someone pick a cam for me

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Snake

Snake

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That cam 232-4 280h-280-480 is coming out and one day going in my 360.So I need advice on what will work in my 318 giving me a noticeable idle useing stock push rod,rockers,I already have the comp 901 springs and retainers in there.I am useing stock compression,4 barrell,headers duel plane intake 1800-5500 stock convertor but will upgrade to a 2500 stall next year and 355 gear next yea ,stock heads.I do not at this time want to play with different push rods, or rockers.That will be up to the engine builder when he rebuilds my 360 in a year or to.So I am leaving this up to FABO to help,I once bought a 74 Duster 318 when I was 18 that had what the owner said had a purple shaft in had a little chop to it.So lets see what we can do here PLEASE.Thanks.
 
I already did in your other post but a Comp 260H is as big as you want to go with a stock valvetrain and should work well with your combo. I'd stay away from the extreme energy stuff with stock rockers,
 
I'd get a split duration cam with a stock head and a small extreme would be good. The XE262 or the high energy 268H single pattern cam.

I curently run a cam with the intakes duration of 216 with 3.21 gears. You could step up to a 220 intake duration. Howver, your compresion is low and that isn't to good for performance and a new cam.

A choppy idle will require a low centerline cam. On a 318, a typical 110 will do it.
Choose a duration that works with the intended RPM, stall and gear set.
Lift should not exceed the heads abilty to flow air. Mid to low .400 lifts It should not really exceed hi 400 lifts.
 
That 268H will have some romp in a stock 318. Mine did years ago. The XE series 262 will have a little. The 260 will sound stock.
 
As I said in the last thread, unless your parts are wiped, and need replacing, buy adj rockers and s set of pushrods instead, then you have parts you can use, at a later date, on another engine, this engine, go bigger on the cam................

If you HAVE to change the cam.

Best bark for the bite.......... Let me see....... (Not a fan of comp so I'll let the others recommend them)

Cams that I have actually ran before.......

The 270HL ISKY
Has that muscle sound, works OK with a stock 318.
270 MEGA, same deal, more top end, and a little more chopiity.

and the 60401 voodoo.

more low end than stock, and has a kinda lumpbump to it.

As far as NEEDING the adj valvetrain with your cam, I have gone bigger without.......... Did you run it some and see if the tickitty went away?
 
Well after puting in the right push rods the tick is still there as said not as bad.When I did pull all the rods i look into the vally and all lifters were in the same spot none have colasped.I still think a different cam is in order.
 
Ok went to comp site and look at the 262h In there kit ,it says at the rockers there is a foot note # 23 includes special shafts and spacers can use the 822 lifters, right under that part # there is anouther lifter to pick in red #867 with a foot note #37 must have adjustable valve train, now I am lost again because my 280h 232-4 has the same thing.what gives
 
Comp is covering their ***.............

Ticks still there. Dangit.

Pull the intake, see how the lobes look, I guess. I still don't think I would change the cam if it isn't wiped, I just hate to see you buy something you don't really need, and skip the adj valvtrain.

Then, the possibilities are endless, and when you get sick of hyd lifters, you can go solid like me!
 
Thanks a bunch for the help Dodgetkboy78 If i went to adjustable valve train what is needed new lifters,push rods adjustable rockers what would i ask for.
 
IF your lifters are OK...........

You need a set of pushrods, and rocker arms.

You can do like I do, go to NAPA or something, and get a set of the rockers for a 273, and pushrods. (The adj pushrods have a cup in the top side for the adj screw)



Then, all your ticking clattering woes go away.
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
IF your lifters are OK...........

You need a set of pushrods, and rocker arms.

You can do like I do, go to NAPA or something, and get a set of the rockers for a 273, and pushrods. (The adj pushrods have a cup in the top side for the adj screw)



Then, all your ticking clattering woes go away.
Click to expand...

You can still get that stuff??
 
I think just about all comp cams have a footnote to use an adjustable valvetrain. At least all of them I've looked at do.
 
Sure thing, I'll be right back, got two in my toolbox.........




Speed pro

R-876R

I imagine there is a L too, thats the only box I have. The pushrods are Elgin, don't have that number anymore.

Hope this helps.
 
This helps BIG TIME if it is the fix tell me do I need different rocker shafts?.Cool will sleep better tonight.
 
So out of curiosity... what IS the actual preload on the lifters? In case you are not sure how to measure... you take a measurement of the distance between the retaining clip and the plunger on the hydraulic lifter. I don't think "Comp is covering thier ***" I think we're closer, but the preload is still not right. Again, all parts involved have ben machined so the distances are no longer stock... On the adjustable valve train with the other lifters: anti-pump-up type lifters run MUCH less preload and a much smaller sweet spot, so the cam companies want to be able to set it properly to .010 preload. That's why they suggest adjustable valve train. Plus, the question of lifter to bore clearance was also not answered.
 
Well went down to the speed shop were I got the cam and lifters they grab there comp book we went to the page of cam kits,now the lifters I have are the 822-16 with no foot note.Under that 822 there are lifters in red that are 867-16 with the foot note # 37 thats says use thease for adjustable valve train.The engine builder say the cam and lifters I have you do not have to adjust the valves.Still thinks bad lifters.Getting pissed here.
 
Ok. So at which point are you going to pull the intake and measure the preload? The 822-16s are the stock type lifter and SHOULD.. emphasis on should.. not need a special length pushrod. However, the fact that you changed them and it got quieter to me says you're on the right track. But didnt go far enough. If the parts are machined away from the sloppy stock sizes, like decking the block, or milling a set of heads for compression, or the valves are cut as part of a valve job... those stock pushrods may not be right. The only way to really know is to pop the intake and check the preload on every lifter. This SHOULD have been done BY THE ASSEMBLER when he put it together. You engine guy's pissed because he doesnt want to do it either. but it's sure easier and cheaper than another cam swap and possible same issue.
 
The XE268 cam works well in my 318 with stock rockers, shafts, and pushrods. The rest of the drivetrain combo is very similar to that of the OP.

I wouldnt go any more aggressive on a near stock internal teen, though.

It does have a tick, but the XE tick is mainly due to the fast ramp rate of those cams.
 

The push rods that I change are shorter than the 360.One would think that the longer 360 push rod would of gave more preload than a shorter on.The plan is to pull the intake and measure the preload.I will have to get someone who knows what there doing there.
 
Heres my pick

Product Line Crane PowerMax Cam and Lifter Kits
Summit Racing Part Number CRN-693802

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 222
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift 222 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 278
Advertised Exhaust Duration 290
Advertised Duration 278 int./290 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.467 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.494 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.467 int./0.494 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 114
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Grind Number H-278-2
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Lifters Included Yes
Lifter Style Hydraulic flat tappet
 
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