Small block 360 cam choice

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I was going to respond, but I’m just tired of arguing about it.

Every cam grinder in America could supply a suitable cam for the OP’s build.
Whether they offer .904 specific lobes or not.
Agreed in full.

Talk to a wall for a better response and conversation
 
What's up with these Bullet Cams I hear about and also the Elgin cans?
So what the overlap mean and how is it determined? I'm learning and is there a certain overlap for a certain combo you need?
In Lamens...how long both int and exh valves are held open, helps higher rpm power, more o lap higher operating rpm...but it bleeds off cranking psi more o lap= higher rpm power/scavenging, less o lap...lower operating rpm range.
Typically , If you look at cam specs...smaller cam, less over lap...bigger cam more over lap

You are building a weekend cruiser, torque machine that wants a range like idle -5500 rpm...meaning torque range..it will rpm 'horsepower ' beyond that ..so dont trip out on the advertised peak rpm. How far beyond depends on a few things...but just stop over thinking it and dont put a big cam in it, if you do it will be like a fat woman climbing the stairs...overlabored
I partially was confused.. as in another thread someone was asking the same but more a towing deal, unless you edited the opening post and thats what happened.
Ive now changed my mind...put a .484 mp in it 4+ adv and live with it.
Good luck.

Now I see why others are tired of it.
 
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If I didn’t know better, I’d say the article seems to be saying that pointy nose Chevy cam worked pretty well in that low CR 360.
 
Don't get the need to over complicate cam choices at this level, And it's more of a personal choice, Most Mods are a series of compromises, and we each have our own unique levels of compromise. Plus at the OP setup is a hard one to overly screw up, a 360 that has some gear & stall guessing in relative light car, low cr is the only negative I see, wanting a reasonably mild cam. Most cams in this range are gonna have about the same 2000-4000 rpm power, under 2000 rpm they will very but he has gears and stall to help there, above 4000 rpm doesn't matter all that much daily on the street, so Eg.. xe250 vs xe 256 vs xe 262 vs xe 268 are probable gonna be 10-15 hp difference between them and under 2000 rpm softing up as you go bigger.
 
"335 hp and 392 ftlbs on tap in a combo
we think will pass the sniffer/smog..."

No follow up?

I'd be surprised if it passed smog, or by much.
 
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So is this accurate for a 340 grind that would work good in my. Low compression 360?

Also would I benefit from a solid cam rather than hydraulic? I have a set of 273 rockers and push rods setting on my shelf currently I haven't used yet. View attachment 1715556435

Yup. That's the 340 cam. Good luck finding one for one thing and two, I wouldn't use it in a low compression 318 either......unless I already had it and just HAD to. I would advance it farther than the card said. But I would just pick another grind.
 
I was going to respond, but I’m just tired of arguing about it.

Every cam grinder in America could supply a suitable cam for the OP’s build.
Whether they offer .904 specific lobes or not.

Right. After awhile it gets old. Somebody asks for help and then argues you in the GROUND why that's a good recommendation. Screw it.
 
To the OP I'd first decide how important under 2000 rpm is to you?
If very, go with something like xe250 if not, go xe268, or somewhat, go with something in between.

I'd go with something like the Comp xe262, so I find all the similar grinds form the various companies and different cam lines in the same companies and narrow the choice from them.
 



Cams factory vs xe 250 vs xe 268

To the OP I'd first decide how important under 2000 rpm is to you?
If very, go with something like xe250 if not, go xe268, or somewhat, go with something in between.

I'd go with something like the Comp xe262, so I find all the similar grinds form the various companies and different cam lines in the same companies and narrow the choice from them.
I'm. Thinking the 268 may be perfect for what I'm looking for.. I would be happy with 300-350 hp at crank. I can almost build motor in video you posted above with what I got minus the cam.
 
108 lsa cam installed at 102... where's the low end loss? Oh wait, that's the same thing being done for 40 years and what those new fangled thmpr and whiplash cams are doing.

Jeez this broken record stuff. Most of the crappy low end performance is ALL in the tune where most people don't have any idea how or what to do. Oh the book says 5 BTDC for timing... yep, runs like ****, bad cam choice. Seen it what seems like a millions times.

XE262-268 or the voodoo 700-703 would likely work OK. Just make sure you degree it in and I would maybe move it forward to 104 ICL on the larger of those grinds.
 
108 lsa cam installed at 102... where's the low end loss? Oh wait, that's the same thing being done for 40 years and what those new fangled thmpr and whiplash cams are doing.

Jeez this broken record stuff. Most of the crappy low end performance is ALL in the tune where most people don't have any idea how or what to do. Oh the book says 5 BTDC for timing... yep, runs like ****, bad cam choice. Seen it what seems like a millions times.

XE262-268 or the voodoo 700-703 would likely work OK. Just make sure you degree it in and I would maybe move it forward to 104 ICL on the larger of those grinds.


Think the same for carbs lot's of poorly setup holley 750 carbs out there, made everyone scared of over carbing ?
 
Let's not get sidetracked by the facts
The Lunati line is better than the comp line
The lunati HE line is the .842 UD harold lobes which are later than the comp h lobes
The lunati Street Master line are even older Joe Lunati lobes as are the Bracket master lobes
The street strip lobes are very early lobes
The Dodge Voodoo lobes have exactly the same design as the High Efficiency lobes but are optimized for Dodge not chevy
Why do you guys always want to shoot yourselves in the foot?
The Lunati Voodoo line is the best and most cost effective line for MOPAR
you want a more agressive cam go Howard or the comp XE-HL
less agressive go Engle or MP
 
Look at the TQ levels on the small cam, RV cam and the xe268H lazy *** cam in the video. Notice anything about the bottom end range? It's all so close that you wouldn't know it. Not as though it's a two stroke chainsaw engine that is comparable to an on/off switch. Better cylinder filling from the heads makes a difference. Fill it and squish it.

If you want something choppy at idle, get a 106-108 lsa... they are out there. Install it ahead and the low end will be there. Anything up to about 230 @ .050 should be fine. Low compression engine, wind that thing forward to 102.
 
Think the same for carbs lot's of poorly setup holley 750 carbs out there, made everyone scared of over carbing ?
my 318 has stock bottom end, summit 290 cam 0.501 lift,long tubes, stock dizzy set up mechanical
Let's not get sidetracked by the facts
The Lunati line is better than the comp line
The lunati HE line is the .842 UD harold lobes which are later than the comp h lobes
The lunati Street Master line are even older Joe Lunati lobes as are the Bracket master lobes
The street strip lobes are very early lobes
The Dodge Voodoo lobes have exactly the same design as the High Efficiency lobes but are optimized for Dodge not chevy
Why do you guys always want to shoot yourselves in the foot?
The Lunati Voodoo line is the best and most cost effective line for MOPAR
you want a more agressive cam go Howard or the comp XE-HL
less agressive go Engle or MP
Problem with Lunati is they want double springs with all there grinds. I don't want to have to have heads cut down for those and positive seals.
 
See now, all this run a mopar 904 lifter cam stuff goes out the window... He doesn't want to do anything to the heads for spring fit.

NEXT!!!
 
See now, all this run a mopar 904 lifter cam stuff goes out the window... He doesn't want to do anything to the heads for spring fit.

NEXT!!!
i cant afford to have it done, not that i dont want to. im building this on a minimalism budget.. saving here and there just to gather parts. im not looking to build a drag car.. something stronger than my 318 and runs decent. even poor people have dreams, but alot of times we cant reach them so we have to settle for cheaper routes
 
I get it... nobody will spend your money like other people will in this arena!!!

The comp XE256-268 run a single spring. They can be a bit noisy. There are so many cams that will fit your deal, just pick something that is in the 450-460 lift range and 220-230 @.050 duration and should be good to go. I'd prefer something on a 108LSA and install it at 102-104. Make plenty of low end grunt and run fine to the low-mid 5K RPM range.
 
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I get it... nobody will spend your money like other people will in this arena!!!

The comp XE256-268 run a single spring. They can be a bit noisy. There are so many cams that will fit your deal, just pick something that is in the 450-460 lift range and 220-230 @.050 duration and should be good to go. I'd prefer something on a 108LSA and install it at 102-104. Make plenty of low end grunt and run fine to the low-mid 5K RPM range.
Thats all I will need. Should be plenty.
 
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