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Ferdinandbites

Ferdinandbites

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I have a 76 Dart Sedan 4 Door 318. I've already lowered the front end as low as it can go and love it. Easy, just unloosened the torsion bar bolts which lowered the control arm. Kinda want to do the same for the rear (leaf springs). My idea was to move the diff to the top of the leaf springs. That would give me 4-5 inches and I'm good with that. I know the driveshaft angle would change a bit. I will check if there is enough room to do so. Looks like a pain to replace the springs with new. I'll probably be able to remove the one side of springs to re/re the diff. I wonder if there's some kinda kit to raise the diff off the springs? What do you think, good, bad, ugly?
 
Holly cow batman if your dropping it that much IMO there's not spring left in the torsion bars the rest is just plain bad and UGLY again IMO
 
vitamindart said:
pretty sure the axle is already on the top of the springs....... get some lowering blocks and longer u bolts.
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Ouuuuuu, genius, that's exactly the amount of work I want to do for this and I could always change it back if I don't like it and easier. fantastic, vitamindart thank you!
 
Ferdinandbites said:
In the rear spring?
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He's saying that with the front that low, there's probably not a lot of room left before the control arms hit the bump stops. Meaning you're going to bottom out a lot when you hit bump and dips. Stiffer/larger torsion bars would help. The stock ones are pretty soft, stiffer ones won't let the car bounce as much and should keep you off the bump stops ;)

BTW: I'd make VERY sure your bump stops are there. When running suspension outside the stock settings, there's all kinds of things that change. The shocks can bottom out internally and stress or punch through the shock tower. The shock towers on these cars isn't built strong enough to take a full hit of the suspension bottoming out. If you're just cruising for fun and REALLY careful about hitting things hard enough to bottom you should be OK. But if you daily drive it, or don't want to creep over every hump I'd suggest ensuring the setup is adequate for the ride height.
 
Phreakish said:
He's saying that with the front that low, there's probably not a lot of room left before the control arms hit the bump stops. Meaning you're going to bottom out a lot when you hit bump and dips. Stiffer/larger torsion bars would help. The stock ones are pretty soft, stiffer ones won't let the car bounce as much and should keep you off the bump stops ;)

BTW: I'd make VERY sure your bump stops are there. When running suspension outside the stock settings, there's all kinds of things that change. The shocks can bottom out internally and stress or punch through the shock tower. The shock towers on these cars isn't built strong enough to take a full hit of the suspension bottoming out. If you're just cruising for fun and REALLY careful about hitting things hard enough to bottom you should be OK. But if you daily drive it, or don't want to creep over every hump I'd suggest ensuring the setup is adequate for the ride height.
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ok, got it, thank you. Not a daily ride and I take care over bumps because its MINT, lol, I crack myself up.
 
You can use the two setting front spring hangars also, easy to install and easy to change back to stock height. got mine from AR Engineering but i think Mancini has then too.
 
pauly v.100 said:
You can use the two setting front spring hangars also, easy to install and easy to change back to stock height. got mine from AR Engineering but i think Mancini has then too.
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Not too sure what u r talking about. Looked at some pictures and it looks like that would raise the height? Maybe a link to a picture would help me to understand how this works.
 
Like these. Top hole for lower height, bottom hole for 'stock'.
AR013.jpeg
 
Phreakish said:
You can often find them at local auto stores, online at summit and jegs. Most any speed shop will have something.
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Phreakish said:
Like these. Top hole for lower height, bottom hole for 'stock'.
AR013.jpeg
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thanks, alright, I get it. the lower hole would be close to stock, the upper what would lower the diff. doesn't seem like it could lower it that much, what, an inch or two? I was thinking closer to 4. that also looks like something from the inside of vehicle would have to be re/re for the studs? I have to look at my dart now.
thank you
 
got any truck 4 x 4 stores there in your neck of the woods . they are lift kits for 4 x 4 pick ups . put the block on the top of the spring than the r/e on top of that , lowered to your desire drop . and those blocks are tappered one end to the other for drive line angle as well .
 
It won't lower it as much as a lowering block, but you REALLY don't want a 5" lowering block.

I'd look for a suspension place nearby that can 're-arch' your springs and get you close. Then fine tune with a lowering block.

I've got the two-hole hanger and springs that are near a zero arch at rest. Car sits pretty nicely I think.
DART.png
 
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I lowered my car a bit. Then I spent a day fixing the camber pattern, so my tires wouldn't wear out and the car stopped darting at every little surface change.
But if you are only driving it back and forth to the beer-store, I guess you won't be needing to worry about stuff like that.
 
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