Simple Easy Upgrades

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murph_44

murph_44

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I'm looking to up my slant six a lil bit but dont quite have the cash to do a complete rebuild at the moment I'm going to get headers and cam and lifter kit but what would be a good set up should I got single, double, four barrel carb shes still gonna be a daily driver but want some juice in her

Thanks Devon
 
It's not as "glamorous", but you'd get way more bang for your buck by milling the cylinder head to raise compression and swapping to a better gear set out back.

If you're more concerned with impressing people when you pop the hood, then by all means add a set of headers and a carb/intake to an otherwise stock engine. It won't hurt anything, but it won't make things too much better, either. Stock slants have VERY low compression (7-8:1). Unless you deal with that first, you probably won't be satisfied with the results.

You don't need to rebuild the engine to get real improvements, but bolt-ons aren't the way to go for substantial results, either. They're just easier.
 
I have to disagree with "wont hurt anything".
Changing the way an engine breathes will change the resistance and wear patterns already developed throughout the engine.
So many times the addition of external bolt-ons inspire the owner to start stomping on the throttle. I call that stomping the fire out.
If you want to start investing in performance parts as the good deals come along , fine. Leave them in the boxes until you have a fresh engine to install them on.
 
Whats and ideal size to shave off??? and since I have that off should I switch out the pistons or would it even matter if I'm not boring it out??
 
Will i have.to go with shorter pistons??? Anything like that this is.my first time doing all this basically by trial and error figured it be better to do it with a 6 since these things are pretty durrable
 
You don't need shorter pistons, the whole idea of shaving the head is to raise the compression ratio from the mid sevens to the mid nines....
I think you might have missed the point here.
I heard of guys milling 80 to 100 thousandths of an inch off their heads without any other upgrades at all and got a lot more power out of the slant 6 without doing anything else, it really wakes them up.
It won't affect reliability as far as i know.
Go to slantsix.org and read a bunch of info there, a lot of good reading there about it.
 
murph_44 said:
Whats and ideal size to shave off???
Click to expand...

You're not gonna like this... You need to pull the head, learn to take some measurements, plug them into a compression calculator, and find out exactly where you are now. Otherwise, if you just try a "ballpark" estimate, you either A) waste time and money not getting the full benefit of your hard work, or B) go too far and start getting detonation, which could get VERY expensive (requiring higher octane gas or an engine rebuild).

I know taking measurements and doing calculations sounds daunting, but this is REAL hot-rodding. You have to know exactly what you're starting with. Bolting parts together relatively is easy. Most of us started out where you are. The hardest part is forcing yourself to learn the fundamentals. It's not nearly as much fun as buying shiny new parts, but like I said, you'll actually get better results.

and since I have that off should I switch out the pistons or would it even matter if I'm not boring it out??
Click to expand...

You can't change the pistons without a complete rebuild. (I'm sure some might argue that it's technically possible, but let's just say that, if you have everything apart, you might as well do a rebuild.) If you ARE willing and able to rebuild your engine, it makes increasing compression a lot easier (you can have your machine shop do a lot of the legwork and calculations for you), but if your goal is just "more power", there are cheaper ways to go about it (a V8 swap).

Also, in and of itself, boring an engine isn't really about making more power. It's mainly done to true the bores. Yes, it does increase displacement some, but the increase in power isn't all that significant compared to everything else.
 
JMO.. I removed my points system and went electronic,, I removed the 1 3/4" exhaust system and added 2 1/4... removed the battery from under the hood and put a fresh air retrieving system in so I don't try burning 200 degree air.. I removed the single barrel carb and intake and replced it with a Offy aluminum 4 barrel with a very small 390 cfm Holley... I put the good NGK plugs in and it woke my 66 up..
No more problems getting up moutons or pulling into traffic and runs cooler.
with the factory 3.23 gears and 14'' tires it runs a 11:30 1/8 mile now and I bet it was running a 14:30 before, This was dun to a low dec 170/ and my gas milage went up to about 26 mpg. Know I have everything on my 66 (my daily driver) ready for my new big valve head and just a slight shave off, about 40k off of it.
I know this is not a screamer :happy8: But it can get out of it's own way now.
I really think the cool air supply and larger exhoust and changing to electronic was the kicker here.
 

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memike said:
JMO.. I removed my points system and went electronic,, I removed the 1 3/4" exhaust system and added 2 1/4... removed the battery from under the hood and put a fresh air retrieving system in so I don't try burning 200 degree air.. I removed the single barrel carb and intake and replced it with a Offy aluminum 4 barrel with a very small 390 cfm Holley... I put the good NGK plugs in and it woke my 66 up..
No more problems getting up moutons or pulling into traffic and runs cooler.
with the factory 3.23 gears and 14'' tires it runs a 11:30 1/8 mile now and I bet it was running a 14:30 before, This was dun to a low dec 170/ and my gas milage went up to about 26 mpg. Know I have everything on my 66 (my daily driver) ready for my new big valve head and just a slight shave off, about 40k off of it.
I know this is not a screamer :happy8: But it can get out of it's own way now.
I really think the cool air supply and larger exhoust and changing to electronic was the kicker here.
Click to expand...

Memike, where did you get all your parts and what was the cost?
 
rp23g7 said:
Memike, where did you get all your parts and what was the cost?
Click to expand...

NAPA had it al, I bought the distributor off ebay about 2 years ago :happy8:
The part numbers you see are NAPA #'s
The breather is from a 93 Jeep 4.0

You can call your local parts store and get a cost, I can't remember what my cost was But using the part numbers will make it easy to get a cost in your area, Hope this helps
 

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memike said:
NAPA had it al, I bought the distributor off ebay about 2 years ago :happy8:
The part numbers you see are NAPA #'s
The breather is from a 93 Jeep 4.0

You can call your local parts store and get a cost, I can't remember what my cost was But using the part numbers will make it easy to get a cost in your area, Hope this helps
Click to expand...

you found the Offy manifold at Napa?
 
rp23g7 said:
you found the Offy manifold at Napa?
Click to expand...

Oop's sorry, No I bought the intake from a local MoPar friend that new I was doing a slant, fixed me up with it for $90 =D> Then I had CudaChick powder coat it for me =D> It was a nasty looking thing when I got it but it was in good shape
 

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memike said:
JMO.. I removed my points system and went electronic,, I removed the 1 3/4" exhaust system and added 2 1/4... removed the battery from under the hood and put a fresh air retrieving system in so I don't try burning 200 degree air.. I removed the single barrel carb and intake and replced it with a Offy aluminum 4 barrel with a very small 390 cfm Holley... I put the good NGK plugs in and it woke my 66 up..
No more problems getting up moutons or pulling into traffic and runs cooler.
with the factory 3.23 gears and 14'' tires it runs a 11:30 1/8 mile now and I bet it was running a 14:30 before, This was dun to a low dec 170/ and my gas milage went up to about 26 mpg. Know I have everything on my 66 (my daily driver) ready for my new big valve head and just a slight shave off, about 40k off of it.
I know this is not a screamer :happy8: But it can get out of it's own way now.
I really think the cool air supply and larger exhoust and changing to electronic was the kicker here.
Click to expand...

holy crap those plugs are long! i mean from the tip of the threads to the strap! WOW
 

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805moparkid said:
holy crap those plugs are long! i mean from the tip of the threads to the strap! WOW
Click to expand...
Yes they are and when the washer is removed (like they suppose to) :pirat:
on the drool tube early head they reach on in and make a giant difference on burn :blob: I was told to do these buy 66aCUDA and Charlie_s.
I removed the ones that was in the 170/ and they was shorter and some one did not remove the washer, could have picked up a tinny bit of compression :bounce: very little any way :hello2:
I could tell the difference right away compared to the plugs that I did have, But I did change my ecu and coil at the same time with the plugs.
 
You guys are just fill of information. Save the new parts for a rebuild. Give a good tune with proper plugs, electic ing, better exhaust will go a long way for now. Having the head work will pay out big for what you are looking for but may cost more than what you can spend. Check with machine shops about the cost.
And no matter how many times I see your motor Mike, I love it more each time I see it.
 
HemiPar said:
You guys are just fill of information. Save the new parts for a rebuild. Give a good tune with proper plugs, electic ing, better exhaust will go a long way for now. Having the head work will pay out big for what you are looking for but may cost more than what you can spend. Check with machine shops about the cost.
And no matter how many times I see your motor Mike, I love it more each time I see it.
Click to expand...

Thank you HemiPar, and I agree that just getting fresh air to the 2 barrel carb and upgrading to a larger exhaust pipe off the original single manifold and electronic ignition will take our new member a long long way.
 
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