sound deadener

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
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Watching Graveyard Cars. Mark is taking about the thick product used to deaden the sound in the car. I know when I was cleaning the inside of my barracuda, there was a mess of the product that looked like roofing shingles that were all broken up. What do I use to replace this when I begin the painting.
 
If you want to really learn how to deaden sound in cars, research how they do it in small aircraft. It's enlightening.
 
I would be interested in learning more. Is this something you guys are doing with your restoration. It was stated it would help with the hollow sound. When I was stripping mine down there were a lot of the thick shingle type material had come loose from the body and was in the door and panel bottom. I just want to do my restoration the best I can.
 
Last night's Graveyard Carz show did enlighten me on that.

I do remember the trunk stuff on my original 73 Duster and didn't like it because it seemed messy to me. I had no idea that it really had a function. My restorer just last month sent my car back to the body shop to have 'thick stuff' sprayed on the inside of the new quarter panels, as the shop did not do the job 'right.' Well, it's really not as thick as the the original, but it is definitely another layer. I had no idea why he did that until the show. To say that I am more impressed with my restorer is an understatement.

Dennis
 
So why was thick stuff put into cars? I've got a 76 Duster that I blasted all that way. I've used Damplifier Pro and did the entire interior of the car.

Riddler
 
This works great and around 20 a roll at Home depot
 

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I've done several posts and responses with photos (that I no longer have) on what I've found to be the most effective process I've ever heard, seen or read about on this site and on Moparts, showing the complete process on my 1970 E-Body. I am about to do it to a lesser degree my '68 Barracuda convertible. I follow a process recommended for sound-proofing small aircraft that I found on the web.

There are two issues that need to be addressed and they both require specific products to accomplish, when used together, the results are amazing. The two issues are panel resonation deadening and heat, sound and vapor barrier establishment. Most people mistakenly try to treat both issues with the first product with limited results. It really takes both products to do an effective job. When I have people sit in my car and close the door, they are shocked at how quiet it is inside. It's almost like sitting in a vault or anacholic chamber. People sit there with their mouths hanging open in disbelief at how much ambient sound is cancelled without the car even running.

The materials to use are the thicker Dynamat Extreme, Fatmat or one of the other name brand foil covered mastic type stick-on mats. The purpose of this stick on mat is to deaden the resonation of your cars metal panels. Simply tap on them to determine if they "ring" when hit, and then apply strips of Dynamat Extreme until that ringing is deadened. You don't need to cover the entire surface, just use enough to deaden the panel resonation. This is where a lot of people make the mistake of trying to cover the entire surface to block all heat, noise and fumes using this product. It is designed to dampen panel vibrations, not to act as a complete barrier. The second product takes care of that.

There is also spray on undercoating and spray on interior coatings work to some degree to dampen panel resonation as well. It has to be sprayed on pretty thick to make an audible difference, but a lot of it can be top coated with your finish material. You can get the Dynamat Extreme Bulk packs at Amazon for about half price with free shipping, which makes it an attractive buy, as it is one of the most effective products out there.

The other material that needs to be used is a flexible foil covered mat filled with flame resistant insulating material, 1/2" thick seems to work best. Aircraft Spruce carries this stuffed mat under the name brand of "The Insulator". It is also available by the sheet at Speedway Motors. This material can be cut up to fit the contours of a cars interior much like a dress makers pattern, and then it can be joined together in one continuous sheet by using that wax paper backed foil tape that is used on ventilation ducts. The more complete the coverage, the better the result. I do the entire interior from front to back starting at the bottom of the front windshield down and across the floor up to the rear window and package tray including both sides of the side of the car where the rear passengers sit. I also go from door sill to door sill. It takes about 20 separately cut pieces to form a complete blanket of the stuff. Every seem is taped shut with the foil tape. I also install sheets behind my door panels and under my headliner. I also doubled up the floor pan layer with two sheets, and taped all the edges of my custom fit blanket to the cars sheet metal using the foil tape to further seal it. The stuff compresses down nicely under the carpet where the seats, seat belts and other items bolt down, but stays fluffed up elsewhere. You can't even really feel it under the carpet either.

I do all this after I have deadened the resonation on any and all panels. For my E-Body, that took 3 bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme. I could have gotten away with less, but I was still learning the process.

On my convertible, there is only so much I can do because of the lack of a metal top. It's the blanket of insulation that really makes all the difference. The Dynamat helps significantly, but the majority of the sound, heat and fume insulation is provided by the material stuffed foil barrier.
 
Thanks for the information. Never knew there was so much to learn. So on the inside of the doors and panels such as the trunk, What are you spraying in those areas. I know what the factory had was very thick, but 50 years later, I'm certain their are better products we can use.
 
jbc426 said:
I've done several posts and responses with photos (that I no longer have) on what I've found to be the most effective process I've ever heard, seen or read about on this site and on Moparts, showing the complete process on my 1970 E-Body. I am about to do it to a lesser degree my '68 Barracuda convertible.

There are two issues that need to be addressed and they both require specific products to accomplish, when used together, the results are amazing. The two issues are panel resonation deadening and heat, sound and vapor barrier establishment. Most people try to accomplish both with the first product with limited results. It really takes both products to do an effective job. When I have people sit in my car and close the door, they are shocked at how quiet it is inside. It's almost like sitting in a vault or anacholic chamber. People sit there with their mouths hanging open in disbelief at how much ambient sound is cancelled without the car even running.

The materials to use are the thicker Dynamat Extreme, Fatmat or one of the other name brand foil covered mastic type stick-on mats. The purpose of this stick on mat is to deaden the resonation of your cars metal panels. Simply tap on them to determine if they "ring" when hit, and then apply strips of Dynamat Extreme until that ringing is deadened. You don't need to cover the entire surface, just use enough to deaden the panel resonation. This is where a lot of people make the mistake of trying to cover the entire surface to block all heat, noise and fumes using this product. It is designed to dampen panel vibrations, not to act as a complete barrier. The second product takes care of that.

There is also spray on undercoating and spray on interior coatings work to some degree to dampen panel resonation as well. It has to be sprayed on pretty thick to make an audible difference, but a lot of it can be top coated with your finish material. You can get the Dynamat Extreme Bulk packs at Amazon for about half price with free shipping, which makes it an attractive buy, as it is one of the most effective products out there.

The other material that needs to be used is a flexible foil covered mat filled with flame resistant insulating material, 1/2" thick seems to work best. Aircraft Spruce carries this stuffed mat under the name brand of "The Insulator". It is also available by the sheet at Speedway Motors. This material can be cut up to fit the contours of a cars interior much like a dress makers pattern, and then it can be joined together in one continuous sheet by using that wax paper backed foil tape that is used on ventilation ducts. The more complete the coverage, the better the result. I do the entire interior from front to back starting at the bottom of the front windshield down and across the floor up to the rear window and package tray including both sides of the side of the car where the rear passengers sit. I also go from door sill to door sill. It takes about 20 separately cut pieces to form a complete blanket of the stuff. Every seem is taped shut with the foil tape. I also install sheets behind my door panels and under my headliner. I also doubled up the floor pan layer with two sheets, and taped all the edges of my custom fit blanket to the cars sheet metal using the foil tape to further seal it. The stuff compresses down nicely under the carpet where the seats, seat belts and other items bolt down, but stays fluffed up elsewhere. You can't even really feel it under the carpet either.

I do all this after I have deadened the resonation on any and all panels. For my E-Body, that took 3 bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme. I could have gotten away with less, but I was still learning the process.

On my convertible, there is only so much I can do because of the lack of a metal top. It's the blanket of insulation that really makes all the difference. The Dynamat helps significantly, but the majority of the sound, heat and fume insulation is provided by the material stuffed foil barrier.
Click to expand...

Great info!:cheers:
 
This is great info. I knew about the padding but didn't know about having to do the entire interior. How do you get it remain in place on the roof and doors?

Riddler
 
I am under the impression this was sprayed on inside the doors and side panels from the factory. The products for the floor and ceiling are a stick on substance. I understand how to do the floor and ceiling, but looking for a way to do the other parts. I guess you could brush something on and get good coverage.
 
Riddler said:
This is great info. I knew about the padding but didn't know about having to do the entire interior. How do you get it remain in place on the roof and doors?

Riddler
Click to expand...

Thanks guys.

The foil tape used to join the sections of mat together and seal all the edges to the door itself help keep the mat in place, as does the door handle and plastic door panel on the '70 E-Body.

For the overhead section, I used contact adhesive to glue the 1/2" thick mat after deadening the roof sheet metal resonance with Dynamat. I was careful to keep any material that may affect my headliner fit clear of those areas.
 
kelleherdl, could you find out what the thick stuff is he is spraying? This may be what I as well as several others are asking about am searching for.
Thanks everyone for the information. Strange, but I had to remove all of this stuff from my car, but never realized what it was until I watched Grave Yard Cars last night. Even though there is a bunch of junk and very little car work, you just may learn something every now and then.
 
Most of the aftermarket spray on material is water based now days. Resto Rick sells an oil based product used to simulate the factory style undercoating. I used it on my 70 E-Body to match the factory undercoating under the car using a Dutz spray gun. It came out looking amazingly close to original, but it took a bit of practice to get it that way.
 
jbc426 said:
Most of the aftermarket spray on material is water based now days. Resto Rick sells an oil based product used to simulate the factory style undercoating. I used it on my 70 E-Body to match the factory undercoating under the car using a Dutz spray gun. It came out looking amazingly close to original, but it took a bit of practice to get it that way.
Click to expand...

Just to back up jbc426 on the Resto Rick's undercoating if your looking to replicate the factory appearance this really is a terrific product.

This was important for me on my resto to get this as close as possible, heres a few pics of how I achieved duplicating what I originally had,

IMG_2267_zpses8e8rbb.jpg


some rough masking, I used duct tape since its heavy and resists being pushed down from the gun and flared it or left the edge of the tape pulled up so as to not leave a sharp edge but end up with a soft edge.

IMG_2268_zps5ymhxabc.jpg


Then spray using a schutz gun aiming straight at the area your covering,

IMG_2269_zpslurwndei.jpg


IMG_2272_zpslekeyqru.jpg


IMG_2275_zpsuxvlzez6.jpg


IMG_2279_zpsa947mglp.jpg


IMG_2286_zpsswanryae.jpg


I'm really pleased with the way the product matched the texture and the film build and it will deaden the sound from these panels nicely. Hope this helps if this was an area you were inquiring about.
 
Beautiful work Swing340Canuc!!! And, shoot, it was a Shultz gun, not a Dutz gun. Resto Rick's stuff is high quality.
 
I have a roll of some sound deadner that i bought and will not use as i had enough in the one roll i had already. I will sell it one day when i remember to take a photo of it.

i just cant remember the name of it. But i had to glue it down with some adhesive in a caulking gun. (liquid nails)

Now just if i can remember the name. The inside of my dart is quiet, but not modern car queit, but it could be the exhaust
 
Awesome guys. Thanks so much for the information and ideas.
 
What a great thread! Just found it. I was thinking about the best way to change the natural resonant frequency that my Dart goes into at a certain RPM. The resonance seems to occur in the trunk area that gets "excited" at roughly 2K +/- RPM. Above and below that, it's not too bad and almost goes away completely. Changing the natural frequency with DYNAMAT or some of the other products out there should work and the methods described in this thread will help keep me from turning this problem into an expensive and time consuming science project. Thanks Again to all who replied!
 
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