Small block intake gaskets

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Hoophoop

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What are the best sealing intake gaskets in your opinion, I'm not having much luck with cork...
 
Cork intake gaskets?!?!

Grab a set of Fel-Pro's, I haven't had an issue with them.
 
Or do you mean the cork Valley gaskets for front and rear?
Is so, throw them in the bin, clean the manifold and block with solvent. And put a nice fat bead of rtv instead of the gasket.
Sit the manifold down and tighten. Leave overnight before starting. Best thing you will ever do lol
 
Or do you mean the cork Valley gaskets for front and rear?
Is so, throw them in the bin, clean the manifold and block with solvent. And put a nice fat bead of rtv instead of the gasket.
Sit the manifold down and tighten. Leave overnight before starting. Best thing you will ever do lol
Yes sir!
 
Trade the RTV for "The Right Stuff " it's approved for use by all manufacturers and you don't have to wait overnight to drive the car .
 
Sorry, yes I ,meant valley gaskets....lol


HA! I never even gave those a thought.

What intake are you installing? If aftermarket, have you removed the locating pins?

I have used the cork on both intakes I have installed, with a bit of sealant and have had no problems. A generous bead of silicone/Right Stuff will work as mentioned.
 
Or do you mean the cork Valley gaskets for front and rear?
Is so, throw them in the bin, clean the manifold and block with solvent. And put a nice fat bead of rtv instead of the gasket.
Sit the manifold down and tighten. Leave overnight before starting. Best thing you will ever do lol
Right you are!
 
I just took apart a 408 stroker I bought. Aluminum intake and the dowel pins still installed. Silicone all over to stop the leak. Lol
 
OP, do you have a PCV or breathers in your engine? If not, then crankcase pressures may be blowing out oil past the gaskets.

As for Bad Sport, we are doing fine with cork end gaskets. It seems to depend on the whole block, head and intake combo, and how much any machining may have effected the front and rear valley gaps. We have all new parts and the gap is right for cork gaskets to work. But I can see machined parts having a much smaller gap.

I like the pix someone posted of his buddy standing on the top of the intake to get the gaskets to compress LOL
 
OP, do you have a PCV or breathers in your engine? If not, then crankcase pressures may be blowing out oil past the gaskets.

As for Bad Sport, we are doing fine with cork end gaskets. It seems to depend on the whole block, head and intake combo, and how much any machining may have effected the front and rear valley gaps. We have all new parts and the gap is right for cork gaskets to work. But I can see machined parts having a much smaller gap.

I like the pix someone posted of his buddy standing on the top of the intake to get the gaskets to compress LOL
Agreed, the cork will seal with some cement but the problem is is that depending on your milling the cork may be too thin or too thick (likely too thick) & it will appear to clamp down but the intake might not be clamped down tight enough & over time the water ports can leak from that.
"The right stuff" gasket maker is Gods' gift to us mechanics & only caveat is to use as much or as little as needed (it ain't cheap tho) & clean the overhang mess up right there on the spot before it hardens. I use it on stat housings along with the gasket as alot of stat housings have too thin of flanges & need help.
 
I do not have a PCV valve setup, I'm running K&N filters (breathers) on both valve covers, I was getting some blow by till the rings seated, should I be running a PCV? I'm running a XP Holley 850 with no port for PCV under carb like an Edelbrock, also running an Air Gap Edelbrock manifold with really no center port to hook up for PCV.
 
As for the PCV, if you are street driving, it would be an aid to reduce crankcase pressures, and to keeping the crankcase cleaner. You'd have to drill and tap the intake for a connection port. Depending on the cam and idle vacuum levels, you would need to pick a PCV that closed down to the lower idle air flow at the idle vacuum that you have.
 
you can also get or make a carb spacer with a vac port on it so your spreading the waste around a little instead of just dumping it into a single runner .
 
Cork ALWAYS eventually leaks/seeps, but sealant never does.
 
you can also get or make a carb spacer with a vac port on it so your spreading the waste around a little instead of just dumping it into a single runner .
Can not do a spacer, air cleaner already has minimum clearance when closing hood.
 
Can not do a spacer, air cleaner already has minimum clearance when closing hood.
Are you using a drop down air cleaner base ? You can get the cheapo chrome air cleaner kit with drop base and just use the base . May have to dimple it for your linkage a little bit but it will gain you an inch or more of clearance .
 
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