Slant got me stumped

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I verified where TDC was with a piston stop and both 1 and 6 valves were resting. and the mark on the balancer was on the zero.



I pulled out my volt meter and probed around the coil, ballast, battery, etc...lots of low numbers...I striped back some tape in a few locations that caught my eye and found lots of crappy splices/brittle wires....

Spark is orange

I just got this problem car a few month's ago and have yet to see it run decent...
 
GAMoparMan said:
I verified where TDC was with a piston stop and both 1 and 6 valves were resting. and the mark on the balancer was on the zero.

I pulled out my volt meter and probed around the coil, ballast, battery, etc...lots of low numbers...I striped back some tape in a few locations that caught my eye and found lots of crappy splices/brittle wires.... Spark is orange

I just got this problem car a few month's ago and have yet to see it run decent...
Click to expand...
Not sure what is meant by 'resting'; at TDC either the #1 or #6 pair of valves will be fully closed and the other will be slightly open, but in approximately equal amounts if the cam is timed right.

OK, on the spark color and the low voltages. Do you have any voltage readings to share at both ends of the ballast? Hope that runs it down for you.
 
nm9stheham said:
Not sure what is meant by 'resting'; at TDC either the #1 or #6 pair of valves will be fully closed and the other will be slightly open, but in approximately equal amounts if the cam is timed right.

OK, on the spark color and the low voltages. Do you have any voltage readings to share at both ends of the ballast? Hope that runs it down for you.
Click to expand...

Yes, #1 was both closed, I could wiggle them and #6 both were slightly open, they had tension.

I Ohm'd the ballast and the coil and they checked out with what the specs are...

I'm going to pull out my colored wiring diagram and start from the battery and work my way thru the charging and ignition systems with the meter. Its probably a combo between the Grade 4-F wire splices of the previous owner and the bulkhead connectors...
 
That is the way to do it. Hope it improves, and will not be a waste of your time.... odds are the car needs some electrical work even without the 4F splices!
 
Thanks nm9, if I get into it and it looks to be a bear, I'll just scrap the harness and throw in a EZ-21....Already done it in 1 Duster.....have all my notes and should be able to do it quickier now
 
GAMoparMan said:
Hey guys, I have a 225 here giving me a fit and I can't for the life of me figure this gremlin out.

Started with a 73 225 single barrel..... won't idle below 1800rpm. Runs rough.iming showing like 30+Before. At first I thought it was timing because I couldn't get it to set and it would just bounce around. Inspected and replaced worn timing chain."slap the chain sides together"

Got timing not bouncing, but still acting the same. Rotated it to TDC and stuck the Dis back in....Won't run unless timing is high 25+....Rough

Same....Checked for wiped lobe and set the hot valve lash..That was fun at 1800+RPM...

Same...thought it was a bad cylinder or something..all checked out at 140psi +-5 and no bubbles in the coolant..so headgasket is good.....

Same..changed distributor,coil, and ECU with a known good

Same..verified fuel pump was pumping good.

Starting to look towards a vacuum leak/issue

Completely changed over to a Super Six 2bbl setup, verfied carb, and a remflex gasket..All ports plugged except vent

Same!......Gawr!

Autolite plugs look good..alittle on the black side..I caulk that up to it running like crap..They still have the washers on them.Head has tubes..But I think that would cause this......?

Only thing I haven't changed is the ballast...But I just can't see that being the root cause...could it?

Any other idea's?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You should try to change the gasket underneath the carb maybe you need a thin one instead on thick or thick than thin i had a 318 that i went 4 barrel it would start and idle way to high roar like a lion then die turns out it had the wrong carb mounting gasket
 
A odd little problem I had with a 6 I had, on the drivers side, all the way in the back was a spot for a tube that ran from my air pump. Some 6s have a block off plate and yours might be " suckin air" there. If so ,as statede above, you will really have to richen it up. Where are your jet settings??
 
I stuck a pushrod in my #1 spark plug hole and ran the piston up into it with the balancer, marked the damper and ran it back the other way until it hit, marked and then bisected the marks with a measuring tape. Man, that TDC mark wasnt even close! I was like 12 out. Dont know if it was the balancer or the timing cover as Mopar used a few different ones over the years on the slants. Glad I remarked it, I also scribed a line through the center so I can check if it walks in the future.
 
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