Speedmaster aluminum heads

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Daniel Dugas

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Has anyone ever ran the speedmaster assembled hydraulic flat aluminum heads? If so how did they work and are there any problems I need to know before I purchase? Thanks

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a lot of us on here have them. I mounted the fully assembled cnc heads, right out of the box, on my 340 and have had 0 problems.

Did I gain some extra hp? I have no clue, maybe, probably? But I doubt my car is really “tuned” and had some good X heads on it before. It was probably tuned better before I put these on it because Tony did all the carb and timing stuff.

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If that's the case I wouldn't waist my time or money on the Speedmaster.
The Trick Flow 190 is far superior OOTB.
buy
If that's the case I wouldn't waist my time or money on the Speedmaster.
The Trick Flow 190 is far superior OOTB.
buy once, buy :usflag:
In which ways are Trick flow better? more reliable or just straight up better power and quality?
 
The truck flows are a far superior head that flow much more CFM than a lot of horsepower games in most any engine are gained in the heads... The speedmasters are more of a factory copy with small improvements. And of course aluminum...
There's a sticky on here about all this and flowcharts and all that stuff pretty simple to look up...
 
@Daniel Dugas

Type your answer outside the quote tags.

In which ways are Trick flow better? more reliable or just straight up better power and quality?

The trick flow heads have a far superior amount of air flow at every point. This allows more air and fuel into the cylinder to produce more power.

The heads are expensive by compare and are worth every penny paid for them. You’ll notice the difference when you loose by more than a cars length.

The name speedmaster is a great gimmick to sell an item. While there is nothing wrong with the head itself, it is not a master of speed in anyway shape or form.

Others here purchase the head on Black Friday and then pay to have them ported. Unless you find a really good head porter, the last item is the additional cost of porting the head and any parts in addition that might be needed to exceed a OOTB trick flow head if that’s possible.

Check threads by Pittsburghracer on small block cylinder heads and what they’re capable of. The price of porting the head varies.
Also add shipping to and from the head porter as the total cost vs a set of trick flow heads. I think you’ll find the TF heads worth the effort to obtain.
 
I think the things that get lost all the time when talking about trickflow heads is the quality of parts and machining. The valve job is far superior to a speedmaster head and the most important thing to me is better rocker arm geometry from moving the rocker stands. You can do valve jobs and port speedmaster and edelbrock heads to flow well but you will at least need a b3 correction kit to get the rocker geometry right.
 
True. The SM heads need more than a good bit.
 
There are ZERO aftermarket heads I would buy and install out of the box. NONE. I would take anything to a competent machine shop and have them heavily inspected and or corrected if need be and the need is usually there. That's a lot of money to just throw away without checking. @318willrun has a video and story about just this very thing. Maybe he will post a link.
 
There are ZERO aftermarket heads I would buy and install out of the box. NONE. I would take anything to a competent machine shop and have them heavily inspected and or corrected if need be and the need is usually there. That's a lot of money to just throw away without checking. @318willrun has a video and story about just this very thing. Maybe he will post a link.
I agree, that's how I found out about the quality of a trick flow head (still needed valve spring heights adjusted) and the problems with others.
 
I agree, that's how I found out about the quality of a trick flow head (still needed valve spring heights adjusted) and the problems with others.
Did you see @318willrun's video? There was so much trash and what looked like left over grinding material and debris in the ports and bowls it would have destroyed the engine completely had he slapped them and started it. It was horrendous.
 
Did you see @318willrun's video? There was so much trash and what looked like left over grinding material and debris in the ports and bowls it would have destroyed the engine completely had he slapped them and started it. It was horrendous.
I did, that's just another reason I take them apart, I like to know what I have and there isn't one set that I've seen that had the spring heights right. That said my trick flows have been the nicest heads yet but even then I had one with a bad head surface, summit immediately sent out a new one with a call tag for the old, great customer service.
 
I did, that's just another reason I take them apart, I like to know what I have and there isn't one set that I've seen that had the spring heights right. That said my trick flows have been the nicest heads yet but even then I had one with a bad head surface, summit immediately sent out a new one with a call tag for the old, great customer service.
Wasn't that just ridiculous? Talk about zero quality control. But that's the world we live in.
 
Wasn't that just ridiculous? Talk about zero quality control. But that's the world we live in.
Agreed, chinese head castings better than american, intake bolt holes that are way off from the ports, hell I can't even get the same quality of food at the local restaurant twice but they have the "gratuity" already added in to my bill.
 
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Agreed, chinese head castings better than american, intake bolts that are way off from the ports, hell I can't even get the same quality of food at the local restaurant twice but they have the "gratuity" already added in to my bill.
Sickening, ain't it?
 
i had a subscriber buy the EQ cast heads just as I bought. His were spotless inside. Either luck of the draw, or they took my contact with them seriously and made a change in the QA department. I hope they fixed it, because it was a fine head otherwise.
 
Since this is the racer's Forum, I won't mention that with alloy heads, you can run the Dcr up into the NINES.
I am a steeter, and have run up to 9.23Dcr (195psi) always on 87E10, always without detonation.
Starting with 65cc chambers, may be an issue.
Jus saying
 
Since this is the racer's Forum, I won't mention that with alloy heads, you can run the Dcr up into the NINES.
I am a steeter, and have run up to 9.23Dcr (195psi) always on 87E10, always without detonation.
Starting with 65cc chambers, may be an issue.
Jus saying
:rolleyes:...... righty O
Pingity, ping, pingity , ping, pow.:lol:
 
Since this is the racer's Forum, I won't mention that with alloy heads, you can run the Dcr up into the NINES.
I am a steeter, and have run up to 9.23Dcr (195psi) always on 87E10, always without detonation.
Starting with 65cc chambers, may be an issue.
Jus saying

Damn. Still preaching nonsense about aluminum heads and compression ratio.

You are WRONG dude.
 
:rolleyes:...... righty O
Pingity, ping, pingity , ping, pow.:lol:
Since this is the racer's Forum,
I didn't want to say more;
but somebody not you fishmens, poked the bear, making it personal; so
Firstly;
I Ran it like that (post 19) for an entire summer, and, with a regularly scheduled teardown every winter for inspection; there was no sign of detonation. It was the strongest bottom end I ever had and my favorite combo.
On the next combo, a one-size bigger cam, the pressure came down a tad. I really missed that. So much so that I swapped the 2.66 low out for a 3.09. This allowed me to retard the cam, and I picked up a good amount of top end. Car went 93 in the Eighth @930ft and 3467 pounds, me in it. with 3.55s no less.
But you know;
according to some
it can't be done.
Like said; I'm a streeter with a clutch; bottom-end is everything.
With the GVod used as a splitter, my new combination of gearing, gets me; Four ratios in the Eighth, namely;
3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50 ; which in Roadgears with 3.55s is
10.97-8.86-6.82-5.32 ;
and 93mph is 6170 ;
and it takes off like it had 4.10s
First-over gets me 50@5100/60@6400, Second is 60@5100/75@6400; Power Peak is ~5100
This combination was a culmination of five years of experimentation which ended in 2004/05. After that, it was settled and I just drove the crap out of it. Both the car and I are semi-retired now. Every once in a while I take it out for a spin,
just cuz..........
Secondly:
Of course you knew he would Always makin it about him. lol
It wasn't about me until some of you guys made it so. I was just trying to help.
But you guys are the guru's, and love to put me down.
I'll tell you a couple of things tho;
1) I'll never go back to low-pressure, and
2) I'll never go back to iron heads, and
3) I'll never go back to low-temp stats
4) regularly-scheduled inspection teardowns
are cheap compared to dynomited engines.
5) a lil too much ring gap is, by far, better than tearing off lands. For a Street-car, now; If when you shut your engine off, ten minutes later, it won't crank cuz the pistons ain't moving; do yourself a favor, don't bandaid her up with cooling system mods; just do what needs to be done. She needs to come apart, and get fixed. Loosen up the skirts and open up the gaps.
6) If there ever is a next cam, it will be a solid lifter.
and Thirdly
Damn. Still preaching nonsense about aluminum heads and compression ratio. You are WRONG dude.
If this is true, then I am happy to be wrong.
I could be wrong about a lot of things; like, the shape of the Earth, the Second Coming, The THIRD Resurrection, the Four Corners of the Earth, and the Seventh-Day Sabbath...........
Fourthly;
Can you run a streeter at 195psi with iron heads?
Last I checked, not NA on 87E10.
With alloys, I've been right around 180 now, for going on 9 years. yes still and always on 87E10. And BTW, until October 2022, it was still on the original Champion copper plugs installed in 1999. In 2004 when I ran that Eighth, the plugs were already over four years old, and likely had close to 40,000 miles on 'em.

Once again,
jus saying.
 
Since this is the racer's Forum,
I didn't want to say more;
but somebody not you fishmens, poked the bear, making it personal; so
Firstly;
I Ran it like that (post 19) for an entire summer, and, with a regularly scheduled teardown every winter for inspection; there was no sign of detonation. It was the strongest bottom end I ever had and my favorite combo.
On the next combo, a one-size bigger cam, the pressure came down a tad. I really missed that. So much so that I swapped the 2.66 low out for a 3.09. This allowed me to retard the cam, and I picked up a good amount of top end. Car went 93 in the Eighth @930ft and 3467 pounds, me in it. with 3.55s no less.
But you know;
according to some
it can't be done.
Like said; I'm a streeter with a clutch; bottom-end is everything.
With the GVod used as a splitter, my new combination of gearing, gets me; Four ratios in the Eighth, namely;
3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50 ; which in Roadgears with 3.55s is
10.97-8.86-6.82-5.32 ;
and 93mph is 6170 ;
and it takes off like it had 4.10s
First-over gets me 50@5100/60@6400, Second is 60@5100/75@6400; Power Peak is ~5100
This combination was a culmination of five years of experimentation which ended in 2004/05. After that, it was settled and I just drove the crap out of it. Both the car and I are semi-retired now. Every once in a while I take it out for a spin,
just cuz..........
Secondly:

It wasn't about me until some of you guys made it so. I was just trying to help.
But you guys are the guru's, and love to put me down.
I'll tell you a couple of things tho;
1) I'll never go back to low-pressure, and
2) I'll never go back to iron heads, and
3) I'll never go back to low-temp stats
4) regularly-scheduled inspection teardowns
are cheap compared to dynomited engines.
5) a lil too much ring gap is, by far, better than tearing off lands. For a Street-car, now; If when you shut your engine off, ten minutes later, it won't crank cuz the pistons ain't moving; do yourself a favor, don't bandaid her up with cooling system mods; just do what needs to be done. She needs to come apart, and get fixed. Loosen up the skirts and open up the gaps.
6) If there ever is a next cam, it will be a solid lifter.
and Thirdly

If this is true, then I am happy to be wrong.
I could be wrong about a lot of things; like, the shape of the Earth, the Second Coming, The THIRD Resurrection, the Four Corners of the Earth, and the Seventh-Day Sabbath...........
Fourthly;
Can you run a streeter at 195psi with iron heads?
Last I checked, not NA on 87E10.
With alloys, I've been right around 180 now, for going on 9 years. yes still and always on 87E10. And BTW, until October 2022, it was still on the original Champion copper plugs installed in 1999. In 2004 when I ran that Eighth, the plugs were already over four years old, and likely had close to 40,000 miles on 'em.

Once again,
jus saying.
Boy you sure are humble. .....NOT
 
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