Smoking after gas in oil

[Deltatech]

one ones that run too cold.

I was tracking this train of thought and about to ask what plugs are installed after the fuel issue is sorted..
It's post #27 that shows the plugs, even though we can't read them properly by seeing down inside them were they are actually read we can get a rudimentary idea from what we can see.
I've known plenty of old timers that have read and taught to read plugs in the wrong spot for 50 years.
That's a cycle I'd like to break.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Coming in late, but a bunch of gas in the oil is bad, yes, but very common on engines that just make short trips and never see high oil temps. Also one ones that run too cold. Definitely sounds like over fueling. Everyone's advice here is spot on, carb tuning and pump. Marine engines make oil like crazy when water is cold and people just troll around. Quarts of fuel in oil. Dangerous and will cause damage. But the short run this had likely hasn't hurt anything. Change oil, pump and sort out the carb. Send it

Great point about short trips.

 

[71GSSDemon]

Great point about short trips.

I have been dealing with a particular situation where an engine is making a quart of oil every couple days. Very cold water temps and mostly low speed. Need to get oil temps up and change the oil way more often. People think low speed, short trips, oil coolers etc are saving the motor. So backwards. Oil temps need to be high enough to boil (evaporate) the water and fuel out of it. For my Bonneville adventure, I put in an oil temp gauge as I will have the grill completely closed to start off with. Too high is bad also, obviously

 

[standup303]

Can a deadhead regulator cause a fuel pump to crap out? I have 5/16 line to pump, filter, then deadhead regulator, then carb.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Can a deadhead regulator cause a fuel pump to crap out? I have 5/16 line to pump, filter, then deadhead regulator, then carb.

**** regulators have killed lots of engines.

 

[Deltatech]

The Holley site on choosing a regulator has a good writeup. From the site which applies to this thread.
"
many carbureted engines run just fine with a deadhead-style fuel system. These simple yet effective setups position a pressure regulator in between the fuel pump and carburetor. The column of fuel in the feed line deadheads at the regulator, which then holds pressure at a steady 4.5- to 9 psi between the regulator and the carburetor. In essence, a deadhead regulator is merely a restriction in the fuel line that lowers fuel pressure between the tank and the carburetor by decreasing fuel flow. This works just fine in a 400 horsepower crate motor, but today’s street machines easily produce an additional 100-200 hp.

With this increase in power comes a proportional increase in fuel demand, which places additional strain on the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. In fact, the fuel flow demands of high output engines can completely overwhelm a deadhead regulator’s ability to maintain steady fuel pressure, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>resulting in pressure creep, inconsistent fuel pressure, potential engine flooding, and heat. <<<<<<<<< “Even though the pressure between the regulator and carburetor is just seven psi,>>>> the pressure between the pump and regulator can build up to 15 psi.<<<< That means that the fuel pump is constantly beating on the check valve at 15 psi, which heats up the fuel and can lead to vapor lock,” Zach Baker of Quick Fuel Technology explains."

 

[Newbomb Turk]

The Holley site on choosing a regulator has a good writeup. From the site which applies to this thread.
"
many carbureted engines run just fine with a deadhead-style fuel system. These simple yet effective setups position a pressure regulator in between the fuel pump and carburetor. The column of fuel in the feed line deadheads at the regulator, which then holds pressure at a steady 4.5- to 9 psi between the regulator and the carburetor. In essence, a deadhead regulator is merely a restriction in the fuel line that lowers fuel pressure between the tank and the carburetor by decreasing fuel flow. This works just fine in a 400 horsepower crate motor, but today’s street machines easily produce an additional 100-200 hp.

With this increase in power comes a proportional increase in fuel demand, which places additional strain on the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. In fact, the fuel flow demands of high output engines can completely overwhelm a deadhead regulator’s ability to maintain steady fuel pressure, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>resulting in pressure creep, inconsistent fuel pressure, potential engine flooding, and heat. <<<<<<<<< “Even though the pressure between the regulator and carburetor is just seven psi,>>>> the pressure between the pump and regulator can build up to 15 psi.<<<< That means that the fuel pump is constantly beating on the check valve at 15 psi, which heats up the fuel and can lead to vapor lock,” Zach Baker of Quick Fuel Technology explains."

That’s the LAST place I’d go for technical help regarding anything.

If the regulator says Holley on it, or looks like a Holley regulator it’s a steaming pile of ****.

Holley knew it for decades and didn’t do **** about it. Then other companies started making regulators and Holley got blow out of the water.

How they sell that junk **** to this day is amazing.

Junk is junk at any price.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Can a deadhead regulator cause a fuel pump to crap out? I have 5/16 line to pump, filter, then deadhead regulator, then carb

Not likely

The fuel pump has a spring inside and that is as much pressure it can supply.

If you block off the output of the fuel pump like say the float in the carb raises and closes stops the flow of fuel into the bowels, the diaphragm in the pump stays away from the arm in the pump till the float opens and fuel flows. Then the diaphragm moves and can contact the arm and start the process again

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Oh, please, Drama Queen... What's not true in the writeup?
and how is telling people to not trust true information regardless of their problems with source company's products doing anything but wasting everyone's time.
Proof that the writeup is false or STFU.

First all ding dong, I’ve been doing this a long time, so I’ve been around this ****. And it’s GARBAGE.

Second, horsepower has ZERO effect on when to change a regulator. You can add a second, third or even a fourth regulator, which is what you do with a Holley because they don’t FLOW enough to feed a decent Briggs and Stratton.

So that’s incorrect.

Also, the guy claims the bypass is constantly getting beat on. Thats because the regulator is such a steaming pile of **** that it causes the relief to bounce around. The regulator can’t flow enough. So the bypass opens. Now it catches up and it closes and the cycle repeats.

This should only be a cruise issue, but sadly, it’s not. It will do it at WOT, because the regulator is such a restriction.

The fix is what? You don’t know because you are a bubble gummer? A whiz bang in gym shorts? All of the above?

The fix is you have to BLOCK the bypass in the pump, plumb that steaming pile of **** regulator backwards and use it as a return regulator.

Think I’m wrong smart guy? Look at the cheapest Holley return regulators. That’s EXACTLY what they are. In 1984 we all knew this. Did your Rumplestiltskin *** sleep though that era, or were you in diapers?

Either way, that’s what happens and that’s how the fix was back then.

Thankfully, other manufacturers stepped in and made deadhead regulators that worked, unlike the Holley ****.

Before you pop off you’d better know what you’re mouthing off about or you look like a dumb ***.

I’ll say it again. If Holley is saying it, look for better tech somewhere else. Those dickheads STILL don’t know how to set power valve timing.

That should be enough to know if your IQ is at least as high as the speed limit.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Neither of you flaming each other are helping anyone. Just drop it.

 

[Dana67Dart]

True but it's so fun there should be a thread for it

It's called a PM

 

[Newbomb Turk]

blah blah, no proof just a waste of time flappin your gums. Judging by previous posts of yours I think you're either a useful idiot that spews Chinese corporate propaganda against American companies but means well or just plain full of ****, accusing with with no real evidence! Your word means nothing to me. Show proof.
You can argue or piss off, either way, I don't really care, I'm helping a member save his fresh build.

lol. Got it. I show mercy to low IQ idiots like you.

The only help you can give anyone is to go sit in the corner and shut up.

Bad advice is worse than no advice.

 

[Kendog 170]

Ok, here's my story. A friend couldn't get his 1976 440 Ram charger to start. He put in a new starter, Alt. you know throwing parts at it. He called me and asked if I wanted it. Of course I did. Got it home. Checked the oil and motor was full of gas. Drained out 10 quarts. I pulled the carb and the pins for the floats had rust and kept the floats down. I fixed the carb, changed oil and filter thats it. Started it up and that sucker smoked for a 1/2 hour. Looked like my house was on fire from a distance. Finally, no more smoke. No damage to the engine. I hope you get lucky like I did.
Good luck.

 

[Demonracer]

@Deltatech, you need to go back an reread all of the pertinent information you have been given. Let's face it, you asked for information and it was given. If you choose to ignore it, you and your wallet are going to be the ones suffer. Most of the members here have been doing this stuff for 40+ years and know what they are talking about. Personally I have been around the automobile hobby for over 60 years. I've built many cars from mild street cars, some wild street driven nitrous cars, up to my current bracket car which is a legit low 10 second car on a bad day. When a lot of us began, we didn't have the internet and smart phones. We learned by trial and error, and/or listening to people that were older, smarter and had made mistakes. Continuing to argue with members will eventually get you blocked by the members. As a wise man once said, "Open what you have two of and close what you have one of"!

 

[Deltatech]

@Deltatech, you need to go back an reread all of the pertinent information you have been given. Let's face it, you asked for information and it was given. If you choose to ignore it, you and your wallet are going to be the ones suffer. Most of the members here have been doing this stuff for 40+ years and know what they are talking about. Personally I have been around the automobile hobby for over 60 years. I've built many cars from mild street cars, some wild street driven nitrous cars, up to my current bracket car which is a legit low 10 second car on a bad day. When a lot of us began, we didn't have the internet and smart phones. We learned by trial and error, and/or listening to people that were older, smarter and had made mistakes. Continuing to argue with members will eventually get you blocked by the members. As a wise man once said, "Open what you have two of and close what you have one of"!

Isn't this 303's thread on smoking after gas in the oil? If you want to lecture me then send it in a PM so It can sit in my inbox until it's deleted, rightfully so.

 

[Deltatech]

Ok, here's my story. A friend couldn't get his 1976 440 Ram charger to start. He put in a new starter, Alt. you know throwing parts at it. He called me and asked if I wanted it. Of course I did. Got it home. Checked the oil and motor was full of gas. Drained out 10 quarts. I pulled the carb and the pins for the floats had rust and kept the floats down. I fixed the carb, changed oil and filter thats it. Started it up and that sucker smoked for a 1/2 hour. Looked like my house was on fire from a distance. Finally, no more smoke. No damage to the engine. I hope you get lucky like I did.
Good luck.

I've seen the opposite happen back around 2009 when I owned a shop in Hawaii.
We had one come in that was pushing fuel past the needle and seat. The customer ran the piss out of it to try to reseat it but he was too late it had already polished the bores and had to be rehoned.
luckily 303's fresh build should be saved!
I remember watching my Grandpa using transmission fluid to get rid of glazed bores on his drag car when I was a kid in the late 70's.

 

[Demonracer]

Typical "Keyboard Warrior"! I read on the "internet" and it gets taken for "gospel". When all of the members here are trying to help you save your engine, you want to argue and dispute their advice. I looked through you original posting of when started with the car. It is and was all over the map, slant 6, 360, then 440. You may have been a good Chevrolet mechanic, but you are in way over your head with where you are trying to go. Consider yourself on "ignore" by myself, others will probably follow suit.

 

[standup303]

Summit has a new fuel pump in route covered by warranty I’ll post up when it’s in. Cars running good now though!

 

[standup303]

Typical "Keyboard Warrior"! I read on the "internet" and it gets taken for "gospel". When all of the members here are trying to help you save your engine, you want to argue and dispute their advice. I looked through you original posting of when started with the car. It is and was all over the map, slant 6, 360, then 440. You may have been a good Chevrolet mechanic, but you are in way over your head with where you are trying to go. Consider yourself on "ignore" by myself, others will probably follow suit.

Me? Huh? Y'all need to stop arguing on the internet lol.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Can a deadhead regulator cause a fuel pump to crap out? I have 5/16 line to pump, filter, then deadhead regulator, then carb.

Yup.

 

[Deltatech]

It's called a PM

I found the ignore button as well.

Typical "Keyboard Warrior"! I read on the "internet" and it gets taken for "gospel". When all of the members here are trying to help you save your engine, you want to argue and dispute their advice. I looked through you original posting of when started with the car. It is and was all over the map, slant 6, 360, then 440. You may have been a good Chevrolet mechanic, but you are in way over your head with where you are trying to go. Consider yourself on "ignore" by myself, others will probably follow suit.

Typical "I've been doing this the hard way for 50 years, know it all, noone can teach me anything attitude"
I've build Mopars for other people when I owned my own shop in Hawaii, this is my first MOPAR build for ME.
When people are being Dicks like you're being it gives decent Mopar guys a bad wrap. In my opinion.
I'd like to point out that you didn't prove anything in the writeup wrong.
THE END.

 

[Killer6]

I found the ignore button as well.


Typical "I've been doing this the hard way for 50 years, know it all, noone can teach me anything attitude"
I've build Mopars for other people when I owned my own shop in Hawaii, this is my first MOPAR build for ME.
When people are being Dicks like you're being it gives decent Mopar guys a bad wrap. In my opinion.
I'd like to point out that you didn't prove anything in the writeup wrong.
THE END.

Right On!!! And I hate a bad wrap,.....I prefer a chicken & bean fiesta wrap, w/avocado ranch & jalapenos......THAT's a wrap!!

 

[Kendog 170]

We had one come in that was pushing fuel past the needle and seat. The customer ran the piss out of it to try to reseat it but he was too late

He only ran it briefly.

Cars running good now though!

That good news. Now just find the issue so you don't rinse and repeat.

 

[Deltatech]

He only ran it briefly.

That would do it too. He ran it for a half an hour reving it with no load on it. I'm talking about the customer not the op.

 

[Kendog 170]

Hey all, fairly new 440 was running fine and had the ECU/pickup take a crap. While trouble shooting this I cranked the engine a lot. When I finally got the car started, I noticed a 1/2 quart puddle under the car and shut it off after about 15 seconds.

The puddle was a gas/oil mix. Changed my oil and had 15 quarts of oil/gas mix….yay. Assuming gas was filling the combustion chamber and then leaking into the crank case?

New oil and filter, cranked her, let her get up to temp in the garage. White smoke the whole time, running/idling like crap. What do you all recommend I start looking at? Oil was not foamy/white. Fouled plugs from cranking not burning the fuel?

Where did he state that?