Slant six only runs while starter running

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Greg A-M

Greg A-M

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To be more precise:
When I turn the key over and switch on the starter the car starts right up but will only remain running as long as the key is kept turned/ignition switch on.

I have one suspect but I'm not going to any conclusions just yet. The kid I bought this car from wired in an push button start under the dash which in it's current state isn't actually needed to start the car. The ignition can be done by either the key or the push button. The kid had a lot of drive but not a lot know-how and he probably wired it so that the coil only gets power when the the start also has power.

I'd like the rest of you all's input. What else could cause this scenario?

Car/engine: 74 Duster, 225 \6
whats on it: Original starter, original vacuum advance dist. with new cap and plug wires, new plugs, reasonably fresh carburetor
 
I had the exact same problem. In my case if i fed 12v directly to the ballast resistor the car would run so that worked, it turned out to be the wire coming from the ignition going to the ballast resistor that was bad.
 
Turn your key to the on position and check the coil for voltage, and then follow it back to the ballast resistor checking it there.
This has got to be simple.
 
Usually a broken ballast resistor. But, w/ custom wiring by a noob, who knows? In "run", the key powers only IGN (blue). In "crank", the key powers only IGN2 (brn). IGN is on upstream side of the ballast, IGN2 on downstream (to bypass ballast when cranking). Thus, broken ballast, no current flows to the coil and no spark.
 
Ordered a new ballast resistor. I looked into it and it sounds like this is a textbook example of what happens when they go bad. In a few days I'll have it in the car and we'll see how she goes. Stay tuned. . .
 
Put a new Ballast resistor in. . .
Still doesn't run, same problem.

I also found something else that's a problem, not electrical though.
 
If it;s not the ballast, it is probably the starter relay.
 
Does the blue wire at the ballast have batt.V key on and unplugged from the ballast? And lets be precise,.. key on means running position, not cranking position. The brown wire
will be hot w/the key in the cranking position, and should be on the same side of the ballast as the coil+ wire.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If it;s not the ballast, it is probably the starter relay.
Click to expand...
Ordered a new one. Honestly, if I have any reason to replace something in this car I will. A lot of this stuff is pretty old and tired but I don't have the budget to rip everything out. Doing it first-come-first-serve.

Killer6 said:
Does the blue wire at the ballast have batt.V key on and unplugged from the ballast? And lets be precise,.. key on means running position, not cranking position. The brown wire
will be hot w/the key in the cranking position, and should be on the same side of the ballast as the coil+ wire.
Click to expand...
I'll check that out when I get a chance. Haven't had a lot of time with finals.

Thanks fellas. I'm going to get the parts and the time to put them in this weekend. I'll tell you how it goes. With any luck I'll tell how she was to drive around block.
 
Greg A-M said:
Put a new Ballast resistor in. . .
Still doesn't run, same problem.

I also found something else that's a problem, not electrical though.
Click to expand...

If you would have done what I told you in post 4 you would have found out where to go from there instead of spending your money on something that didn't fix it.
Not saying again.

Good luck with it.
 
TrailBeast said:
If you would have done what I told you in post 4 you would have found out where to go from there instead of spending your money on something that didn't fix it.
Not saying again.

Good luck with it.
Click to expand...

I don't regret spending all of three dollars to replace something that was cracked and corroded. I'd already put it on the list of things to go.
 
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