Yeah but that's unrestricted.
Smoking after gas in oil
- Thread starter standup303
- Start date
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If there was a hole in the diaphragm and it was just syphoning into the crank case over time.
The point is a mechanical fuel pump can move a lot of fuel over a short amount of time.
If i had 1/2 quart of fuel pour out of exhaust, the carb and fuel pump would be REMOVED
Regardless of whether the carburetor is new out of the box or not, you HAVE a fuel delivery problem. FIX that problem FIRST, before you destroy the engine, if you haven't already. That much fuel washed the rings and cylinders, not to mention the cam, main and rod bearings. you are lucky it didn't fire past the rings and exploded like a huge hand grenade.
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standup303
Well-Known Member
I’ll know more after compression test tonight.
Before you run the compression test, squirt 30wt oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand at least 10 revolutions. The rings may of may not reseat when you crank it back up.
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
I was going to suggest a little transmission fluid in each cyl. Due to the detergents. Then oil.
But then again I've haven't seen glazing with modern oils and fuel, only polished bores.
It would be coming back out and back apart for at least a re-hone regardless if it was mine.
One positive I guess, it'll be super clean inside for the re-hone.
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Oh sure, especially if the diaphragm is ruptured. Then there would be no or very little restriction. Sorry, I didn't connect the dots. LOL
standup303
Well-Known Member
Silly thought here….but if a faulty fuel pump can leak fuel into the crank case and completely kill a motor, how has no one made a pump that cannot leak into the engine? No one has ever thought about making a sealed guard so the pump arm is the only thing exposed to the crank case? I’ll tell ya one thing, if my motor is shot because of a fuel pump taking a crap I will be converting to an electric in tank pump.
because it happens so rarely and the "damage" is usually not significant because the engine would be running like crap if at all and the problem would be found rapidly.
NOT to mention it would be LONG out of warrantee by then.
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping the compression test shows positive results against my better judgement.
standup303
Well-Known Member
So honestly my first time ever doing a compression test. Engine was cold and did a few squirts of 10-30 in each spark plug hole and rotated the engine 10 times with my remote starter trigger.
1,3,5,7 side I have the gas coming from header/exhaust joint. I think I can get more compression out of this side by bumping the starter more but this is it for now until the battery gets some more charge.
1 172
3 175
5 165
7 160
2 182
4 182
6 187
8 162 (battery started to die on this one)
Even with a few 160psi, all cylinders are within 15% of each other.
I’ll do it again in the morning.
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standup303
Well-Known Member
With it being my first time…I had gas spraying out of spark plug holes as I was testing, messy job. I threw a clamp on the fuel line to try to minimize but didn’t really help. Is that normal? Did have throttle held open whole time too.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Whatever you do, do NOT turn the engine with the key because that turns on the ignition.
You don’t need a rogue spark blasting your *** to legendary status.
Also, don’t jump the starter relay with a screwdriver. It makes sparks like Jack the Bear.
Use a real starter bump switch.
You don’t need a rogue spark blasting your *** to legendary status.
Also, don’t jump the starter relay with a screwdriver. It makes sparks like Jack the Bear.
Use a real starter bump switch.
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Deltatech
Well-Known Member
I usually disconnected the fuel line at the carb and plug or stuck a bolt and clamp on it.
I'd say you're safe besides If bank 1 is polished/"glazed" there is nothing else but to tear it down and re hone.
I'd clean the plugs,throw fresh oil and filter in it and run it up to temp a few times after letting the excess fuel evaporate.
Drive it till it quits smoking. Keeping a very close eye on oil level.
Good luck!!!
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standup303
Well-Known Member
To legendary status lol. 10-4 thanks for the tips
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Yep I'm the AI version my wife came up with, I'll be here for the century. lol
Did I ever tell you the story about the time I set a metal gas can on top of the battery when I was 14, my neighbor had to put me out with a fire extinguisher.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
just pull the coil wire off and set it aside if using the key. Still a bad idea though.
standup303
Well-Known Member
Took it for a drive and got it up to temp for a bit, was running much better, stumbling a bit but I think that’s a carb tuning issue. Stopped smoking. Got home and changed oil for good measure, still had gas in it, I’d say a quart. Pulled fuel pump and operated by hand, not leaking. My primary float was a bit high, tweaked that down to 1/2 and adjusted fuel pressure down to 6.
I’m going to leave a cup under the oil drain and see if I get any gas over the next day. Not sure what the hell is going on.
I’m going to leave a cup under the oil drain and see if I get any gas over the next day. Not sure what the hell is going on.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
You can drop the fuel pressure down to 5 and it won’t hurt a thing.
You can drop it to 4 if you want, but 5 is a good all around setting.
IMO there is no need to go over 5 psi. It just foams the fuel in the bowl.
IMHO..
Change the fuel pump regardless. operating by hand is in no way the same as being operated by the engine and at engine operating temps. there is only 2 ways fuel gets into the oil. the pump or the carb. and you can look at the carb and see fuel leaking into the manifold while its running. not to mention if that much fuel was coming from the carb there is no way it would run on a get in a up to temp drive 15 minutes?
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