Smoking after gas in oil

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6 is too high and the regulator may be a little off. My bet is it's the carb overflowing from too much pressure.
I've had a few regulators set to 4-5 that actually had 9 PSI when I checked them with a gauge.
It's been years but if I remember right the spring was too stiff. Factory mistake.
Have you a fuel pressure gauge? If so check it while it's running.
 
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Deltatech said:
6 is too high and the regulator may be a little off. My bet is it's the carb overflowing from too much pressure.
I've had a few regulators set to 4-5 that actually had 9 PSI when I checked them with a gauge.
It's been years but if I remember right the spring was too stiff. Factory mistake.
Have you a fuel pressure gauge? If so check it while it's running.
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I’m thinking the same considering I had fuel leaking out of the header/exhaust joint. I admittedly just put the regulator on same time this ignition took a crap. It was running right at 6psi on the gauge today and I lowered the front float.if that doesn’t solve it then I’ll throw a new pump on.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IMHO..


Change the fuel pump regardless. operating by hand is in no way the same as being operated by the engine and at engine operating temps. there is only 2 ways fuel gets into the oil. the pump or the carb. and you can look at the carb and see fuel leaking into the manifold while its running. not to mention if that much fuel was coming from the carb there is no way it would run on a get in a up to temp drive 15 minutes?
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As cheap as a fuel pump is compared to an engine, I understand not why it's not been replaced yet. There's just no way in hades that much fuel got into the oil from just the carburetor flooding.
 
RustyRatRod said:
As cheap as a fuel pump is compared to an engine, I understand not why it's not been replaced yet. There's just no way in hades that much fuel got into the oil from just the carburetor flooding.
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The pump has 20 miles on it since brand new. But agree. I’ll get another one ordered.
 
RustyRatRod said:
As cheap as a fuel pump is compared to an engine, I understand not why it's not been replaced yet. There's just no way in hades that much fuel got into the oil from just the carburetor flooding.
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If my theory is correct, initially there was no regulator and probably a high volume fuel pump pumping full tilt.
I figure the Op waited to order a new pump after the regulator was setup correctly. $150-$230 for another fuel pump isn't something everyone can spend before a problem is properly diagnosed.
 
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Deltatech said:
If my theory is correct, initially there was no regulator and probably a high volume fuel pump pumping full tilt.
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It's possible, although not probable. Either way, I'd put a pump on it.
 
Deltatech said:
About 40 years ago I did my first 383 build with roller rockers, pre internet, learned from old guys with cigs hanging out of their mouths that flapped when they talked and car magazines.
I over tightened the adjustable rockers and bent about 7 pushrods...Fresh build---on break in...Old guys laughed at me....
Talk about puckered and shamed... I learned from it.
New pushrods later and the car ran 9.4 in the quarter....The Old guys quit laughing......and now I'm the old guy with the cig hanging flapping when I talk....I understand in stead.
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everytime I think I’m starting to know a lil bit, I get humbled! But still very far from day 1 3 years ago on my 74 Dart.
 
Deltatech said:
We are simply different mindsets, I didn't imply that it may be a dumb thing to do. I stated it would probably be a waste of money and it would have.
Looks like I ruffled some feathers, lol.
I figured it would be warrantied, it's a new build...................Please ,think a little more..
I'm here to help not to argue.
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Not at all. Just lettin you know how I would do it. Like I say often. My car runs great. I don't really care if anyone takes any of my advice or not. It's worked for me since the late 70s.
 
Deltatech said:
It weighed 2750 with me in it.
It was an all forged 13:1 chevy stroker that was making around 850hp with a 300 shot of NOS. But I never got that combo to hook so 9.4 was the best I got out of it.
it split the forged crank on pass #17
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ah.

i thought you were talking about a mopar and something all motor...
 
Next time you do a compression test do it dry, do not use oil on the first test. Always do the test twice. First dry, record readings. Second test put 2 squirts of oil in the cylinder then test it. If the readings go up, you have issues with the rings. If the numbers stay the same, your cylinders are good. If you test wet on the first test you are getting false information which is what you really don’t want.
 
Coming in late, but a bunch of gas in the oil is bad, yes, but very common on engines that just make short trips and never see high oil temps. Also one ones that run too cold. Definitely sounds like over fueling. Everyone's advice here is spot on, carb tuning and pump. Marine engines make oil like crazy when water is cold and people just troll around. Quarts of fuel in oil. Dangerous and will cause damage. But the short run this had likely hasn't hurt anything. Change oil, pump and sort out the carb. Send it
 
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