Source/mfg for Transmission neutral safety switch

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340inabbody

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After reading quite a bit on here and other forms, there seems to be something going on with the switches, requiring them to be manipulated with different washers in order to get them to work. I don’t know if that’s the rooster differences or what but it maybe variations of the switch?

Has anybody been able to pull this together and determine if these problems that have been seeing are variations in the switch or wrong or worn roosters?

My backup lights only works between N and R for some odd reason. Haven’t tried the trans safety part as thats also probably messed up. New switch and harness btw. 904 1970 Satellite .

So I just want to try another switch to see if that corrects the issue.

Comments thanks!
 
After reading quite a bit on here and other forms, there seems to be something going on with the switches, requiring them to be manipulated with different washers in order to get them to work. I don’t know if that’s the rooster differences or what but it maybe variations of the switch?

Has anybody been able to pull this together and determine if these problems that have been seeing are variations in the switch or wrong or worn roosters?

Mine only works between N and R for some odd reason.

So I just want to try another switch to see if that corrects the issue.

Comments thanks!
Find a vintage NOS switch...
Yes there are different combs but they are pretty easy to ID either by looking through the NSS switch hole or by removing the pan....
But the new switches have been a problem for probably eight plus years.
Before digging to deep, verify what comb you have & track down a NOS switch for that style comb....
 
Find a vintage NOS switch...
Yes there are different combs but they are pretty easy to ID either by looking through the NSS switch hole or by removing the pan....
But the new switches have been a problem for probably eight plus years.
Before digging to deep, verify what comb you have & track down a NOS switch for that style comb....
Is there a trick at installing and removing the switch? Cause I can barely get at it laying on my back underneath the car. And if I’m having this much difficulty just getting the switch out I’m not sure I’ll be able to see into the hole to see what kind of Rooster it has.
 
Mirror on a stick... Actually a 70 should have the comb with the plastic guide... Should be able to stick your finger in the hole & tell if that's what you have....
 
Mirror on a stick... Actually a 70 should have the comb with the plastic guide... Should be able to stick your finger in the hole & tell if that's what you have....
The last time I heard that, it became a very long night……
 
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Hope you had what you thought you had.... :lol:
A wise man once said “you never know what you have until you stick your finger in the hole”. I can’t say I disagree.

Assuming I have the correct comb time rooster. Does it sound like the switch is the issue if indeed the rear lights work when the transmission is just heading out of Reverse and going into neutral? Like right in between?
 
Find a vintage NOS switch...
Yes there are different combs but they are pretty easy to ID either by looking through the NSS switch hole or by removing the pan....
But the new switches have been a problem for probably eight plus years.
Before digging to deep, verify what comb you have & track down a NOS switch for that style comb....
Call A&A they seem to know what's up, and the tech is very helpful.
 
After reading quite a bit on here and other forms, there seems to be something going on with the switches, requiring them to be manipulated with different washers in order to get them to work. I don’t know if that’s the rooster differences or what but it maybe variations of the switch?

Has anybody been able to pull this together and determine if these problems that have been seeing are variations in the switch or wrong or worn roosters?

My backup lights only works between N and R for some odd reason. Haven’t tried the trans safety part as thats also probably messed up. New switch and harness btw. 904 1970 Satellite .

So I just want to try another switch to see if that corrects the issue.

Comments thanks!
70-86 all auto trans, Filko #3468
 
I just verified the neutral safety works correctly. Scratching my head here. This means the center contact is working.
 
Thanks is that a part bumber?
Yes Filko is an old brand I sold for years at the parts store. Very high quality and they aren't in business any more. You should be able to look around on E bay or exchange that number to a Nehoff or Borg Warner number and find a quality part. Like recommended earlier, the old NOS parts are quality. Most of the new Standard or NAPA replacements are made over seas and not good quality.

20250405_130643.jpg
 

I just verified the neutral safety works correctly. Scratching my head here. This means the center contact is working.
The center contact is only one part, the nylon part needs to be depressed to a specific depth to cause the back up lights to work... To shallow or to deep & they don't work.. Which is why playing with washers can get it to work... But back when switches were made correctly that was never an issue...
 
Yes Filko is an old brand I sold for years at the parts store. Very high quality and they aren't in business any more. You should be able to look around on E bay or exchange that number to a Nehoff or Borg Warner number and find a quality part. Like recommended earlier, the old NOS parts are quality. Most of the new Standard or NAPA replacements are made over seas and not good quality.

View attachment 1716467501
Yup, Filko was good stuff...
 
The center contact is only one part, the nylon part needs to be depressed to a specific depth to cause the back up lights to work... To shallow or to deep & they don't work.. Which is why playing with washers can get it to work... But back when switches were made correctly that was never an issue...
So given my N and P brakes contact correct can I assume my rooster inside the trans is correct or not?
 
Manually checking/testing the neutral safety switch.

Is the center neutral pin supposed to be open or shorted to case ground when depressed? Mine is open to ground either way depressed or non-depressed. ??????

The outside pins for reverse lights open contact when depressed and are shorted when depressed. Seems correct.
 
Manually checking/testing the neutral safety switch.

Is the center neutral pin supposed to be open or shorted to case ground when depressed? Mine is open to ground either way depressed or non-depressed. ??????

The outside pins for reverse lights open contact when depressed and are shorted when depressed. Seems correct.
The ground path is through the rooster comb... Look at the rooster combs in post 16... The center one shows it best, see those two point pointing down? they contact the center pin of the switch when the trans is in park or neutral providing the path to ground..
 
The ground path is through the rooster comb... Look at the rooster combs in post 16... The center one shows it best, see those two point pointing down? they contact the center pin of the switch when the trans is in park or neutral providing the path to ground..
I don’t see the signal path. How does the center pin provide signal path if it’s isolated and only makes contact? Does it just physically fill a gap in the rooster to make or break contact?
 
The path is to ground.. The roster comb is grounded... So when either of those points contact the center pin that wire grounds the control side of the starter relay....
 
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