Setting the timing on a 69 318

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Maybe he should look at how much and when his total mechanical comes in and go from there?
What bugs me is the pinging when it's set at zero.
Something's up there.
 
Maybe he should look at how much and when his total mechanical comes in and go from there?
What bugs me is the pinging when it's set at zero.
Something's up there.
I agree. Kindof back to what 67Dart273 and a couple others posted.

Based on my on experiences, it may be a Mallory built MP distributor.
 
Mopar performance distributor
Take off the rotor. If the distributor shaft is bronze, then its probably the Mallory built version. (The FBO plate does not work on that mechanism, the slots are internally adjustable.)

With some patience and careful repeated testing, you can probably get a curve out of it that will work with your 318. Those MP distributors are intended for hopped up engines which don't the low rpm combustion efficiency a teen has. That's why they advance so fast in the lower rpm range.

Post up what the situation is and I can get you started on a recurve.
 
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FYI. We took a look into the original specs. Initial timing in the '69 Dodge FSM is 0* while '69 Plymouth is 5* ATC. Same distributor, just a different initial. Both companies expected their techs to adjust as much 5* from spec depending on quality of fuel etc. You've got a different distributor, just posting to help explain why you saw a different specification in a book.
 
Maybe he should look at how much and when his total mechanical comes in and go from there?
What bugs me is the pinging when it's set at zero.
Something's up there.
When I said that it pinged it only did it slightly when I climbed a hill. Like I said before I have another car that I drive it is a 67 and it has a stroker 408 in it the difference so far between those two motors is night and day the 318 is a dog compared to the 408 and maybe it’s because I don’t have the 318 set up right either it just doesn’t seem like it wants to whind up that’s the best way I can describe it. I will try to get some time this weekend and investigate the distributor and report back. Like I said before you will have to instruct me on this task I am a rookie when it comes to this. Never done it before because I don’t understand it. Just saying
Thanks
Pat
 
When I said that it pinged it only did it slightly when I climbed a hill. Like I said before I have another car that I drive it is a 67 and it has a stroker 408 in it the difference so far between those two motors is night and day the 318 is a dog compared to the 408 and maybe it’s because I don’t have the 318 set up right either it just doesn’t seem like it wants to whind up that’s the best way I can describe it. I will try to get some time this weekend and investigate the distributor and report back. Like I said before you will have to instruct me on this task I am a rookie when it comes to this. Never done it before because I don’t understand it. Just saying
Thanks
Pat

Then under these circumstances I think I would start at about 8-10 BTDC and see how it acts.
Be careful about listening for preignition after about 2,500 and if it starts doing it back off and look into limiting the total mechanical advance.
BTW, there is no comparison between a 318 and a 408 so don't expect the 318 to come anywhere near it.
Do you know if the distributor has an adjustable vac can on it?
a 3/32 allen wrench inside the vac port on the can.
 
Its hard to instruct not knowing whether you need help with a task or how to approach the problem. Pulling from the suggestions in this thread, here's what may work for you. Pick the tasks that are most doable first, which is probably the easiest way for you.
  1. Is there anything not stock about the engine other than an overbore? Is the cam stock for '69?
  2. Take the cap and rotor off the distributor and see what color the shaft is; steel gray or yellow bronze. Reinstall. Post back answer to these two questions.
  3. Verify timing mark: When timing mark is at TDC, #1 piston must be at the top of the stroke. Can check this thread out Ignition Timing is way off
  4. Plug vac advance hose from carburetor to distributor. Read the timing at normal idle. Note the exact rpm. If you don't have a tach, get one. Unused Tach/Dwell meters are pretty easy to find collecting dust.
  5. If possible, increase rpm and note the timing. Repeat until its off the scale. (with a dial back and a tach that reads to 3000 or 4000 rpm you can keep going much higher, but whatever you can get will help).
  6. Take the car for a ride up the same hill. It may not ping with the vacuum advance disconnected. Try to repeat the throttle conditions it was at when it pinged.
Here's a little one pager from Chrysler on what the vacuum advance does.
Ignition System Analysis (Session 259) from the Master Technician's Service Conference
 
Then under these circumstances I think I would start at about 8-10 BTDC and see how it acts.
Be careful about listening for preignition after about 2,500 and if it starts doing it back off and look into limiting the total mechanical advance.
BTW, there is no comparison between a 318 and a 408 so don't expect the 318 to come anywhere near it.
Do you know if the distributor has an adjustable vac can on it?
a 3/32 allen wrench inside the vac port on the can.
Just wanted to give a report I reset the timing to 9 degrees BTDC and rechecked the all in with my dial back and it reads about 38 degrees when all in and test drove it no pinging thanks for all the help
Pat
 
Just wanted to give a report I reset the timing to 9 degrees BTDC and rechecked the all in with my dial back and it reads about 38 degrees when all in and test drove it no pinging thanks for all the help
Pat

Still bugs me because normally advancing the timing over the whole range would make it worse, so there is no real answer is to why it was doing it in the first place, but hey if you are happy so am I. :D
 
The low timing made the chamber rich and increased the chance for pinging. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

Started off stacking a rich idle all the way up.
 
Straight to the point. ..... if your using today's gas you'll need more advanced timing. Maybe around 12* initial and 36* @ 2800 rpm +/- total timing.
 
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