The hurst shifter unit will work on all, as they are all one and the same, with very minimal differences that have to do with things that don't matter, like grease zircs being installed later on, etc. They all work and function the same.
linkages have to be for the A/F body short tailshaft/ housing, as there are two different tailshafts with three different shifter mount locations, between the two tailshaft housing main types.
The B/C/E/Truck type uses a longer main shaft and housing with two different shifter location options and your A/F body that uses the middle of the road location on the shaft housing. The A body links can be had on Brewers, but the hot ticket is to make them from threaded thick wall tubing and 3/8 heim joints, because it eliminates all of the end play that the stock rods and bushings allow, meaning less multiplied slop at the handle of your shift lever.
You've got the right one for the car. The deal with the aluminum case transmissions is that they are lighter duty than the steel case.
Gears inherently want to spread apart from each other when tension is applied between them. This causes the main shaft/ input shaft and gear assembly to physically force the cluster gear and countershaft that it spins on, away from the main shaft. There is a sleeve in the front of the case that supports the countershaft and attention should be paid to the case for cracking and other signs of stress.
You don't have to think about horsepower, so much as shear torque and shock. Things like the type of tire, tire diameter and width, overall vehicle weight and driving habit/ technique have more affect on the case. If the tires bite and the car goes forward in a hurry, you can hurt the aluminum case.
The aluminum is also susceptible to heat expansion/ contraction in use, so inherently, the aluminum transmissions tended to lose the gasket seal quicker than the steel case ones. This is not a big deal, if the trans wasn't starved of oil, but things to look for are a worn or scored output yoke bearing/ bushing. Good gaskets solve the problem if your hard parts are ok and output bearings are easy enough to replace.
The shift handle is entirely up to your preference, but be sure the lever will fit your seat and console/ lack thereof application.
you may consider getting an iron side cover, shift levers and trans case that has a 4.160" bolt circle (center to center bolt cross measurement on the 4 bolts) at the bearing retainer. The aluminum tailshaft and all of the parts, with the exception of the shift forks, levers, side cover and its shouldered bolts will transfer, when you're ready to monkey with a 408.
If you're serious enough about that 360 to use the 408 stroke, that aluminum case at the countershaft gear sleeve may be in trouble, depending on how you drive and the tires you have.
I think the aluminum case would be good up to about 350ft lbs with street tires, driving the piss out of it. I would not take it any further.
Another run in that you may experience is the 3.09 first gear. These transmissions were made for the road and have a traffic first gear in them. Great for street use, but not at all like the 2.6's that the HD 18 splines got that cracked backs. You'll be in and out of that gear quick.
Passon does make a Hemi O/D set with a really nice spread, but get ready to shell out for them. You are locked into 3.09 front gear, because of the combined cluster gear on the countershaft.
Depending on what you are planning to do with the car on a regular basis, the O/D may be a good or a bad thing for your needs.
