Slant 6 to 318 swap

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Valiantjosh6

Valiantjosh6

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I am purchasing a 1972 dodge d200. It currently has a slant 6 4 speed manual in it but I want to swap that out and put my 318 automatic in. What would I need to do as far as the transmission goes? 318 came out of a 72 satelite if that helps..
 
You're probably looking for a 727 for a truck.
 
Assuming this is a 2wd, the 904 and 4 speed are the same length. They also use the same yoke and drive shaft will work along with the mount. If you have a 727 it will be 4 inches longer and uses a specific yoke. If this is a 4 wheel drive , I couldn't tell you what to do.
 
i thought the 833 and 727 were the same yolk, but not the 904 and 833??
 
73AbodEE said:
I know my 3 speed yoke would not work with my 727. I had to buy a 29 spline yoke for it to work.
I assume 3 and 4 speed yokes are the same?
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It'd be 2wd, gotta find out what kind of trans I have though. Wouldn't I need to get a new bell housing and flywheel, pressure plate etc?
 
Valiantjosh6 said:
It'd be 2wd, gotta find out what kind of trans I have though. Wouldn't I need to get a new bell housing and flywheel, pressure plate etc?
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automatics have torque converters not flywheels, pressure plates etc. that is manual transmissions only.

you will be dropping in the V8 and automatic in together. you will need V8 truck mounts and exhaust. you will have to figure out a shifter and automatic radiator set up as well.
 
73AbodEE said:
automatics have torque converters not flywheels, pressure plates etc. that is manual transmissions only.

you will be dropping in the V8 and automatic in together. you will need V8 truck mounts and exhaust. you will have to figure out a shifter and automatic radiator set up as well.
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Wonderful. So I should be okay using the v8 and 904 trans making the correct modifications (motor mounts, radiator, shifter) but drive shaft should be okay?
 
Valiantjosh6 said:
Wonderful. So I should be okay using the v8 and 904 trans making the correct modifications (motor mounts, radiator, shifter) but drive shaft should be okay?
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Test fit the drive shaft yoke in the 904 just to be sure but the shaft will be right length. You may have to lengthen the water temp sender wire but the rest of the wiring will be fine. Make sure you have a compatable distributor for your ignition set up
 
Get the proper v-8 truck motor mounts, and put the engine in.

Then get the trans linkages, radiator, auto shifter from a period correct truck and bolt it up and go.


Before you drop the engine in the truck, I would recommend putting a new double roller timing chain on it. The stock 318 timing chains are junk single row that stretch to easy. Get a good double roller and bolt it in, it will pay for itself in better fuel economy and performance. I have run this chain in many engines for many years and it holds up very well - not much stretch at 125,000 miles - it can go 200 k on a daily driver easy without stretching as much as the stock chain.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/edelbrock4.html


You will also have to get a truck oil pan and pick up tube for the 318. The car oil pans have the hump in a different position. If you don't have a truck oil pan on it, it will hit the k-frame. You cannot use a 360 oil pan on a 318, the rear seal has a different diameter. You have to use a truck 318 oil pan.

Here's a thread to explain the differences in the oil pans for small blocks:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=277430


Here's a link to a thread on how the front of a small block goes together under the timing chain cover.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=287231


Here's one on how to ID your engine block:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=285021


I would also recommend at least using the stock electronic ignition kit.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/maraprelcoki.html


Then it is up to you if you want to upgrade the cam, intake, and carb for 4 bbl.
 
krazykuda said:
If you have to take the oil pan off, you may want to give it a quick refresh - bearings, rings, and gaskets.

Here's a link for a reasonably priced package deal for that:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealedpowerkit.html


Some other options for refresh kits:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/enrebkit.html
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Awesome! This is very helpful info. Looks like I'll be putting a little more work into the engine than anticipated but may as well while its not in an engine bay. Does not seem terribly complicated though.
 
Valiantjosh6 said:
Awesome! This is very helpful info. Looks like I'll be putting a little more work into the engine than anticipated but may as well while its not in an engine bay. Does not seem terribly complicated though.
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You may as well make sure that everything is good with it before you put it in. It's easier to do it now that it's out of the vehicle.
 
krazykuda said:
Yep, that looks like a truck pan with the hump at the back. :cheers:


Make sure to get the matching pick-up tube for it.
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I have a brand new truck pick-up tube that was bought for a 72 truck 318 that I bought. Since the motor wasn't going in a truck, I converted the pick-up and pan over to a car style. Drop me a PM if interested in the pick-up.
 
i had a 70 d-100 that was originally a slant 6 truck but when i got it there was a 318/standard. i sold the truck to tqfastfish and last time i was at his dads speed shop i saw the truck still siting there so he might still have some useful parts.

I might still have the motor mounts and i know i have the oil pan someplace that came off the 318.
 
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