SM Head Install... forgetting anything?

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DentalDart

DentalDart

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Shop told me my heads will be done today. Garage is cleaned and Dart pulled in. Am I forgetting anything before I start taking the Dart apart?

I got- head bolts, gaskets, RTV blue (this is the good stuff that was recommended by my good friend @70aarcuda), fluids oil/coolant/transmission, got tools, and new spark plug wires so I dont get made fun of for my manismatched wires more lol.

I need a new throttle and kickdown holder for the carb and new plug wire holders... any suggestions on the throttle/KD cable holders. I dont want to search right now, asking is easier...

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Remove the block plugs on each side and drain so you don’t get coolant osode the cylinders. Then you don’t have to waste time cleaning it out of where it doesn’t belong. 9/16” Six point socket is your friend.

RTV blue is always whats on things that are leaking and need fixed. Could be operator error, but why is it never any other color? It is the last thing I’d ever use.

permatex black RTV or the right stuff has always been good.
 
Brake clean and lint free towels. Oil and a filter change for after the install.
 
Aah forgot the oil filter! Thanks @TT5.9mag Its because I couldnt remember what size oil filter I needed and have to look it up. There is a short one that works better with the 90 filter relocation and headers.
 
I like arp thread lube and loctite brand sealer for bolts that go into water jackets.
 
@413 RTV blue is the good stuff that Prevents leaks  only leak ive had since using it last time was on my transmission seal where the DS goes in... apparently I should of used the RTV blue there as well... lets see it try to leak now!

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RTV blue is crap. Worked in shops and dealerships. It was usually on the leaking parts. And it just peels off by hand, leiitle effort to get the flanges clean again. But yeah it could be operator error, not much sticks to oil or antifreeze. YMMV
 
@413 I'm sorry you're had bad luck with blue RTV in the past... maybe you had leaks after using it due to...operator error? Almost 2 years driving the piss out of it later with 3.5 months of being a daily driver and um... no leaks present where blue rtv was used...

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My go to is the ultra black.
Rocker shafts go one way.
 
DentalDart said:
@413 RTV blue is the good stuff that Prevents leaks  only leak ive had since using it last time was on my transmission seal where the DS goes in... apparently I should of used the RTV blue there as well... lets see it try to leak now!

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If the RTV was where it needed to be, it wouldn't have to be gooped outside ;) LOL.
The bore the seal goes into should have a very very very light coat of sealer. I've successfully used orange loctite, and all grades of rtv there. The interference fit should be enough, but sometimes they weep if the bore is scratched or damaged or the seal wasn't driven in straight.
 
Intake gaskets; check the alignment before installing. Put the cheap oil in for the initial run.
 
413 said:
Remove the block plugs on each side and drain so you don’t get coolant inside the cylinders. Then you don’t have to waste time cleaning it out of where it doesn’t belong. 9/16” Six point socket is your friend.
Click to expand...

If you remove the block plugs to drain the block, then I suggest you replace the plugs with petcocks (like a radiator drain) rather than just putting the plugs back in.
That will make it much easier to drain your block the next time you need to.
 
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On the side I’m working on I turn the engine over and try to stop when the pistons are below the block deck. Before head install I clean the block deck and head surface with laquire thinner so it is absolutely oil and water free. If the heads were never used before I test fit the heads on the dial pins to make sure the heads sit flush and the dial pins don’t bottom out. It’s very easy to crack a head if there’s a burr or not drilled deep enough
 
413 said:
Remove the block plugs on each side and drain so you don’t get coolant osode the cylinders. Then you don’t have to waste time cleaning it out of where it doesn’t belong. 9/16” Six point socket is your friend.

RTV blue is always whats on things that are leaking and need fixed. Could be operator error, but why is it never any other color? It is the last thing I’d ever use.

permatex black RTV or the right stuff has always been good.
Click to expand...
That was my first thought...' RTV blue??'
Black, grey, copper...all better than water pump blue. Blue is great on water pumps...but the intake is exposed to the crankcase oil and its higher temps.
 
Got everything taken apart. Maybe I should have drained the block like I was advised to do... ended up with antifreeze all in the cylinders, but luckily I drained the oil and planned on changing it after running it for a little bit. We started putting it back together. I did run into a problem. The metal hose on the back of the power steering pump sticks out to far and hits the cylinder heads when the ps pulley is tight for the belt.

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What brand of heads are those? I'm getting ready to install a set of Promaxx on my 360LA and I'm concerned about the Vintage Air compressor mount.. but I have power steering as well.
 
74Scooter said:
What brand of heads are those? I'm getting ready to install a set of Promaxx on my 360LA and I'm concerned about the Vintage Air compressor mount.. but I have power steering as well.
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These are speedmaster cnc heads
 
DentalDart said:
Got everything taken apart. Maybe I should have drained the block like I was advised to do... ended up with antifreeze all in the cylinders, but luckily I drained the oil and planned on changing it after running it for a little bit. We started putting it back together. I did run into a problem. The metal hose on the back of the power steering pump sticks out to far and hits the cylinder heads when the ps pulley is tight for the belt.

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Simply [ Murphy's Law ] in effect !!!
 
DentalDart said:
. The metal hose on the back of the power steering pump sticks out to far and hits the cylinder heads when the ps pulley is tight for the belt.
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Get a slightly longer belt.. I bet most folks are running random length belts for clearance or other reasons ;)
 
Ok 1 more dumb queation... these are the 2 spots for the longer ARP bolts correct. Also most say to torque them down to 95 ft lbs, but arp directions say 100 ft lbs... so which is it?

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It depends on what you use for thread lubricant. With arp lube the torque spec will be much lower than 30wt oil and that will be lower than with nothing at all.
 
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