searching for hei wisdom

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madd

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Alright guys, Paul here again. I believe I now have every thing I need to eliminate the spark control computer and replace it with an Hei ignition.
Quick recap; 1981 d150 slant six four speed. 110k with an unknown history. Runs good. I want it to run better. So I researched eliminating the spark control electronic ignition and replacing it with a GM HEI set up.
OK, looks simple. Found lots of information, great diagrams and a great video on YouTube where a guy kind of shows the swap. Bought GM Hei ignition kit(coil, wiring and module), vacuum advance distributor, spark plug gapper, tachometer and timing light. Of course having all appropriate hand tools and wiring instructions. Also plenty of wires, connectors, heat shrink etc.
Still have a few concerns
Do I need to put a relay in this system?
What do I set the timing to?


And lastly, I am extremely nervous about this. This is my only transportation and I need this done in one day and don't have any experience pulling a distributor, or doing anything with timing. I am searching for more knowledge and information about this. I am very confident I can do this but have no physical guidance.lots of access to information but no Mopar guys and definitely not slant guys. Please be so kind to offer me what information you can. Thank you all way in advance.
If it weren't for you all giving me enough hope to purchase this truck and try this, I wouldn't be here or have this truck.
 
Hmmm... good help is available here but sounds like you're asking for trouble. Getting to work is more important than upgrading your ignition. Plan it so you're not in trouble if you don't get it right in one day.
 
Hmmm... good help is available here but sounds like you're asking for trouble. Getting to work is more important than upgrading your ignition. Plan it so you're not in trouble if you don't get it right in one day.

This is very true. I am trying to do some good planning and hopefully have an experienced mechanic with me. I am trying my best to lay it out to where I can run into as few issues as possible. I know there will be problems and am trying to think ahead. I know I can do it just trying to do it is gonna be difficult.
 
relay is not must if you have good wiring but its always +. Mine main broblems with this upgade was in distributor pickup, so remember to twist wires and check distributors magnetic reclutors gap.

I used timing ligth on first cylinder to check signal by connecting timing lights wires so I can see if I get spark on cranking
 
Definitely don't want to be stranded. Have you talked to your mngr to see if you can swap your days off around in a manner to have 2 in a row for some cushion so to speak?
 
Yes seen article. And Chuck is right on with that
 
Under the circumstances I would like to offer a course of action if I may.

1. Mark where the distributor vac canister is in relation to the engine block.

2. Also note where the rotor points. (right headlight, wiper motor, radiator hose, whatever)

3. Pull the old distributor out.
(Do NOT turn the engine over with the distributor out)

4. Mount the ECU (the part mounted to the aluminum) to a grounded
surface. (firewall, inner fender)
5. Connect the two bare ended wires that are twisted together to your new distributor. (before you put the distributor in)
6. Connect the single red wire from the coil to your existing + wire that currently goes to your old coil.

7. Put the coil wire that would go to the distributor cap next to a grounded surface, turn your ignition switch on and spin the distributor by hand. (You should have a nice hot spark)

8. set your new distributor in the engine with the vac canister lined up about where the other canister did, and the rotor pointing at the same place it did before.

9. put your distributor cap on and put the new coil wire in the center hole.

The engine should fire up.

NOW you can start disconnecting the old ignition stuff and cleaning up any of the old wires.

Doing it this way will allow you to be running off the new system before you take the ols stuff apart.
 
Under the circumstances I would like to offer a course of action if I may.

1. Mark where the distributor vac canister is in relation to the engine block.

2. Also note where the rotor points. (right headlight, wiper motor, radiator hose, whatever)

3. Pull the old distributor out.
(Do NOT turn the engine over with the distributor out)

4. Mount the ECU (the part mounted to the aluminum) to a grounded
surface. (firewall, inner fender)
5. Connect the two bare ended wires that are twisted together to your new distributor. (before you put the distributor in)
6. Connect the single red wire from the coil to your existing + wire that currently goes to your old coil.

7. Put the coil wire that would go to the distributor cap next to a grounded surface, turn your ignition switch on and spin the distributor by hand. (You should have a nice hot spark)

8. set your new distributor in the engine with the vac canister lined up about where the other canister did, and the rotor pointing at the same place it did before.

9. put your distributor cap on and put the new coil wire in the center hole.

The engine should fire up.

NOW you can start disconnecting the old ignition stuff and cleaning up any of the old wires.

Doing it this way will allow you to be running off the new system before you take the ols stuff apart.

Excellent idea!
 
Before starting, verify that your distributor has 2 wires from the pickup to a double-bullet connector. I am not familiar with 1981 D150 trucks. I know that some later 80's engines used a different Hall-effect pickup with 3 wires. It requires a 5 V supply and puts out a different type of signal, so won't work with the HEI module. If you have that, you will need an earlier electronic distributor.
 
You lost me.... Never heard of said dizzy?

It's not said dizzy.
It's how you normally would put in a distributor.
Number 1 cyclinder at top dead center and rotor pointing at the number one plug wire.

Sorry, the way I worded it was kind of weird.
 
Its a shame your not closer. A few hiccups I had was I had the two wires going from the module to the dizzy switched (runs rough that way). After redoing my engine compartment I didn't want to mount anything to my inner fender so I mounted it to the shock tower and didn't get a good ground so I ran a ground wire from my module to body ground. If the dizzy is a two wire with vac advanced should even need to pull the dizzy out but I've seen that ignition setup like yours in a van. I used one for a 75 duster (I think).
 
Its a shame your not closer. A few hiccups I had was I had the two wires going from the module to the dizzy switched (runs rough that way). After redoing my engine compartment I didn't want to mount anything to my inner fender so I mounted it to the shock tower and didn't get a good ground so I ran a ground wire from my module to body ground. If the dizzy is a two wire with vac advanced should even need to pull the dizzy out but I've seen that ignition setup like yours in a van. I used one for a 75 duster (I think).

He is getting a two wire electronic distributor, and he has (or should have) the directions that went with the kit about the reluctor wires being switched, and the the importance of the module ground.
 
................. I had the two wires going from the module to the dizzy switched (runs rough that way). ................


Actually switching pickup wires does a lot worse than "runs rough." It completely screws up "rotor phasing", which you can Google.
 
Actually switching pickup wires does a lot worse than "runs rough." It completely screws up "rotor phasing", which you can Google.

I Googled it, and it didn't change a thing.
I actually had to switch the wires myself. :D

Sorry Del, I had to. :)
 
It's not said dizzy.
It's how you normally would put in a distributor.
Number 1 cyclinder at top dead center and rotor pointing at the number one plug wire.

Sorry, the way I worded it was kind of weird.

Oh ok. That makes a lot more sense! Rofl
 
He is getting a two wire electronic distributor, and he has (or should have) the directions that went with the kit about the reluctor wires being switched, and the the importance of the module ground.

umm switching to a single pickup vacuum dizzy
 
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