Some people just shouldn't own a mopar

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I'm really starting to wonder about how long some of you guys leave a car idling before you drive off in it...
 
Another thought came to me about the "pumping of the gas pedal" If the choke is wired open you'd pump alot to "richen up" the intake plenum. It is basically what you are doing when closing the choke and cutting off air its just you would be doing it backwards by squirting excess gas if the choke is wired open. I stated before I have ran chokes wired open and the pumping is part of the cold start also you might have to sit there and give it gas for a few seconds untill it warms up although honestly My 318 and 340 always idles immediately after startup . 2 different steups but same intake I ran 600 Holley on the LA 318 and a 750 edelbrock on the 340 Edelbrock perfor,mer intake on voth.
 
crackedback said:
His car, his deal. Drive it like you stole it if you want too.

I remember when these things were junk that nobody wanted.

I bought a 68 SS 396/375 4 spd Camaro for $650 that was pristine. Hemi cars for under 3K.
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Yeah, I bought my 1970 340 3 speed Duster in 1974. It was $800
 
dadsbee said:
I'm really starting to wonder about how long some of you guys leave a car idling before you drive off in it
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There is one thing to get in, start engine, and drive. There is another thing to get in start engine and rev it to 5000 RPM for a minute.

Would you rebuild an engine and without any break in, run it on a dyno at max HP?
 
dadsbee said:
I'm really starting to wonder about how long some of you guys leave a car idling before you drive off in it...
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My wife is turn the key and right in gear. If she could she would start it in gear. My truck "Diesel" needs to warm up a little or the trans "6 speed" shifts stiff. Performance cars wait for heat. At the track let them run in gear on a jack.
 
Dana67Dart said:
There is one thing to get in, start engine, and drive. There is another thing to get in start engine and rev it to 5000 RPM for a minute.

Would you rebuild an engine and without any break in, run it on a dyno at max HP?
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You didn't want to be around my place when I built roller motors in the 80's. Fire it up, set timing and carb(s). Make sure the cooling system was working, good oil pressure, no leaks.

Spray down street, 6500-7500 rpm burn out. All broken in... Some of the SB 283-302 Chevies were turning 9500... lol

Outside of running them to get temp in them on a dyno, while doing that you put some load on them and release it. Puts pressure on rings, etc. After that, rip away on the dyno. Short runs to mid range RPM verifying carb jetting, looks good, rip it to upper ranges.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
After looking at the Demon closer I would retract my statement in my original post. That does not look to be a 71 and not an original 340 car.

What are the things that make this car looked to be a clone besides the 68 dash cluster. There are several, But 2 of these giveaways that I see that tell the story.

72 car . probably AC car. No rear markers, 72 pass inner fender drilled for AC, firewall smoothed to remove AC, 72 Harness under the hood, 72 Duster interior. 68 Dash bezel. Probably the most revealing is the drip rails. The drip rail chrome eliminator pieces are still in place. So it never had drip rail chrome. Meaning it was never a premium 340 car. I say it started life as a AC slant 6, 3 spd on the floor 72 Duster , That is why the Duster door panels are still in there with the 72 seats. It even has a 72 on up fuel neck for the newer gas cap to fit level. 71's the handles were all tilted.

So he could do all the doughnuts he want. Its worthless except for parts. Check his other burnout videos.
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You just stated the car is "worthless except for parts" and started a thread saying some people shouldn't own mopars. The guy is having fun with HIS car, I doubt he gives two ***** what you think. I know I sure dont.
 
crackedback said:
You didn't want to be around my place when I built roller motors in the 80's. Fire it up, set timing and carb(s). Make sure the cooling system was working, good oil pressure, no leaks.

Spray down street, 6500-7500 rpm burn out. All broken in... Some of the SB 283-302 Chevies were turning 9500... lol

Outside of running them to get temp in them on a dyno, while doing that you put some load on them and release it. Puts pressure on rings, etc. After that, rip away on the dyno. Short runs to mid range RPM verifying carb jetting, looks good, rip it to upper ranges.
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I remember those days , Build-em Race-em blow-em and rebuild-em. We have racers come here that melt them down on the dyno . Those days are over for me . Just can't afford the parts prices today on my retirement. As you get older you start appreciating these old Mopar engines and how hard they are to find.
 
There was a guy on here more than one time that scraped and cut up rust free mopars and said if the parts don't sell he was going to throw them in the dump then would mock anyone who said anything about it , can't remember who it was tho
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I for the life of me can't see why that car rolled over.
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Lol, well, when the wheel goes flying and rolling away, then its right next to the dude in the next scene, they're probably pushing it a bit!

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toolmanmike said:
10 min or so. I usually get mine up to temp. I'm retired. I have time. :lol:
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Two schools of thought here. Get a load on the engine soon so it spends less time in the “cold” zone. With a slush box, I usually put the trans in gear for a while before I start moving. Man, those really cold days are scary on start up. Lots of whining. P/S doesnt work for a while. Lifter clacking. pistons knocking, Good times.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Seeing it has a 70 dash and 72 interior. the vin and engine numbers would determine the final price. solid running rust free 4spd car in need of resto with no rust. $15 - $20K . Probably worth more to someone that doesn't have one.
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72 air cleaner too.
 
dadsbee said:
I'm really starting to wonder about how long some of you guys leave a car idling before you drive off in it...
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I fire it up and feather the pedal....then drive the dude! NO extensive idling for me. I don't know everything but I know that idling with stiff valvesprings isn't a good idea.
 
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