So the snail won the drag race...

[barnett468]

That's only correct if you mean full-throttle acceleration. It's wrong if we're talking about part-throttle acceleration, the kind most of us do most of the time.

wrong

There are a bunch of good reasons to disagree with this apparently random, blanket 6-degree figure.

no there isn't because it is correct.

This part's right.

well you got one out of 3 correct so congratulations.
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[slantsixdan]

it is correct.

Right, ace. Six degrees is the right amount of vacuum advance for any engine in any car, from a '60 Valiant with a 170/3-speed and 3.55s to a '73 Imperial with a 440/automatic and 2.71s to a '79 Aspen with a 225/4-speed overdrive and 3.23s. You betchya. So Chrysler (and, um, every other automaker) wasted alllllll that money making allllll those different vacuum advances giving alllll those different amounts of advance. Instead they shoulda listened to Six Degrees Guy on the internet, 'cause he knows that six degrees is the right amount of vacuum advance, period. You betchya. Are you even listening to yourself?

By the way, dude: of all the Slant-6 vacuum advance units made over the years, none of them is a six-degree unit. All of them give at least ten degrees, and some of them give a whole lot more than that. If you wanna know why, go study up on why vacuum advance exists and what it does. It won't take you long to learn; I recommend Auto Mechanics Fundamentals by Stockel & Stockel.

While you're doing that (or continuing to sit there insisting you're right and the automakers and the entire rest of the world are all wrong), we'll be over here helping the OP get his Dart running well.

 

[barnett468]

Right, ace. Six degrees is the right amount of vacuum advance for any engine in any car, from a '60 Valiant with a 170/3-speed and 3.55s to a '73 Imperial with a 440/automatic and 2.71s to a '79 Aspen with a 225/4-speed overdrive and 3.23s. You betchya. So Chrysler (and, um, every other automaker) wasted alllllll that money making allllll those different vacuum advances giving alllll those different amounts of advance. Instead they shoulda listened to Six Degrees Guy on the internet, 'cause he knows that six degrees is the right amount of vacuum advance, period. You betchya. Are you even listening to yourself?

By the way, dude: of all the Slant-6 vacuum advance units made over the years, none of them is a six-degree unit. All of them give at least ten degrees, and some of them give a whole lot more than that. If you wanna know why, go study up on why vacuum advance exists and what it does. It won't take you long to learn; I recommend Auto Mechanics Fundamentals by Stockel & Stockel.

While you're doing that (or continuing to sit there insisting you're right and the automakers and the entire rest of the world are all wrong), we'll be over here helping the OP get his Dart running well.

The more you post, the more you prove how little you know, and I am not going to waste my time trying to explain something to you that you are obviously simply incapable of understanding.

Your inaccurate opinions will also do nothing to help the op get his car running better, and in fact, they will only cause a delay in that process, and your continued feeble attempts to try and discredit other peoples posts that don't agree with yours no matter how wrong you are, are amusing but don't do anything to benefit op's either.

 

[JoeSBP]

OP, I strongly suggest getting a K&N air filter and one of these. It will def get you up to, and maybe over, 25mpg. You will get much of the lost punch back

I'm sure Dan will argue against this point too, because the guy is kind of mean, clearly isn't very helpful, and doesn't know much about cars, especially the SL6...

 

[barnett468]

Eventually you're going to want to get everything set up so your base timing is 5° to 7° BTDC.

This is bad info because it is factually inaccurate to use it as a universal setting for all slant 6 engines . The FACT is that there is no one universal setting for MECHANICAL timing that is ideal for all slant 6 engines or other engines for that matter unless one is referring to a newer car that is completely stock . You ALWAYS want to run as much timing as an engine can tolerate . The secret is knowing how to determine what amount of timing this is.

 

[JoeSBP]

I don't think we are talking about all SL6 engines, just this year right? And you are saying there is no way to properly know the base timing?

 

[barnett468]

I don't think we are talking about all SL6 engines, just this year right? And you are saying there is no way to properly know the base timing?

The factory timing setting is not always the best one . One reason for this is because many cars had to meet emissions requirements, and in some cases, the timing settings were a compromise between maximum performance and meeting these requirements, and determining the optimal setting is called "performance tuning.

Also, cam chain wear can change the amount of engine timing that is optimal for a particular engine and so can compression which will be higher than stock if an engine is bored out but everything else remains the same.

Using factory timing settings is usually safe, however, that does not mean that it is the optimal setting for optimal performance.
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[slantsixdan]

The more you post, the more you prove how little you know

Awright, Your Excellency, y'don't wanna believe me? Fine, go read these two multipage articles in MoparMax on exactly the subject at hand:
:::MoparMax::: Timing is Everything - 11/24/15
:::MoparMax::: Timing is Everything Part 2 - 01/07/15

(Or if you'd rather keep rattling your keyboard, you can maybe tell us all why bypassing the OSAC valve—which delays vacuum to the distributor—improves part-throttle acceleration so dramatically. Given how vacuum advance, on your planet, has nothing to do with acceleration and all.)

 

[barnett468]

Awright, Your Excellency, y'don't wanna believe me? Fine, go read these two multipage articles in MoparMax on exactly the subject at hand:
:::MoparMax::: Timing is Everything - 11/24/15
:::MoparMax::: Timing is Everything Part 2 - 01/07/15

(Or if you'd rather keep rattling your keyboard, you can maybe tell us all why bypassing the OSAC valve—which delays vacuum to the distributor—improves part-throttle acceleration so dramatically. Given how vacuum advance, on your planet, has nothing to do with acceleration and all.)

Sorry but there is absolutely no information you can post about timing or vacuum advance that I don't know about, especially since unlike you, I have 40 years of experience in restoring cars and building performance engines and tuning them on a daily basis for a LIVING, not as a part time novce hobbyist like you are. Again, the more you post about this topic, the more you embarrass yourself, but please don't stop because I enjoy laughing.

..............

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[barnett468]

(Or if you'd rather keep rattling your keyboard, you can maybe tell us all why bypassing the OSAC valve—which delays vacuum to the distributor—improves part-throttle acceleration so dramatically.

Sure can, oh great bloviating one, first of all, bypassing this valve will in no way DRAMATICALLY increase performance as you so demonstrably claim . When bypassing the valve increases initial acceleration or reduces hesitation etc, it simply means that the advance supplied by the mechanical advance is insufficient and the vacuum can engages at a very low vacuum . The vacuum advance should never be active upon acceleration if one is trying to get the maximum performance from an engine . It should also NOT be active at idle contrary to one grossly inaccurate "paper" that has been floating around the internet for a while now.

Also, the harder the accelerator pedal is depressed, the LESS vacuum the engine has to pull on the vacuum can . In general, if one floors the accelerator pedal from a stop, this is when the engine will have the LOWEST amount of vacuum which means that other than idle if the the vacuum can is connected to ported vacuum, it will be the point at which the vacuum can will be the LEAST likely to add any advance, and as the rpm increases, so does the amount of engine vacuum and subsequently the likelihood that the vacuum can will be activated, and nothing you say is going to change this FACT or the physics that cause this.

Also, not all vacuum cans are designed to operate over the same vacuum range, and some aftermarket vacuum cans are designed to be adjustable so they can be fine TUNED for a particular app.

If one wants to see what vacuum range their vacuum can operates over, all they need to do is connect a vacuum pump with a gauge and connect it to the vacuum can and watch the arm and points plate move as they apply vacuum . If they do this with the engine running, they can actually note how many degrees the can advances the timing at different vacuum levels . With this information, they can even plot a timing graph if they want . They can then install a vacuum gauge in their car and "T" it into the distributor vacuum line then drive their car and see when the vacuum can is active . This will also help to eliminate any "placebo" affect the driver may have from thinking their car has 50 more hp simply because they read on the internet that some clueless person said it would if they bypassed the vacuum switch.
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[barnett468]

By the way....this gif you seem to like because you posted it, looks kinda gay!