Shroud gap too much?

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Not to change the subject here, but looking at the picture of your engine compartment ( OP)...
Do you have any kind of heat shield for your master cylinder? If not I would think seriously about adding one... since you're header tubes look really close to the M.C. you don't want your brake fluid to boil, when trying to stop! Just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks for the concern. At present I am not looking at an M/C shield. The closest tube is 2" away from the tip of the M/C. I will temp gun check the surface of the M/C next time I have it at temp. Boiling point of Dot 4 is 450° wet. I don't know how long it takes brake fluid to absorb enough water to lower its boiling point to approximately 310°, but hope temps come in under that. Guess I could use a candy thermometer and just stick it in the reservoir.

Following up on post, I am still installing the new Hi flow W/P, T-stat and 223 fan. I messed up and pressure checked the first install while the sealant was still curing and had a minor leak at 15 PSI. :BangHead:
I resealed and will wait long enough this time. Will be ready to pressure check again this afternoon.
 

Final follow up unless something blows up. I went through 2 FailPro thermostat gaskets using a small amount of Permatex Water pump sealant, following directions, and both leaked at low PSI test pressure. I finally sealed it by using ultra black in a thick bead, no gasket, and just snugging the bolts down overnight. Torqued this morning and held 15 psi forever, no bubbles on the soap water test. yay
I ran the engine in the driveway about 45 minutes playing around with my cheapo IR gun, temps never ran over 185. No spit to the recovery system. I am calling it a win. I wish I had a smaller wp pulley, but can't find a 5.25 at 2 inch height single groove. I will leave it alone. Currently pulleys measure the same size, matched set from CVF. It will eventually be an AC car but not this year lol.
 
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