Small Block car DIY Oil Pan Baffle - big block truck pan re-purpose!

-

4mulas

Fixem'up
Joined
Dec 23, 2006
Messages
1,036
Reaction score
759
Location
Pacific Northwest
After much shopping around and internet research I’m happy to report I just decided to make my own oil pan baffle instead of spending hard earned dollars on substandard offerings out there. Seems like there are a lot of inferior pans available these days, some good ones too though But certainly not inexpensive, this especially for us Canadians that have to factor in exchange rate from CDN to USA bucks , shipping, and potential brokerage charges etc….

I’m also MOST happy that I have found a use for all those big block truck oil pans that I had laying around too! (I wish I didn’t toss a few of them out now! lol). When I decided to tackle making my own baffle I started to look around for appropriate tin to use for the job. I couldn’t find anything ‘good’ lying around and because I’m cheap I didn’t want to spend gas dollars driving to the local metal place to be charged too much for a chunk of scrap tin, this is when I looked across the shop and saw the BB truck pan lying in a dusty corner. Wait a minute what better material for a baffle than an actual oil pan! Well low and behold I did some quick measuring and as it turns out the distance across the flat part of th truck pan is close to 8” and the distance inside the small block 392 pan (for my 402 sb motor) is 8”. BINGO!!

The work begins. I started by zip cutting the pan rail off the big block pan being careful to leave the factory bend of the big block pan in place, and then by cutting the sump off from the long flat part I wanted to use. A little figuring later and by use of a stencil I made I had the rough shape for the baffle formed. Once I had the base form I laid it in the SB pan and did some more ‘figuring’ and fine tuned the base form to the what is the final shape.

Next up, after looking at a bunch of internet pictures of various baffles and from holding a pick up tube by hand as closely to what I thought the installed position of it should/would be I made some markings and began to cut the opening for the pick up tube and then lastly the oil dipstick tube…. A little hammering and tweaking to make a nice snug fit and this is the end result. Also did a little dimpling in three spots to allow for ‘extra’ oil returning faster. What doesn’t want to travel through the dimples will just flow back into the sump over and around the openings and the sides of the new custom baffle I’ve made. Which is another reason why I wouldn’t want to weld all around the baffle. It only really needs to be held in place in a few spots. It’s okay to have gaps and spaces as it promotes faster oil return.

Today I’ll remove my supplied by mother Mopar on the P crate motor 8 quart oil pan (which k believe is a good earlier moroso unit), then gorilla tape my custom baffle into the new pan and do some test fitting and trimming/adjustments if required. It should be okay but if minor adjustments are required so be it. Once all is verified good a few strategic tack welds around the baffle and I’ll be done! Paint er’ up, and install a new magnum style gasket - with the exception of the timing cover bit which I will cut out of the one piece magnum gasket and use the standard 360 one And it will finally be done.

FullSizeRender.jpeg


IMG_3596.jpeg


IMG_3592.jpeg


FullSizeRender.jpeg


IMG_3599.jpeg


IMG_3597.jpeg


IMG_3680.jpeg


IMG_3681.jpeg


IMG_3682.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I like it!

Make sure you check that your dipstick doesn't crash into the baffle. Mine didn't fit the first time.

I like the wrinkles in the rear edges, looks like something the factory would have done if they had made a baffled pan.
 
Last edited:
Looks great! You can fab a heck of a lot better than I can!
 
I always bolt them to a block while welding, you hotrodder you.
I applaud your desire to build insteada buy, good on ya .
 
Last edited:
This is a great post with a lot of detail and even good pics of the progress!
Looks like a good winter project for a few of us...
 
Test fit went well, clears everything and dipstick works as it should. Slight wiggle to get it past the pickup and tube (not much) but once down does not come into contact with anything. A few welds and we’re ready for primer and paint and ready for reassembly.

IMG_4612.jpeg
 
Curious if you checked the oil level before setting the baffle depth. I put 3 quarts of water in my pan and then matched that for a baffle depth based on an old Ehrenburg article.

I don't know that it really matters a bunch, just curious if you did anything similar.
 
I've found a pickup tube near worn thru from contact with similar, check for witness marks on tube etc before you button it up, imho .
Jiggle the pan on loose bolts to see where it might move when tightened .
Good work .
 
I did the same with my oil pan for the 360 on the stand, I still need to put a hole in the baffle for the dipstick.

Baffle welded in.jpg


Fitting Baffle.jpg


Freshly Sprayed Paint.jpg


Finshed Paint.jpg



Here is a template that can be printed an transferred to a piece of thin cardboard(I used a cereal box.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160522_0003.pdf
    93.9 KB · Views: 77
I've found a pickup tube near worn thru from contact with similar, check for witness marks on tube etc before you button it up, imho .
Jiggle the pan on loose bolts to see where it might move when tightened .
Good work .
That’s good advice.

the real threat is side clearance where the cut out for tube is, If it clears it it clears. vertically it won’t get any closer once it’s bolted down if you know what I mean. for others that are doing this, when I test fit the pan once it was in place, laying in place on the block I moved the pan side to side and front to back with no bolts in place, and had at least 1/4" before anything stopped (hit anything) indicating good clearance all around. When it did hit things it wasn’t the baffle. It would stop on the oil pump and main caps and other stuff etc first.
 
Curious if you checked the oil level before setting the baffle depth. I put 3 quarts of water in my pan and then matched that for a baffle depth based on an old Ehrenburg article.

I don't know that it really matters a bunch, just curious if you did anything similar.

I did. Three quarts already goes above the baffle, four quarts way over it and we’ll into the pan.

you wouldn’t want to make the baffle as high as the level of oil in the pan with 3 or 4 quarts in it as your baffle would be so high it would likely hit the crank. Keep in mind, 1 litre in the filter, and how much oil is not in the pan just from ciculation? 1.5 - 2 litres? I don’t know. In fact if anyone here know how much oil is actually ‘in use’ while the engine is running I’d like to know.

‘’the idea of the baffle is to keep the oil around the pick up Under high g’s side To side or fro t to back. You should almost always have about 2 quarts in the bottom of the sump and around the pick up in my guesstimation.
 
I did. Three quarts already goes above the baffle, four quarts way over it and we’ll into the pan.

you wouldn’t want to make the baffle as high as the level of oil in the pan with 3 or 4 quarts in it as your baffle would be so high it would likely hit the crank. Keep in mind, 1 litre in the filter, and how much oil is not in the pan just from ciculation? 1.5 - 2 litres? I don’t know. In fact if anyone here know how much oil is actually ‘in use’ while the engine is running I’d like to know.

‘’the idea of the baffle is to keep the oil around the pick up Under high g’s side To side or fro t to back. You should almost always have about 2 quarts in the bottom of the sump and around the pick up in my guesstimation.

I wonder if Ehrenburg's process is based on his recommendation to only put 4 quarts in the pan. I guess he thinks that is enough oil to avoid starving the pump but keeps the oil level away from the crank. Not really sure. Been awhile since I read the article.
 
I wonder if Ehrenburg's process is based on his recommendation to only put 4 quarts in the pan. I guess he thinks that is enough oil to avoid starving the pump but keeps the oil level away from the crank. Not really sure. Been awhile since I read the article.
Not sure. Haven’t read or heard his gospel before. But if you built it according to the height/level with 4 quarts in there I’m pretty sure stuff would hitting it and creating havoc.
 
Not sure. Haven’t read or heard his gospel before.

There are mixed feelings with his stuff. For the most part I like his tech, but he certainly isn't infallible.

But if you built it according to the height/level with 4 quarts in there I’m pretty sure stuff would hitting it and creating havoc.

No argument there.

And I'm not saying you did it wrong. Ehrenburg's was just one take on the process and I was just curious how it compared.

Love the baffle, much better than mine came out.
 
There are mixed feelings with his stuff. For the most part I like his tech, but he certainly isn't infallible.



No argument there.

And I'm not saying you did it wrong. Ehrenburg's was just one take on the process and I was just curious how it compared.

Love the baffle, much better than mine came out.
Google motortrend’s diy oil pan baffle on mopars. Dulcich does a small block one there, which I took a lot of inspiration from. Have also seen others as mine and likes the design so that’s why I went with it. The thing that jazzed me was re-purposing a big block truck pan I had laying around that I had Zero use for!! I love free ****!

No matter how you do it be it a simple strip across the back of the sump of more the idea is to just keep oil around the pick up. I’m sure yours is good too!
 
-
Back
Top