Insure wish you’d stop making thing confusing!
For a 360, a 108 LSA would be preference.
How about actual cam specs and please don’t post links.
Single or Dual Pattern Cam
- Thread starter Dan the man
- Start date
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Insure wish you’d stop making thing confusing!
For a 360, a 108 LSA would be preference.
How about actual cam specs and please don’t post links.
Many do!
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i saw that. was going to mention it.
I thought it made a hair more torque in the lower rpm range.
Way back when………
I guess that’s why a lot of guys used 1.5 I & 1.6 E on there rides!
It sure was easier decades ago before the internet. Look at some catalogs, read the specs, the characteristics and what was needed (c.r., intake, exhaust, gears etc) and make a choice. Back in the early 90’s I picked a version of this cam for a 400 b-block in 70 pickup, actually had a little lope considering the specs, but I picked it based on what I had. Was a great cam, throttle response, pull etc. Just an example:
Erson-PBM-World-B2C | E420121 - Erson Cams - Chrysler A V8 TQ20H
Sometimes doing it the old fashioned way is all one really needs, IDK, but so far for the OP it sounds like the symptoms of “TMI”
You’ll get it figured one way or the other.
Erson-PBM-World-B2C | E420121 - Erson Cams - Chrysler A V8 TQ20H
Sometimes doing it the old fashioned way is all one really needs, IDK, but so far for the OP it sounds like the symptoms of “TMI”
You’ll get it figured one way or the other.
It was somewhat....but the old dang Crane catalog......that thing would sometimes have "rough idle" by one, you get it and it idle smooth as silk. Course the more we learned about this stuff, the more we could tell ourselves, but sometimes those descriptions were way off base. lolIt sure was easier decades ago before the internet. Look at some catalogs, read the specs, the characteristics and what was needed (c.r., intake, exhaust, gears etc) and make a choice. Back in the early 90’s I picked a version of this cam for a 400 b-block in 70 pickup, actually had a little lope considering the specs, but I picked it based on what I had. Was a great cam, throttle response, pull etc. Just an example:
Erson-PBM-World-B2C | E420121 - Erson Cams - Chrysler A V8 TQ20H
Sometimes doing it the old fashioned way is all one really needs, IDK, but so far for the OP it sounds like the symptoms of “TMI”
I never actually bought a cam from Crane, but I’ve read or heard long ago more than a few times that their descriptions were often more than what it actually was (and now you do as well!) I know that was why I never went with them the few times I bought cams back in the days of only catalogs. Like you say, the more we learn the more you know what you’re looking at.
It's like a lot of the descriptions even now. You see where it says something like "RPM range 1000-4500" and you know dang well it'll pull stumps till 6500. lol It's all about the combination. That just caint be repeated enough.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Wonder if the poor rod ratio had anything to do with that.
Some old high jacked info I keep !!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Brutal,,, BUT Truth...
Ironracer
Gearhead
I've read ALOT of good stuff here on him. He can even Re-Grind... course my thick head cain't grasp how, you could add lift... welding?
Back in the early 80s, Comp cams was a new company. They became popular very quickly, mostly due to some smart marketing IMO. I remember when the "Magnum" line came out, the ads said, " The 280 Magnum has a very racey idle in small blocks, mildly racey idle in big blocks. The 292 Magnum will make you the KING OF THE DRIVE-IN". Guess which cam I bought. LOL
Ironracer
Gearhead
You mean, the rocker ratio? Man, that's Slick!
Imagine "where" on the cam core the lobe is. A good cam grinder can put that lobe anywhere on that core he wants it. In other words, he can move the lobe so that, even though he's ground some off, it will lift the valve more than it did before. Of course, a lot of times an engine will require longer pushrods.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Ahhh, now the Carpenter/ Drywall guy digs it! Thanks Brother! Basically, like I Can, AND HAVE, literally, Raised a Roof, it still has to have " Legs"! But...I just still caint get it.. ain't Max Lift the pointy, narrow ( like my head..) of the lobe?
Ironracer
Gearhead
And vehicle weight, usually...for best performance..
Yes. Imagine the cam grinder MOVING the whole lobe on the core so the peak of the lobe is higher than it was. Of course that also means the base circle will be "lower" necessitating longer pushrods. Get it?
As for single vs dual, if you have a balanced intake exhaust tract theoretically single pattern, which most of us don't so dual pattern.
As for the question above, depends.
Picking a cam depends exactly what you want out of your combo and your own personal taste, the more things you expect out of your combo to be able to do the harder to find the right balance and might have to try few.
If I wanted a cam, with 108 lsa I'd go through all the cam companies look for the ones that will work in the powerband I'm looking for and narrow the choices down.
Depending what heads we're talking about cam lifts will be in the .450-.550 range I'd use the ones with more lift.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Wait a Minute... so are you saying, when the Re Grinding occurs, ya can
DIG IT, MY BROTHER!!!!! Thank You! That clears up alot! Hence, my reading about many members needing O/S push rods.... Cam Bumps lifters, lifters push pushrods, pushrods rock the rockers, rockers roll ( not in my case, lol) the valves, the valves open, and the Mopar Survives, to run again! So,basically, the guys like Ken save on the cores... that's Recycling right There! Those commies, whoops "Green folks" should be Proud of us! Lol! Are they still needed to be "broke in" after the grind? As the old location of the lifters ain't the same? Sorry to be a HemmaRoid
Yes, rocker ratio’s split between intake and exhaust. Guys would use the 1.6 on the exhaust for a little extra lift and a smidge of duration. If your car picked up a little, then it was a close to perfect cam for the combo, or if it picked up a lot, then the cam was to small.
Once in a while, guys would do the reverse, 1.6 intake, 1.5 exhaust and see what happens.
It wasn’t long after that the split pattern cams exploded in the catalogs and became popular.
People try all sorts of stuff.
I had a pretty radical street cam, A Hyd. single pattern, an old time Crane ground on a 106. After messing with the rocker ratios, I used Rhodes lifters only on the intake lobes.
Now if the combo was good to begin with, I wouldn’t have done this move but it did mello the idle & help the car be a bit better around town lowering the rpm range of the cam.
The real power in the cam rpm wise was after 3200 easy. Since the Rhodes lifters pump up by then, I say it wasn’t a big deal in WOT performance since I was ignoring everything under 3500 as far as torque was concerned with that cam being used, but around town, the Rhodes lifters helped out a lot.
It was a band-aid fix that worked great.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I'm going to be using headers, probably 1 5/8" long tube headers. I didn't realize all that went into camshaft selection, back in the day we would put a cam, headers, 4 barrel carburetor in our cars and we thought that we had a fast car when in fact it probably ran terrible. A 108* LSA has been recommended for me. I trust the recommendation but I think that it would be a good idea for me to still read up on camshafts so that I have a better understanding of what's all involved with doing the proper selection of parts. Everyone on here has made this more interesting to me.
Not at all. Askin questions is how we learn. I'm still learnin everyday.
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