Setting up a 489 with Richmond gears

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Jadaharabi said:
Still waiting on a picture of one that is not cut in the center.
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I posted one in the last discussion about this, showing that the caps are NOT cut dead center. And no two cases seem to be exactly the same. I know people got all upset and argumentative, but I pointed it out because I had the SAME idea about going from the flat cap surface, until I did some measuring. It can get you close, but it's faster for me to use the proper tools, and I do it for a living, so speed and accuracy are paramount, but at the end of the day, your pattern is what will be the final say. Hope this helps clarify.
 
replicaracer43 said:
I posted one in the last discussion about this, showing that the caps are NOT cut dead center. And no two cases seem to be exactly the same. I know people got all upset and argumentative, but I pointed it out because I had the SAME idea about going from the flat cap surface, until I did some measuring. It can get you close, but it's faster for me to use the proper tools, and I do it for a living, so speed and accuracy are paramount, but at the end of the day, your pattern is what will be the final say. Hope this helps clarify.
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So true. Kim
 
Post 13 tells you how to adjust your measurement if you are unfortunate enough to not have a carrier that is divided in the middle.
If your housing is not cut in the center get a different housing that is or else compensate for it. You don't have to have $1,000 tool to set up a differential. Good grief.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Post 13 tells you how to adjust your measurement if you are unfortunate enough to not have a carrier that is divided in the middle.
If your housing is not cut in the center get a different housing that is or else compensate for it. You don't have to have $1,000 tool to set up a differential. Good grief.
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A parallel, a $50 depth micrometer from eBay and some math equations will get you in the ballpark.
 
Here is it pattern with a load on the carrier. It doesn’t look like the pattern shown in the instructions that came with the ring and pinion. Thoughts?

82AEA841-7278-47EE-B45B-72E12BB0D1C6.jpeg


375EFEDC-BFE8-4102-BE75-24019E56E075.jpeg


033BFB24-D35C-43FB-9F8B-4CA585F9219A.jpeg
 
DusterJoe410.4 said:
According to my math I was dead on at 2.763”
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I still think I would run that. In my limited experience you do not always get a pattern identical to those pictures.
But to me you have a similar good pattern on both sides.
Usually the best pattern is not to far off from that pinion depth etched on the gear, imho.
 
Ok, this I learned from a very old mechanic years ago. U see where the pattern is right on the end of the teeth. It shouldn’t be that close to the end. I would add at least a .010 shim to the pinion to move it back towards the crown. See what u get then. Kim
 
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