unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
Im not sure what there called but its the rubber pads that go in the shock plates. Its a 8 3/4 if that makes a difference but what I need to know what there called and whats the best place to get them?
shock plate pads?
- Thread starter unknownsnake
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unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
I got the rearend out of a c-body can I use the stock plates or do I need to find some a-body ones?
Dodge33
Well-Known Member
Those are isolater leaf spring pad's....... and they came on 73-74 B, and C-body car's. I have never seen them on the a-body car's of those year's. That 73-74 B and C body style had the two brackets with stud's that sqeezed the two pad's together to your leaf spring. You can update your housing to the earlier 72 and back style of u-bolt's, pads and regular shock plate's, but would require fab work too. Just my 2 cent's. Good luck.
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
Question is can I use what I have or do I have to change it over?
Dodge33
Well-Known Member
One question....... do you know what stock c-body rear spring width is? Does your car have the same spring width? It really need's to be the same, so there
is no movement in the rear end. I'm sending you a PM.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
isolator pack spring setups suck for any type of performance setup. they are designed to make the car soft riding, and a bit squishy. they allow the rear to wind up on hard accelleration. i dont recommend them for a performance car.
that being said i dont think the isolator setups were ever offered on the A body car line, if you are trying to fit this axle in an A body you are going to have to move the spring perch mounting inboard to fit the A body leaf spring width anyways. you will have to cut off the old perches from the C body axle tube.
go to jegs or summit, and get a set of mopar performance spring perches for 3" axle tube. brand new they are $16.00 so that hardly breaks the bank. you will still need 3" ubolts, and spring / shock plates for 3" axle tube.
unless you are looking for a specific pinion angle id recommend setting the perches and the rear end at the stock pinion angle the same as the rear end is thats currently in the car. a set of caltracs will prevent spring wrap up under hard accelleration. some guys want an additional 1 to 2 degrees down to counteract spring wrap up. if you find you need this additional degree down it can be had later on with shims between the perches and the spring pack.
i have a set of 3" ubolts that are used but sandblasted clean and come with the factory locking nuts. i can sell you these for $15.00. plus the ride. i have a spare set of the MP perches, but im narrowing another C axle that i may keep or sell after its done, so i need these.
you will still have to hunt down a set of shock plates. 67 to 72 C body should have them, as well as 67 to 72 B body. hunt your boneyards you may get lucky.
i got mine off a 68 fury lll sedan. got lucky and somebody got the axle from it, and left the plates in the trunk of the car. score and i didnt even have to use my floor jack or get dirty at the junkyard that day.
good luck on your venture, if you want the U bolts, just PM me
matt
that being said i dont think the isolator setups were ever offered on the A body car line, if you are trying to fit this axle in an A body you are going to have to move the spring perch mounting inboard to fit the A body leaf spring width anyways. you will have to cut off the old perches from the C body axle tube.
go to jegs or summit, and get a set of mopar performance spring perches for 3" axle tube. brand new they are $16.00 so that hardly breaks the bank. you will still need 3" ubolts, and spring / shock plates for 3" axle tube.
unless you are looking for a specific pinion angle id recommend setting the perches and the rear end at the stock pinion angle the same as the rear end is thats currently in the car. a set of caltracs will prevent spring wrap up under hard accelleration. some guys want an additional 1 to 2 degrees down to counteract spring wrap up. if you find you need this additional degree down it can be had later on with shims between the perches and the spring pack.
i have a set of 3" ubolts that are used but sandblasted clean and come with the factory locking nuts. i can sell you these for $15.00. plus the ride. i have a spare set of the MP perches, but im narrowing another C axle that i may keep or sell after its done, so i need these.
you will still have to hunt down a set of shock plates. 67 to 72 C body should have them, as well as 67 to 72 B body. hunt your boneyards you may get lucky.
i got mine off a 68 fury lll sedan. got lucky and somebody got the axle from it, and left the plates in the trunk of the car. score and i didnt even have to use my floor jack or get dirty at the junkyard that day.
good luck on your venture, if you want the U bolts, just PM me
matt
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Stock A-body brakes are 10x1 3/4(SBP) and I beleive C-body are 11x2 1/2 inch brakes (LBP)If your gonna swap axels to LBP,just mention that your using the 11x2 1/2 inch brakes.Parts for the 10x1 3/4 brakes are getting harder to find,so I,ve swapped all my backing plates and brakes to 10x2 1/2 for availability.The depth offset is different with Stock A-body backing plates.
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
I already narrowed the rear end to a-body specs put new perches on and I replaced axles to LBP moser axle. I also have the brakes already on the rear end with all new hardwear
Yes, use the C-body shock plates. Get the U-bolts too, if they are still salvagable, unless you want to buy new ones.
The C body shock plates for the Isolated suspension are going to have larger locating holes for the insulator pads if I recall correctly.
Yes, I believe so, but isn't it simple enough to weld a washer onto the C-body plates? That's what I used to do with the aftermarket spring perches.
Yup, I have used a piece black pipe nipple welded in the hole and ground off flush.
Yep, just depends on what you have access to. If you have a welder on hand and a washer or nipple piece to pop in there, then definitely. If you happen to find a pair in the boneyard on your way over to your buddies house who has the welder, then you can spend more time just drinking beer with your friends...
Did someone say BEER?
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
So I can weld some metal in the hole and they will work? Any pics?
I think it was a 3/8 black pipe nipple I used. Just cut a piece and set in the hole, weld it in and grind it smooth.
Check the measurements of the hole and the pin.
Check the measurements of the hole and the pin.
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
so weld hole closed and what I do about the rubber blocks?
What style perches were installed?
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
I will have to go look at them and snap some pictures. I hate not knowing what I am doingops::banghead::violent1:
ops::banghead::violent1:
Woods74
Broke Senior
I've got the exact same dilemma, shock plates off a mid 70's B body. Great post!
unknownsnake
Well-Known Member
pics
I hope you didn't reinstall those perches.
These, or something similar, are what should be put on if going into an A body.
These, or something similar, are what should be put on if going into an A body.
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