Small block strength

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So were 360s actually overbored 318s with a longer stroke in an effort to save production costs or were they always different blocks? I know the 318 came first, but I'm just thinking by the roller cam era it would have been a 'common block' design.
 
OleNatesOlds said:
So were 360s actually overbored 318s with a longer stroke in an effort to save production costs or were they always different blocks? I know the 318 came first, but I'm just thinking by the roller cam era it would have been a 'common block' design.
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A 360 is it's own block casting. They are all very similar just as all of the SB chevies are similiar but yet they're their own individual casting.
 
Based on what you all have seen, which small blocks have:

1. the thickest main bearing saddles/webbing? (In a magazine article linked on this site there was an older 318 being built up and it looked like it could be fitted with 4 bolt mains!?)

2. the thickest cylinder walls? (I think someone already voiced their opinion on an '89 LA 360 block.)

3. the most consistent wall thickness or least core shift? (Later blocks because of machining improvements?)

4. the stoutest cam valley? (Did chrysler ever make sb without those huge windows in the cam webbing?)

or is there a book on all this stuff I should pick up?

Thanks
 
I had a 360 with a casting date of 6/18/70. We bored it .100 over and it never ran hot. But we were just going on being told that they were "under bored 340's". LOL. That was '89 or '90. Last I heard it was still running in a buddys Cordoba in the city. The pistons cost $800 back then! Arias I believe.
I spent 4 hrs trying to convince him they made a '70 360. Don't think he ever really believed us. 10.5 to 1 compression flat tops. The first short skirt piston I had ever seen.
 
OleNatesOlds said:
Based on what you all have seen, which small blocks have:

1. the thickest main bearing saddles/webbing? (In a magazine article linked on this site there was an older 318 being built up and it looked like it could be fitted with 4 bolt mains!?) As mentioned, A total waste of time on any stock production mopar block except maybe a T/A

2. the thickest cylinder walls? (I think someone already voiced their opinion on an '89 LA 360 block.) Crapshoot and only way to now is to sonic check a block

3. the most consistent wall thickness or least core shift? (Later blocks because of machining improvements?) Good luck with that... was it a monday, friday or someday in between.

4. the stoutest cam valley? (Did chrysler ever make sb without those huge windows in the cam webbing?)

or is there a book on all this stuff I should pick up?

Thanks
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If you want stout, a factory production block isn't your answer. You'll want an X or R block.

Some books are good, some are horrible. I mean, one says you can't use a stock block over 400hp... total hogwash!
 
OleNatesOlds said:
Based on what you all have seen, which small blocks have:

1. the thickest main bearing saddles/webbing? (In a magazine article linked on this site there was an older 318 being built up and it looked like it could be fitted with 4 bolt mains!?)

They are all identical in the main webbing areas. As was said, only the TA block had enough meat added for 4bolt mains, so adding them to any production block weakens the webbing overall.

2. the thickest cylinder walls? (I think someone already voiced their opinion on an '89 LA 360 block.)

It's a misnomer. Mopar had blocks they wanted to be thick. Those in LAs were the early 360s (71 cast only) Some earlier 318 blocks have thick walls too. But the only way to know for sure is to sonic test. If your shop doesnt have one and know how to use it then go somewhere else. Two of the thickest blocks I've ever tested are the '89LA 360 I'm working on now and a '73 340 block I did two years ago.

3. the most consistent wall thickness or least core shift? (Later blocks because of machining improvements?)

The later blocks seem to be the best for core quality. But the iron is not as thick overall (better castings=less iron needed). The best bet is an earlier block with no shift. Again, this cannot be seen without sonic testing.

4. the stoutest cam valley? (Did chrysler ever make sb without those huge windows in the cam webbing?)

No. And IMO there's no reason to. They dont split there very often. Most blocks you see with the covered cam tunnel is for oil control (windage) not strength.


or is there a book on all this stuff I should pick up?

There are a bunch, but some of them have the same misleading info in them. So I'd say buy anything that catches your eye, read them all, and research things. One of my best books is oil soaked and dog eared and I bought it in 1986. The latest book (Szylagi's.. sorry for the name butchering) is good, but like many leans too heavy on MP parts and leaves some things out.

Thanks
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How DO you guys get colored text... I can't figure that out after all these friggin posts!!!
 
moper said:
How DO you guys get colored text... I can't figure that out after all these friggin posts!!!
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Above the text box you type your response in, there is an "A" with a fat underline right after the fonts/sizes, click on it and a color pallet will come up, click on color and type in between the hypertext coding.
 
i got a 318 and it stands good evreystart and parts are pretty cheap forem . idk what ur budget is but 318 are easyto get ahold of i got a spare 318 and spare 360 the 318 was pulled running the 360 was in my car before the 318 and it has a blown valve my 2 cents
 
moper said:
How DO you guys get colored text... I can't figure that out after all these friggin posts!!!
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Like CB said, and another thing you can do to make your text stand out is highlight it. All you do is click on the "B" right above the message box on the left side. Then when you type it's in bold. There are all sorts of things you can do with the functions above the message box. If you hold your pointer over each icon for a second or two it'll display what that function does.
 
I dont get that when i open a reply box... Nothing but an option to add a smilie to the post...
 
crackedback said:
If you want stout, a factory production block isn't your answer. You'll want an X or R block.

Some books are good, some are horrible. I mean, one says you can't use a stock block over 400hp... total hogwash!
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I agree. A small block can support 750 h.p if you turbo it. What book was that?
 
Like others here I am going to recommend MY personal opinion.
The BEST allaround factory cast Small Block IMHO will be a 88-91 LA Roller Cam 360, only found in Dodge D250, B250, or heavy duty Ramcharger 4x4's, 4x4 D150 trucks or Big vans.

They have a number of previously mentioned benefits.

308 heads
Roller Cam
LA Casting and hardware

The kicker is the limited year range....88-91.
Kinda hard to find a salvage vehicle that hasn't already been pieced out.

Good Luck which ever way you go.
 
Im in crossville about an hour away from you, the only motor i got thats not in a car is a 71 318 motor, and a 78 318 block, but i know someone in springcity about 30 or 45 mins away from knoxville, that has a couple of 400s
 
just a thought.... engine masters magazine did a la 318 with mostly stock internals with the exception of a set of smog 360 smog heads, and about 10.1 pistons to get over 400 hp on a tight budget. just depends on how much you want to spend.
 
Prine said:
Like others here I am going to recommend MY personal opinion.
The BEST allaround factory cast Small Block IMHO will be a 88-91 LA Roller Cam 360, only found in Dodge D250, B250, or heavy duty Ramcharger 4x4's, 4x4 D150 trucks or Big vans.

They have a number of previously mentioned benefits.

308 heads
Roller Cam
LA Casting and hardware

The kicker is the limited year range....88-91.
Kinda hard to find a salvage vehicle that hasn't already been pieced out.

Good Luck which ever way you go.
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Probably be way better off getting a magnum block.If you really wanted shaft rockers you could put RHS heads on.
 
nothin wrong with seasoned blocks. head and main studs, steel crank, h-beam rods, and a complete check over and your good to go. i've seen 360's (early/late makes no difference) that'll take a .070+ overbore no problem. hell my buddies stock block chev 350 has been living for years now with a 6-71 supercharger making 550+hp in a heavy 73 lemans. i wouldn't worry bout a stock mopar smallblock for anything under 600 horse. beyond that and if your still considering using a stock block.. then your meds aren't doing its job.
 
If your talking building on a budget then the X or R block are out they're going for $2800.00 new..there is nothing wrong with a seasoned late '60 or early '70's 340 or early '70's 360 blocks,plenty of guys running the snot out of these pushing some serious power at the track.Don't get me wrong if my budget allowed it i'd buy a X or an R block in a minute,but i don't have a "moneytree" an you can still find 340 blocks for $400-$500 and 360's even cheaper put the money saved into other components...
 
Oh,my bad. He'll just have to use horrible Magnum EQ's then,lol...:)
 
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