TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Get rid of the pcv valve. You’re pressurizing the crankcase with it. Cap the hole in the throttle body and vent the valve cover with a catch can with as big of a hose that will fit (-10 minimum).
Not good. Keep boost low and timing conservative, and make sure you have enough octane to not detonate at ALL. The biggest problem is you don’t know what the ring gaps are.I have not opened ring gap
Get rid of the pcv valve. You’re pressurizing the crankcase with it. Cap the hole in the throttle body and vent the valve cover with a catch can with as big of a hose that will fit (-10 minimum).
A large filter.What would you suggest be on the outlet side of the can?
Those look like 3/8 npt ports and if that’s the case I wouldn’t use that catch can. I’ve made the mistake in the past using venting systems that are too small and you end up chasing your tail. You could try it since it was free but I bet you’ll end up replacing it. My recommendation is to look at some of the motion raceworks stuff, Top Loader Billet Oil Catch Can (Dual 10AN Port) 32-100
Their junk is very expensive but you’ll never have to buy it again. I just bought the one I linked above for my recent small block turbo build.

I’d ditch the breather in the front and plug it, or run two hoses (front and back of the valve cover) to your catch can. And you’ll have to plug the ports in the manifold youre currently using for pcv.Leave the other breather in place that I already have on the front of the valve cover.
All correct except,
I’d ditch the breather in the front and plug it, or run two hoses (front and back of the valve cover) to your catch can. And you’ll have to plug the ports in the manifold youre currently using for pcv.
Correct. It will be at atmospheric until you are in boost. Then you’ll have crankcase pressure. The goal is to let the pressure out as easily as possible and catch any oil mist at the same time.99% understood. To confirm, that means that air could go either way through the filter/catch can into or out of the crankcase in order to normalize crankcase pressure to whatever is needed as there would be no check valves or PCV valves anywhere in the system.
I don't totally agree. On a race car that would be OK, but not really on a street car. I don't have experience with a "supercharger", but I do have with turbos on the street. With any street car you need some way of ventilating the crankcase. Is the engine under boost any time it is running? If not the engine needs some ventilation when not on boost.Get rid of the pcv valve. You’re pressurizing the crankcase with it. Cap the hole in the throttle body and vent the valve cover with a catch can with as big of a hose that will fit (-10 minimum).
It’s cool if you disagree but all of my suggestions are based on experience (as I know yours are as well) and I know what’s worked for me. One thing you’re missing is that when the pcv closes under boost you’re still getting blow by passed the rings and now it has nowhere (or very limited area) to escape. The springs in PCV valves are hardly the most reliable and valves themselves are rarely a sealed device. The easiest way to make everything happy with boost is vent the valve cover with large hoses to a catch can. It’s as simple as that.I don't totally agree. On a race car that would be OK, but not really on a street car. I don't have experience with a "supercharger", but I do have with turbos on the street. With any street car you need some way of ventilating the crankcase. Is the engine under boost any time it is running? If not the engine needs some ventilation when not on boost.
PS: the PCV valve will not pressurize the crankcase. When the intake goes positive pressure the PCV valve closes.
I understand about the blowby under boost. That is why you also have a "breather" (going to a oil separator is good) then to the air cleaner.It’s cool if you disagree but all of my suggestions are based on experience (as I know yours are as well) and I know what’s worked for me. One thing you’re missing is that when the pcv closes under boost you’re still getting blow by passed the rings and now it has nowhere (or very limited area) to escape. The springs in PCV valves are hardly the most reliable and valves themselves are rarely a sealed device. The easiest way to make everything happy with boost is vent the valve cover with large hoses to a catch can. It’s as simple as that.
It has nothing to do with whether it passes smog test or not. It has everything to do with fresh air ventilation of the crankcase. Even before the days of the PCV systems, they used a "road draft" tube to create a partial vacuum, to have fresh air circulation in the crank case.All of that stuff can work, and lots of guys have put in all kinds of one way check valves and do dabs and gizmos and whiz bangs to make the pcv system function but it’s all unnecessary (especially so for a vehicle that is smog exempt) when simply venting the valve cover to a catch can works wonderfully.
I’m very familiar. My reference to smog was because the single hardest pcv system I’ve ever put together was a turbocharged EFI big block Chevy with a mass air meter and a fixed orifice pcv AND it had to pass smog. Trust me if you can make that work you have a good understanding of how to make a pcv system work, and I’m telling you with 100% certainty that a good catch can with big hoses to the valve covers is enough for just about any engine to breath.It has nothing to do with whether it passes smog test or not. It has everything to do with fresh air ventilation of the crankcase. Even before the days of the PCV systems, they used a "road draft" tube to create a partial vacuum, to have fresh air circulation in the crank case.
A BIG coalescing oil to air separator is a must if you are feeding the PVC back into the air intake side of a turbo/supercharger. Even more so with an Intercooler. You do not want oil mist inside the vanes or cooler.I’m very familiar. My reference to smog was because the single hardest pcv system I’ve ever put together was a turbocharged EFI big block Chevy with a mass air meter and a fixed orifice pcv AND it had to pass smog. Trust me if you can make that work you have a good understanding of how to make a pcv system work, and I’m telling you with 100% certainty that a good catch can with big hoses to the valve covers is enough for just about any engine to breath.
Been doing some more reading and youtube learning... Sounds like my noise at cruise is perfectly normal... Will have to see if my sanity can tolerate it! LOL
Sounds like there are a few things that can be done to lessen the sound at cruise- I'll have to see how it goes as I continue to drive it.
Could put a hose extension on it and build a metal box to house it with some dampening.
I'd move that Cone Air filter to the front of the radiator so you have a bit colder air intake. The supercharger will add more than enough heat to the charge. Looks COOL as hell but not functional.