Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

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Yeah I'm still at a loss. I checked the wastegate arm and it can only move one direction to become opened, and the arm is pulling it to full close, then you can grab it and yank it real hard to open, just like you were saying. Pulling towards the turbo intake is closed, away is opened. I'm going to dig into the whole intake. I believe the exhaust is just fine. There's a slight leak, but like you said, it should still push something. I believe it is somehow not making pressure move forward to the intake. At the same time though, when i had the boost gauge attached directly in line with the turbo and wastegate, it did not move, and I'd think it would being there, but then again if the charge pipe was not holding pressure, I guess it still would not read anything.
 
Serj22 said:
I'm still working it out. Even though it seems simple because there's only one way to hook it up, I believe I am somehow doing something wrong with the wastegate or blow off valve, in that one or the other is constantly letting off pressure (or both).
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Did you preload your waste gate...Can not wait till you get boost.I am planning a /6 turbo setup for my 63 dart.Here is a video on preload:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p12g1PpIcjE"]Wastegate Preload Setting - YouTube[/ame]
 
Was just going to ask that TXDart. Is the preload on the wastegate arm properly adjusted? I had problems on my old Audi turbo with the preload being too high and causing overboost, I assume it can go the other way too. Here's to hoping for an easy fix and that you get it figured out soon.
:burnout:
 
look in the front of your turbo while its running. does it do this?
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGFwCufBh7M"]Bad turbo - YouTube[/ame]
 
No Jr, it spins the second you turn the motor on, and spins faster if you rev it. It does not lock like yours is doing now.

The wastegate arm is as tight as I can make it, so I dont think there's an issue with it being closed and the turbo does visually spool so the only thing left I think is to dig through the whole cold side. I'm going to claim the hot side is in check. So that just leaves the piping, intercooler, bov, carb, carb hat, and let's see what's messed up in that list. One thing must be faulty or just installed incorrectly.

Also I think Bill and others might like this. I just had some custom vinyls made that got shipped here today.

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The secret's out now... no hiding it.

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Also I think Bill and others might like this. I just had some custom vinyls made that got shipped here today. The secret's out now... no hiding it.

Man, I love that decal on the hood!!! I have one for my car that is similar, but isn't on the hood, yet... (hood is not painted, yet.)

You beat me to the punch!!! I'm way jealous! :blob:
 
Could you do a simple check for pressure coming from the tube from your intercooler to the carb hat (using your hand on it) while someone lightly loads the engine with brakes on? (farmer thinking)
 
Idaho said:
Could you do a simple check for pressure coming from the tube from your intercooler to the carb hat (using your hand on it) while someone lightly loads the engine with brakes on? (farmer thinking)
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Just did it with the neighbor helping. He put his hand over the pipe out of the intercooler, nothing. We detached the intercooler, he held his hand below the turbo outlet, as you accelerate it pushes air harder out the oultet. I connected the piping from the turbo directly to the hat, hit the brakes, put it in drive, and revved it. Still could not get it out of vacuum. I inspected the blow off valve, and it is shut tight, so I don't think that's the issue, and the little bolt hole on top as my neighbor suggested is also likely not the issue, as I plugged it and tried it that way.

My next thought is that there is an exhaust leak that I cant see that is just causing it to lose a tremendous amount of heat before it hits the turbo and therfor doesn't spool that fast?
 
This might be a crazy longshot but could there be a problem with the actual turbo? Is the shaft connecting the hot side and cold side ok?
 
turn up the boost controller. or without the pipe hooked up to the intercooler/carb, take the signal off of the wastegate and rev it hard with your hand over the opening. its should blow your hand off the opening.
 
DNasty777 said:
This might be a crazy longshot but could there be a problem with the actual turbo? Is the shaft connecting the hot side and cold side ok?
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That is a possibility, but when I had the turbo off I was spinning the turbines and both sides moved when you pushed on one side. It seemed fine.

RustyPlymouth said:
turn up the boost controller. or without the pipe hooked up to the intercooler/carb, take the signal off of the wastegate and rev it hard with your hand over the opening. its should blow your hand off the opening.
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I have the boost controller disconnected right now, just one hose from turbo to wastegate. I'll disconnect it, and try that. Would I be able to do it on my own using the throttle lever with no load on the motor? I lost my help, he had to go do errands.
 
Ok just tried it, and to me it feels like no air is even coming out of the outlet of the compressor housing. That was with no load. But even then SOMETHING should happen yeah? You can watch the turbine spool faster and slower depending on the engine speed, so it's spinning, but what could be occuring here?
 
Air being sucked in will turn the compressor by itself without any help from the turbine, you just won't be compressing any air. I'd take the downpipe off and look at what is happening at the hot side while doing the same test.
 
DNasty777 said:
Air being sucked in will turn the compressor by itself without any help from the turbine, you just won't be compressing any air. I'd take the downpipe off and look at what is happening at the hot side while doing the same test.
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i did this test with the turbo detached completely on all the cold piping, so the motor is running, and the turbo is just using exhaust to spin i would think. The intake and outlet on cold is operating without pull from the motor.

I'll pull the downpipe down, it's just attached with a V-band clamp, but what am I looking for on that side?
 
yes you can do it in park with the throttle linkage. at idle its not gonna be doing much of anything. its only when revved hard that it will start to build pressure. hold your hand on the opening that the air comes out of on the turbo. block it off completely. rev it hard.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
yes you can do it in park with the throttle linkage. at idle its not gonna be doing much of anything. its only when revved hard that it will start to build pressure. hold your hand on the opening that the air comes out of on the turbo. block it off completely. rev it hard.
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I covered it up and crimped the wastegate hose so that wouldn't leak. I pulled the throttle hard but no air seemed to blow on my hand, and I could leave it there willingly without it being forced off. I did feel some nice hot air coming from between the manifolds, but I'd think even with that, I should get some pressure. But nada. The compressor wheel spins, and everything is doing what it's supposed to. I can't move the blades in or out, and there's no play laterally either. The turbocharger as it sits seems like it should function wonderfully.

Exhaust leak that's too large?
 
Serj22 said:
i did this test with the turbo detached completely on all the cold piping, so the motor is running, and the turbo is just using exhaust to spin i would think. The intake and outlet on cold is operating without pull from the motor.

I'll pull the downpipe down, it's just attached with a V-band clamp, but what am I looking for on that side?
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Oh ok I missed that. I'd still pull the downpipe and check to make sure the wastegate is holding.
 
Well, pulled the downpipe and the wastegate flange assembly.

I can grab one impeller and the other spins with it. There's no bad movement at all, and it's very secure. If the wastegate is completely open almost all the exhaust gas comes out the wastegate hole, and the wastegate arm completely covers the hole where i have it set. It is well and secure, and holding.

Dang...

What's next?
 
the exhaust is going to follow the path of least resistance. so naturally it will come out of the wastegate hole instead of running through the impellers.

i would fix any and all exhaust leaks you have going on and proceed from there.

any specs on the turbo?
 
T3/T4 style.

A/R .50 on the compressor side. That's all the info I know. It's based on the T04E like the GN turbo.

I'll start adressing exhaust leaks as I can find them. I think it may just be too much energy being lost out of the exhaust somewhere in a leak. I'll get the piping squared away well on the intake side and go back to dealing with the exhaust side. The manifolds are incredibly secure against the head, but I feel the spot between them is what's leaking. There's a tiny pinhole feeling leak on the downpipe where it meets the flange, but that's after the turbine.

Everything inside the downpipe and the flange was black. This thing is running rich with no boost for sure.
 
what may seem like a small leak will be a lot when under pressure. i still find it odd that you have no boost leaks or not. you should be able to get something.
 
I hate to be THAT guy, but for your goal of 200 horse, N/A would've been by the book, more reliable, a breeze... even with a slant six :eek:ops:

Sorry! lol but you get to learn a LOT this way! (not that you don't learn plenty when you go into the science/theory of n/a)
 
Totally understandable - and you're probably right. But if you read carefully you'll see that 200 is the "goal" only so that I feel really happy if it winds up over that number in the end. Also even though I am frustrated with whatever is going on with this build right now, I am having a LOT of fun. :glasses7: Plus, N/A is cool, and someone would think it's cool to have a high HP slant six with no forced induction, but I'm looking for the "that's weird, why'd you do that?" factor.
 
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