I think the crank bolt takes either a 1 1/8'' or a 1 1/4'' socket. The timing mark plate should have 'before' or 'after' written on it. Factory initial timing is either 2 1/2* or 5* before TDC. Adjust the valves and put regular gas in it. Then you can play with the timing.
Slant dies when cruising.....
- Thread starter clementine
- Start date
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this is what I'm looking at...i don't see a crank bolt. I know there has to be one. after you get done chuckling... fill me in.
pishta
I know I'm right....
No, that is the Black Hole of Calcutta...many slants didn't come with a crank bolt, just pressed on at factory. Nothing to worry about, but if you want to put one in, its ready for you.
The statement above "I think the crank bolt takes either a 1 1/8'' or a 1 1/4'' socket." is incorrect as there isn't one to begin with. Oh, and it's 1-1/4" on my 1969 340.
If you dig around enough, what you will find is a 3/4-16 UNF tapped hole. Dig out the muck and maybe douse it with some brake cleaner.
A true slanter knows you can rotate the engine by putting pressure on the belt and rotating the engine with his other hand on a fan blade. But if you want a bolt to rotate with, just get a very large diameter 3/4" washer (or make one) and buy a 3/4"-16 UNF bolt about 2" or 2-1-4" long. I got one at TSC.
True that. I went to Allpar >tech > engines > straight six >slant 6 and saw some early photos of slant sixes at the assy plant. They had the balancer bolts on them. What's interesting is they were testing them for leaks?? They also had exhaust manifolds on them that I've never seen. Smooth shaped. Performance upgrade?
So I have not quite got that stumble tuned out of the slant......It is a couple months from my last post on this and I have been running it regularily. I have played a bit with the carb and have had some luck with turning up the idle. I am running non ethanol 100% of the time. It still stumbles and now sometimes dies off idle. Another thing is that it is tougher to start when hot. So I feel like if this were a 4BBL, it would be the squirters. It runs fine once the pedal is mashed. I guess I go back to page one and follow the advice to make sure line is clear and tank is clean, although it doesnt run out of fuel when pedal is mashed. Any thoughts? I will check for vacume leaks, cracked hoses and check tank and fuel lines next. Im headed out for a 100 mile run this afternoon so we will see if I need AAA. Ha Ha!
As always...Thanks FABO!
As always...Thanks FABO!
Going to go forth and check fuel tank and lines for 'gradu' and order some of the dizzy upgrades that Trail Beast suggested. It really wanted to fall on its face after heating up. What are you guys running for a shroud? Stocker? It doesnt really need one but asthetically I would like to put one on. (Ok it got a leeeeeetle hot on that trip) Thanks FABO!
Ok. latest. Apparently after rebuilding your carb you should go ahead and check back with it to make sure its still tight or that you had it tight in the first place. This was my case. solved. I did blow out the lines and vent tube. Thats when I was putting the hard line back on the carb that I realized it was looooooooooose. Like jiggly vizibly loose. I did get the lockout plate and some new springs as well as the recommended rotor. Things are looking up!
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