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BarryC

BarryC

'74 Duster 360
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
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Location
Leitchfield, KY
Anyone had any dealings with the radiators from speedcooling.com? They list a 22" and a 26" radiator for small block. My 74 360 duster came out with a 26" radiator. Since I installed a/c, it wants to run warm on a hot day when I'm using it. The radiators they list dont list what bodies they fit. Are they all the same? The blueprint dimensions on the webpage are really close to the aftermarket radiator I put in it over 20 years ago. I dont have the factory original radiator anymore. I think the one I have is a little shorter than the original by looking at the way the shroud fits it. The one I have has 1/2" cores 9/16" apart 2 core. The aluminum ones from speedcooling are also 2 core but have 1" cores but not sure how far apart.

The old copper/brass one I have will run about 195 without a/c. With the a/c on yesterday (94 degrees outside) it wanted to run about 210 running 60 mph. It would cool down to 195-200 while idling up to 30mph. I'm guessing I dont have enough radiator by it doing this. I am running the factory shroud. After installing the Classic Auto Air kit, I also installed a seven blade fan from a factory a/c 71 duster and the correct fan clutch. It moves lots of air.

I know Im kind of windy but want to give all the information so everyone can help me before I spend the money. I like the ones from speedcooling because it looks like they have a more factory looking tank on them.

Thanks guys.
 
Wants to boil gas in carb causing hard starts. Also starts surging while at red lights. Doesn't seem to do this with a/c off. When in the upper 90's it will climb to 220-230 with a/c on. Would an aluminum radiator help?
 
I have one of summits universal dual core radiators and even with a 600 horse 408 it runs cool. I live a quarter at a time...but even after a burn out, pass, and driving all the way to my pit spot it never sees 200. Aluminum radiators are a big improvement. My stock copper and brass hardly cooled my 318 when I had it.
 
BarryC said:
Wants to boil gas in carb causing hard starts. Also starts surging while at red lights. Doesn't seem to do this with a/c off. When in the upper 90's it will climb to 220-230 with a/c on. Would an aluminum radiator help?
Click to expand...

Then address the carburetor insulating problem. You should be running a THICK (1/4") carburetor insulating gasket AND metal heat shield.
 
I already have. I'm running a spread-square adaptor because of factory intake/holley setup. On top of that is a thick 1/4" gasket then a holley heat shield. I'm running a 3310 holley with 70 jets in primary. Timing is 18 initial, 36 mechanical @2000, and 50 total mechanical and vacuum. Runs great. Just a little aggravating with the heat. Figured if I could lower the coolant temp, it would help. I did notice Saturday it was building pressure in gas tank, because I could here the cap venting when I shut I off after a 35 mile drive home. It still has vapor line running to front but no charcoal canister, just a vented dust cap on end of line.
 
20 years hmmm. i would say the radiator is clogged probably, at least partially.

you could probably take it out of the car and flush it with water real good, then drain it fill with some radiator cleaner or white vinegar & water, shake it around if you can. be careful the rusty crap that comes out will permanently stain anything lol

flush with water sommore

then do another round with your cleaner

if that doesnt do the trick, then i'd replace the radiator.

i'm pretty sure aluminum isnt "better" cooling it's just lighter weight, so popular with racers. i read somewhere that the copper / brass etc is actually more efficient.

but the main deal is you probably have clogging in there. especially if it use to run fine just like it is, and this is a new problem.
 
Where's your initial timing?
 
You are running a 26" radiator?
The new aluminum radiator would double, or nearly so, your cooling capacity of the radiator if the tubes are increased from 1/2" to 1". That would have to help.
C
 
the only reason people think aluminum cools better is that they are coming from a old plugged up copper and brass rad to a new aluminum rad. Thats been proven many times. their is no real cooling difference either way.Thats just my opinion and 34 yrs knowledge on working on and manufacturing rads
 
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