Spindle question

[1970Duster]

So here is a real question. I see the aftermarket suspension stuff is still using the standard wheel bearing setup but all the new sports cars (pretty sure all new cars but I haven't looked at every make model out there) have a sealed hub design. So which is better?
You see that RMS uses the standard wheel bearing setup we are use to (though it is based on the Mustang II setup, standard for a few decades)
http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16182&cat=269&page=1

But this company, the Roadster Shop, has a suspension setup that uses Hubs instead (same setup used in the cars that race in the 24 Hours of LeMans) that are based off the C6 Vette, which has a bigger brake options because it uses a Hub.
http://roadstershop.com/suspension/universal-crossmember/


Now I'm not knocking either, I just wanna know which is a better setup. The standard wheel bearing setup or the hub setup (I might not be using the correct terms here but I'm not sure what the correct terms are)?

Any help would be great guys and gals!:burnout:

 

[67Dart273]

My "old guy" opinion

Conventional Timken (tapered) SERVICEABLE wheel bearing setups as used on cars and trucks since ?? the 20's?? and up until the demise of the rear wheel driven car, are both serviceable, tough, fairly simple to maintain, and cheap.

On the other hand, a typical sealed front wheel drive can be a PITA. Requires special pullers/ tools/ press, etc, and not serviceable in any fashion. In addition, I freekin HATE the unitized Dodge 4x4 front bearings which came out in the early 70's (full time units.)

Expensive, and if you need to change the outer seal, you trash the bearings. Because those are so close together, there is a LOT of "leverage" against them when offset/ wide/ big tires and wheels are installed. There is not endplay adjustment--the bearings and matching spacer must be bought as a unit set

Bear in mind that when Jeep, Ford, and GM built full-time pickups, they simply removed the locking hubs from the existing front setup.

This horrid mess

 

[1970Duster]

I get what you're saying about the stresses put on the hub style and the non repair part. I did do a little searching after I posted this and have found that "race" hub take care of the bigger tire, increase stress from performance driving skf race hub seems to be the popular pick when it comes to that.

 

[RustyRatRod]

This is similar to the tapered roller/green bearing debate for the rear. I'll tell you this from 100% experience. I have never, ever, ever, ever seen the amount of bad tapered roller bearings front or rear as the amount of bad sealed bearings. Sealed bearings are the best thing that ever happened to the auto repair industry. I have made lots of money through the years on cars with sealed bearings. They are total crap in comparison, IMO.

 

[RedFish]

Its really all about how the stress is applied to the parts that the bearing is supporting.
If you study the conventional you'll find the center of the tire is nearly centered under the spindle. Modern wheels are almost all backspace so the spindle and bearing are moved to an outboard position in relation to the tire. No bearing is going to live forever out there but the different roller design will live longer than the tapered roller bearing would in such an outboard position.

 

[1970Duster]

Interesting. I didn't thing about the back spacing on the wheels and how that comes into play.

 

[dano]

From a manufacturing point of view, there are less parts and labor involved with the newer design for installation. Don't have to install seals, cups, then pack, assemble, and set up, then after so many miles of break in, re-setup instead of hub with sealed bearing installed, place on spindle, run on lock nut with preset torque gun and done. Very few modern designs for most products does not factor service ability let alone access to do so.

There would also be less rolling drag on the single bearing -vs- the dual tapered.