Slight oil leak question

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J

jhdeval

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Okay so I have identified and fixed almost all my leaks but I have one that I just can not find. I think it may be a gasket probably the oil pan. Do any of the leaks stops work? I am hoping they may swell the gasket to help it seal.
 
I think they work only in taking your money. My understanding is that they are aromatic hydrocarbons (similar to paint solvents) that are supposed to swell rubber and thus maybe stop a leak. They usually say if they don't work, then rebuild the engine or transmission.
 
I would not use anything like that. It might cause swelling of different seals that are not leaking and cause them to leak. If the oil pan is leaking, remove it and make the correct repair.
 
Yes, but it's WAY easier to pull it.
Otherwise your engine gets unbolted and jacked up till you break your distributor cap, and then the trans comes out.
The flywheel gets removed so that when you lay under the car trying to remove the oil pump by reaching inside the pan to unbolt and remove the oilpump and pump shaft without being able to see it, so the pan will come off to change the gaskets.

See what I mean?
 
Yes I do which is why I asked about the additive. I want to pull the engine to detail the bay but I do not have a cherry picker and I have never done it either. Kind of a scary proposition to a newbie I guess.
 
How long can you go without driving it?
 
jhdeval said:
I have a second car so as long as it takes. Why do you ask?
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Because I am in Jones county, probably like 150 miles away. You should drive the beeotch down here and I will help you. We could probably get it all done and detailed like you want in 2 or 3 weekends.
 
I can certainly do that I would appreciate any help I can get. I don't usually have all weekend off but at least one of the tow days is normal. When would you like to get together?
 
Whenever is fine. Just let me know. I'm tellin you NOW, I am SLOW, because of my disability. I cannot stand for long periods and the heat kicks my ***, so you'll have to do most of the work. I have every tool to strip that thing down far as you wanna go. Just don't come down here thinkin we're gonna do it all in one weekend. Long as you understand that, we're all good.
 
No worries Truthfully I would prefer someone over site rather then do it for me. If you want to take a seat and tell me where I need to go I am totally good with that. I have the skill but lack the experience.
 
Could be workable then. I'm all for it. What all exactly are you wantin to do? I will need to pull my D150 outta the way with the tractor, but that's no trouble. I could also use YOU'RE help on a Chevell I am working on for a friend. I am at the point where I need an extra person and with Mrs Kitty's heart condition, she doesn't need to be messin with it. So we could actually trade some off. Just lay out your game plan and we'll go from there. I take it that the car is reliable enough to make the journey?
 
Definitely reliable enough I drive her as often as I can and I just drove her back and forth to Summit in McDonough.

What I would like to do is detail the engine and engine bay; rewrap the engine bay wiring. With the engine out I would like to replace the oil pan gasket, the transmission tail seal and the rear differential input seal. If possible I would love to track down why my wiper don't work. Lastly any other thing that is easiest done with the engine out.

I definitely do not want to take advantage of you. So anything you feel is to much I understand. Most of what I want to do is easily done with the engine out. I understand what needs to be done for each task just don't have the experience. I can certainly help you to the best of my ability. I am excited about the possibility to work with someone who knows about my specific car.
 
Well, I'm no genius on any of these cars. I have to refer here and there myself, but I've been turnin wrenches since 1974 when I was nine, so I got that down pretty good. What I would do if it was mine and I was pullin the motor.....you wanna do everything that seals somethin man. Maybe cept the head gasket. I mean timing cover and all.....and if we do that, maybe new timing chain and stuff. But all that's up to you. I'll help do as much or as little. Plus, if there's small stuff I can do to it durin the week while it's here, I can do that. I kinda like harnessin wires. PM me your number and we can talk some more about it all. Just keep in mind you probably got like two hours road time one way, so keep all that in mind. Far as takin advantage of me, I'm used to it, so no problem there. lol
 
The oil pan can be removed in car on a 65. I remember doing it to mine about 10 years ago. The FSM has a procedure for removing it with the engine in the car you only have raise the engine about 2 inches to clear the k-member.
 
TrailBeast said:
Yes, but it's WAY easier to pull it.
Otherwise your engine gets unbolted and jacked up till you break your distributor cap, and then the trans comes out.
The flywheel gets removed so that when you lay under the car trying to remove the oil pump by reaching inside the pan to unbolt and remove the oilpump and pump shaft without being able to see it, so the pan will come off to change the gaskets.

See what I mean?
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None of what he wrote applies to a slant six in any way.
 
I'm not ignoring you. I'm gonna give you a call sometime this weekend. I need to get home tonight and get some Southern Comfort in me and I may call then. lol Today has NOT been fun.
 
No worries I fully understand the need for a stiff drink. I plan on going home cracking a beer and sanding my fender.
 
sandin my fender.....you know, that could have an entirely different meaning. LMAOROTF
 
You don't need a cherry picker to lift the engine. You can jack from below. Unbolt the motor mounts. On a SB, you can lift w/ a rod in a hole in the block, but not much to push against on a slant other than the oil pan, so use some 2x6 wood and newspapers to not mar it. Take the distributor cap & rotor off (cover w/ bag). Watch that the transmission doesn't jam against the tunnel. Once up, support w/ wood blocks between the mounts and K-frame. If still not enough room, you can drop the K-frame a bit by loosening the 4 bolts.
 
BillGrissom said:
You don't need a cherry picker to lift the engine. You can jack from below. Unbolt the motor mounts. On a SB, you can lift w/ a rod in a hole in the block, but not much to push against on a slant other than the oil pan, so use some 2x6 wood and newspapers to not mar it. Take the distributor cap & rotor off (cover w/ bag). Watch that the transmission doesn't jam against the tunnel. Once up, support w/ wood blocks between the mounts and K-frame. If still not enough room, you can drop the K-frame a bit by loosening the 4 bolts.
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If you are supporting the engine with a block of wood between the mount and the k-member wouldn't lowering the k lower the engine the same amount?O:)

I think I used a pair of 2X4's when I did my valiant, and I really don't remember it being that bad of a job.
 
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