Some snags with my conversion

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Muswagon

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The clutch pedal sits much deeper than the brake. It allows for some adjustment with a tab, but that only pushes it further down. To engage the brake light (or disengage i guess) the brake pedal sits 2" higher. Very confusing

Second, using the hydramax 1-23 bearing with the spacer. I have read elsewhere that the spacer is too thick, and not enough shims if you go pure shims. I am + 100 thou with just the spacer. I was thinking of milling off 250 thou on the spacer plus maybe the thickness of one shim to give me some wiggle room? anyone else done this?

I think someone said the Ford spacer is narrower still with the 1" diameter. Seems silly that i would have to buy this after already buying the bearing kit.

Lastly. The Hydramax comes pre bled. Does that change the air gap? One guide I was looking at talked about once its bled the gap of 150 thou you set pretty much disappears, not sure if that is accurate. Of course then I am overthinking wondering if zero air gap would be best. The instructions are ridiculous from American Powertrain in my opinion.
 
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How about starting with the combination you are running.
Pictures help a lot and what is your actual question?
 
Is The brake pedal to high or the clutch pedal to low?

Are you working on a Ford the only car Mentioned?

What clutch pedal assembly Hydraulic or Mechanical?

What brake System?


"I have a clunking, squeaking, rattle noise coming from what I am in". What could be the cause of that rubbing sound?
 
I had three questions rammed in there, first one I will take a pic of later of where i need to move my brake pedal to. The clutch pedal is much lower than the brake, can I simply adjust the rod and then manipulate the brake switch mount to match?

My combo is 71 Duster, 440, A833, Mcleod clutch and Mallwood hydraulic under dash pedal system

The hydramax question. The collar spacer they give you is too thick, and they don't give you enough shims to just use shims to get your .150 gap. How have people solved this is what I am asking? Can a hardened washer of the same ID be used as a shim? No hot rod shops up here carry shims.

I had mentioned ford because someone on here referenced replacing the Chrysler collar spacer with the Ford one because its thinner

Also on the hydramax, its the only bearing that comes pre bled, does that change the gap requirement?
 
The clearance they require is to make sure there is no pressure on the Piston assembly when in the relaxed position.
 
I understand that. Most hydraulic bearing are not pre bled, so you are taking your gap dry, which will change when bled. The Hydramax is pre bled, was just asking if that changes the air gap requirement as it will not change except for wear.

Thoughts on using a hardened washer as a bearing shim?
 
Talked to Mallwood and that is best tech support I have ever had in my life, not just car parts but any tech advice!

Sorry for the rambly questions but i am good for now lol
 
Solve the pedal-height first, and you will likely solve the freeplay issue.
At rest;
The clutch pedal pad should be about an inch higher than the Brake-pedal pad height when the brake pedal is properly engineered.

The brake pedal should park, way at the top, tight to the dash; I'll guess 7>8 or more inches off the floor. When you step on the brake-pedal, the first inch is throw away and does nothing but engage the booster if applicable, take up linkage play, and close the compensating port. Within the next inch, if everything is working right, and no booster is used, the pedal should get real hard. If your car has a booster, keep your foot on the brake and start the engine. The pedal should drop about an inch. But you should still have say, 4 to 5 inches to the floor. I'm guessing.
and that should nearly match where the clutch pedal would land with a mechanical linkage, after the freeplay is taken up.

However, I have no idea as to the various ratios of the hydro that you are using, so cannot speak to that system.
 
I run a different throw out bearing than you, but I had the same issue. I ended up getting some spacers from McMaster that got me the gap I needed. I also had to lengthen the anti rotation bolt that was on it.

20230224_142048.jpg
 
What bearing is that? If that is the eastside kit, its the same spacer that was included in the American Powertrain kit and even Mallwood sells it, RS3009 and either says Chrysler or Mopar on it. I have no idea what application it was made for, maybe a Borg and Beck style sits deeper in the bell?
 
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Yeah, its the Eastside kit. I used the washers it came with, plus a thick one from McMaster since nothing it came with could be configured properly.

The stud in the trans actually broke when I torqued it to 30 ftlbs, snapped right in half. So I used a grade 8 bolt that was longer to still engage with the additional length I needed.

Edit: this is the combo of shims I ordered to make it work.

1 of these:
McMaster-Carr

2 of these:
McMaster-Carr

And a couple of the ones the kit came with.


20230221_165147.jpg


20230221_165139.jpg
 
We actually have the identical kit, the American powertrain one has the same bearing and collar, just anodized blue.

My cousin has a small machine shop so he is taking off .315 ish thou from the collar, should get me exactly at -.150 with one shim and the collar.

Failing that I will try your solution.

I won't even dare using the stud as it sounds like it will be the same one you have.
 
As far as your pedal height question, I bought an adjustable brake pedal push rod and put them at the height I wanted as the clutch pedal height was also adjustable with the linkage I used.
 
My solution, milled it down without compromising the set screw area. This with one shim gets me to .145 gap. Now the fun part, putting it all

IMG_2946.jpeg


IMG_2945.jpeg
 
Having trouble stabbing the trans in. Took off the bell, re did the clutch alignment. This time I cut down the tool to match my now shortened input shaft, seems to have a butter smooth engagement. Tried the trans on its own without the bell and it went in nice at first and then seemed tighter than any other trans I have done, almost like overcoming air pressure kinda feel if that makes any sense. Running the roller bearing conversion for cast crank with shortened input shaft.

Any tips here before attempt number 2?
 
Grab some longer trans to bellhousing bolts and cut the heads off. Then screw them in and use as alignment dowels.
 
I can't remember, maybe someone else will chime in. Or measure the ones you have. 7/16 sounds right, but I'm not 100% positive.
 
Verified measurment of pilot to crank. Trans goes in without bell on, but it does seem tight at the end. Alignment tool goes in with zero effort. Made the guide 'pins' out of bolts. Got to same place and it feels like hitting a wall after the splines make contact with clutch. Turned flyewheel with the flywheel tool (love this thing!), still no.

I am thinking that the tightness of trans going in when bell is off is the clue, I am not in perfect alignment despite the tool saying it is. That McLeod tool is really junky for the cost of their clutches? I am going to see if a local guy has a junk input shaft to test with to see if its just out of alignment.

Really, what else could it be??

I am out of town for a week so maybe I will have an idea while I am away lol
 
Check the runout between crank centerline and the hole in bellhousing. Maybe you need some offset bushings to move it slightly.
 
I will check that. I had thought of an idea that it seems others have done, loosening pressure plate bolts after the input has made contact with the clutch splines. Found another thread on here that suggested that. I will check runout first
 
Runout was good, took pressure plate and clutch off to see if trans would mate nicely with bell on, all good…

Then I started over and realized that the McLeod pilot tool is actually worse than I thought. The pilot area was so loose there is zero chance of being accurate.

I ran a bit of tape over it, made sure it was really snug, then set it up again. I did the up all the way, down all the way, and tightened in the middle.

The trans popped in nicely using three guide pins (cut off bolts).

Sorry for the novel but man I cannot get over how crappy that tool is that McLeod includes..

IMG_2955.jpeg
 
Mine was sloppy too, I think I had it lifted most of the way up when I torqued everything down. Glad to hear it was nothing major. Need to find an old 833 input shaft to keep around for next time!
 
Tried that too, did not see the re purposed ones that Brewers sells until after my millionth order shipped. Tried locally, but only guys willing to borrow me on which is no bueno as I would have to trim the pilot shaft to match my trans depth. will order the brewers one for next time!
 
Ok so ready to testing but something does not look right. I measured my air gap about 10 times. With it installed, there is a space between the face of the bearing and the fingers of about .145 using a piece of metal as a feeler gauge. While that seems correct it looks cavernous to the eye. Is this correct? Did I do something horribly wrong? I’m on the home stretch of buttoning stuff up so I’d rather pull trans now to re shim before more stuff gets bolted on

It is fully compressed, I have not put fluid to it yet, so maybe it pre loads further out?

IMG_2969.jpeg
 
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