Should I go with the a833 conversion?

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HTMLmopars

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I just picked up an a833 OD out of a 77 Aspen wagon, I'm planning on swapping it into my automatic 318 powered 68 Valiant, but I'm not really sure if I can/should do the swap, I just couldn't say no to the deal I got on it, and I've never owned a manual car, and I want to have one. Are there any threads on here that have good info? Do any of y'all have good tips for doing this swap on a budget? I know its not gonna be cheap, but how reasonably can it be done?
 
Go for it, but do your home work first my friend! Unless you have a pile of parts to start with there's no such thing as a "cheap" 4-speed swap. You'll need floor hump, clutch kit flywheel (uless doner had that too with the transmission) all linkages for a body & bellhousing possible drive shaft length change. Possible transmission yoke. I know im forgetting a few pieces but those are the bigger ones that cost the most. I say go for it just know before hand what you need & what it will apx cost you.
 
Hipo65 said:
Go for it, but do your home work first my friend! Unless you have a pile of parts to start with there's no such thing as a "cheap" 4-speed swap. You'll need floor hump, clutch kit flywheel (uless doner had that too with the transmission) all linkages for a body & bellhousing possible drive shaft length change. Possible transmission yoke. I know im forgetting a few pieces but those are the bigger ones that cost the most. I say go for it just know before hand what you need & what it will apx cost you.
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Don't forget the pedals!
 
Thanks 65 Dartman, I knew iforget a few things! You'd think id be fresh since I did this not long ago! Carpet will also need replaced too!
 
Hipo65 said:
Carpet will also need replaced too!
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You are correct! That could be one of the more expensive things to replace since normally the rear is replaced at the same time as the front. The thing to remember is even the little things in conjunction with the major parts is gonna add up real quick!

I am doing the conversion in my wagon and even though I sourced the complete transmission and small parts from the donor, I wasn't going to use the old 9 in pressure plate/clutch so needed to buy and upgrade to a 10 inch pressure plate, clutch, and throw out bearing from Brewers. And as mentioned, carpet suited for a 4 speed. Yep, adds up pretty quick!
 
Do any of you know if the F-body driveshaft is the right length for my a body, I'm hoping I can go back to the junkyard and pull some more parts like the pedals and driveshaft from the Aspen. The trans was attached to a slant, so I need the bellhousing for that, and you guys say I need a new flywheel for the motor?
 
If your current 68 has a 904 transmission the shaft should be the correct length fot the 4-speed. But will need the yoke for the 4-speed put on it though. Yes you will need smallblock bell for a car & flywheel to match. None of the linkages from the slant 6 will work with v8 eather.
 
68Valiant225 said:
I'm hoping I can go back to the junkyard and pull some more parts like the pedals and driveshaft from the Aspen.
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The Aspen pedals will not fit your A body, but I'd pull them anyway as there are FMJ Guys who could use them to convert their cars to a stick.
 
With a little bit luck, and when the Pedal is mounted the same way, you don´t need to change the whole assembly.
Just change the old brake pedal and build in the new brake and clutch pedal. Its pretty easy to ´change that.
Maybe its a littlebit fuzzy to do that in the car , but works well.

The clutch pedal just goes through the Brakepedal.
 
DieWilde13 said:
With a little bit luck, and when the Pedal is mounted the same way, you don´t need to change the whole assembly.
Just change the old brake pedal and build in the new brake and clutch pedal. Its pretty easy to ´change that.
Maybe its a littlebit fuzzy to do that in the car , but works well.

The clutch pedal just goes through the Brakepedal.
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Sorry, not really following what you're saying 100%, although I like the sound of it. Are you saying the F-body pedals WILL work, or that the auto pedal assembly I have can be modified to work, or just how to do the swap?
Sorry again for my ignorance, I'm just a college kid trying to figure out what this Mopar thing is all about
 
Also, i grabbed the transmission crossmember off the aspen, figure it wouldn't hurt because the yard wasn't gonna charge me more for it if it was still attached to the trans. Is that any help to me or should I just sell it?
 
Hey, sorry i´m a german so i can´t explain it really good for you.
Maybe you can see it on this pic what i mean.

1969-dodge-dart-clutch-pedal-assembly.jpg


The left is the brake pedal for auto trans.
You can see that the manual pedal goes just right through the brake pedal!
Usually you can cut off the brake pedal and you just need the clutch pedal to get it work.
 
DieWilde13 said:
Hey, sorry i´m a german so i can´t explain it really good for you.

The left is the brake pedal for auto trans.
You can see that the manual pedal goes just right through the brake pedal!
Usually you can cut off the brake pedal and you just need the clutch pedal to get it work.
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Gotcha, so I need the manual brake pedal pad (is that what you'd call it?) and a clutch pedal
 
yes. if you find one on a yunkyard or so, go and get it.
Or ask here for a single pedal or a assembly.
I bet you get one here ;)
 
So I found this list on a b body forum, I trimmed it down as much as I could, leaving out console and other small things that I really don't care about at this point. I know that carpet needs to be redone, but I couldn't put new carpet in a car that sits outside in Washington, especially cause the car leaks like a sieve. Anyways, are there more things I can take off this list, things to add, input on the accuracy of the list? Thanks for all y'alls help so far
Clutch
- Bellhousing
- Offset dowels for bellhousing alignment, usually 0.007
- Pilot bushing for end of crank
- Clutch Assy (usually comes as set with pack and throw out bearing)
- Clutch fork
- Clutch fork boot
- Bellhousing fork pivot
- Torque shaft (Z-bar)
- Torque shaft service kit
- Flywheel w/bolts
- Clutch adjusting rod assembly (Rod, nuts, clips, grommet and spring)
- Steel dust cover with bolts
- Fork Spring
Transmission
- Transmission w/A-body tailshaft
- Shifter with rods, clips, etc.
- Shifter handle
- Transmission mount
Console/interior
- Console shifter boot
- Clutch rod Boot
Structural
- Clutch pedal assembly
- Clutch Pedal firewall stiffener bracket (goes through firewall)
- Floor tunnel (weld in)
- Frame ballstud bracket (weld in)
- Torque Shaft ball stud and nut
- Lower Shifter boot
 
if you have a 904 in it right now, the tranny mount should fit on the 833.
I converted 3 cars now. 2 abodys and one b body. All three didn´t need a different tranny mount
If you want to save the money on a Z-bar and all the linkage, you should consider a conversion to hydraulic clutch. Its really cheap and its a nice feeling in the clutch pedal!
I have a post here somewhere from my hydr. conversion in my old Dart.
 
DieWilde13 said:
if you have a 904 in it right now, the tranny mount should fit on the 833.
I converted 3 cars now. 2 abodys and one b body. All three didn´t need a different tranny mount
If you want to save the money on a Z-bar and all the linkage, you should consider a conversion to hydraulic clutch. Its really cheap and its a nice feeling in the clutch pedal!
I have a post here somewhere from my hydr. conversion in my old Dart.
Click to expand...
I didn't realize that a hydr clutch didn't need the z bar. Im actually looking at a wilwood pedal thats all included for around 200 bucks. SO you're saying with that I would only need that and no other linkages and whatnot for the clutch?
 
68Valiant225 said:
I didn't realize that a hydr clutch didn't need the z bar. Im actually looking at a wilwood pedal thats all included for around 200 bucks. SO you're saying with that I would only need that and no other linkages and whatnot for the clutch?
Click to expand...

As you can see in the thread and pictures or the videos.
You needf upper cylinder, lower cylinder and a line between them.
Add the upper cylinder to your pedal, the lower to the clutchfork.
You have to build a bracket for the bellhousing where you can mount the cylinder and thats it

 
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DieWilde13 said:
As you can see in the thread and pictures or the videos.
You needf upper cylinder, lower cylinder and a line between them.
Add the upper cylinder to your pedal, the lower to the clutchfork.
You have to build a bracket for the bellhousing where you can mount the cylinder and thats it
Click to expand...
So as long as i have the clutch fork in the bellhousing I won't need the z bar, the linkage, or the ballstud bracket, yeah?
 
68Valiant225 said:
So as long as i have the clutch fork in the bellhousing I won't need the z bar, the linkage, or the ballstud bracket, yeah?
Click to expand...

Yes thats correct.

No Z-Bar,
clutch pedal linkage
linkage to the fork

thats gone...

i will post a how to article when i find the time..
 
Does anyone know if the overdrive requires a different bellhousing than a regular 833? If so, what casting numbers are usable with my application?
 
Overdrive transmissions have a larger bearing. The bearing retainer is larger and won't fit into the bellhousing.
 
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