Spindle tightening spec question

[like_A_pike]

This might be the first time I have ever used a torque wrench on the hub nut. I noticed that the wheel has a little bit of resistance at 55’lbs. is that normal?

I usually just tighten it far enough to get the cotter pin in. Am I lucky to be alive or just messing up bearings by not seating them correctly?

Thanks

Oh 1968 Barracuda with ‘73 spindles (& I’m using a ‘68 manual) didn’t think of that???!!

 

[remytherat]

I usually just tighten it far enough to get the cotter pin in.

You want to tighten it and then back it off a little and then snug it again. It is hard to explain because it is a feel thing, based on how the wheel spins as you turn it. It should turn smooth with a tiny bit of resistance.

 

[like_A_pike]

It is smooth after that but it takes a couple pounds of effort to make it (the rotor) turn with one hand.

 

[like_A_pike]

Per the 1973 service manual

Adjustment

(1) Tighten adjusting nut to 240-300 inch-pounds

while rotating wheel. Stop rotation and back off the

adjusting nut with wrench, to completely release

bearing preload. Next, finger tighten adjusting nut

and install lock nut (Fig. 10) with cotter pin. The resulting

adjustment should be .0001-.003 inch end play.

(2) Clean grease cap, coat inside with wheel bearing

lubricant (DO NOT FILL) and install.

(3) Install wheel covers and lower vehicle to floor.

Another poster mentioned that that’s 20’ lbs! I think I’ve over done it a bunch

 

[junkyardhero]

that's 55 inch lbs right? right??

if you at five-five of feets pounds that's WAY WAY over and you may have damaged something

 

[like_A_pike]

1968 manual. I backed them out and seem ok.

 

[cudamark]

I NEVER preload wheel bearings. Hand tighten the spindle nut only. You can tighten the nut SLIGHTLY more if you're really close to getting the cotter pin in, but, that's it. I've been doing that for over 50 years now and have never had to replace a wheel bearing on any of my dozens of vehicles I've owned.

 

[like_A_pike]

Me neither, hence the question! They feel right now. Hope I didn’t mess anything up!

 

[RustyRatRod]

300 inch pounds (which is the correct spec posted above) is 25 foot pounds, so you have the spindle nut TWICE as tight as it should be. Also, they must have some preload, as the FSM states.

 

[72bluNblu]

The proper procedure is right there in the FSM. The tightening spec is not the final tightening spec, it’s just to seat the bearings in the proper spot. Then the spindle nut gets backed off completely, and then finger tightened so that the cotter pin can be inserted.

The final spec is just .001-.003” of end play, with the nut finger tightened. That indicates no preload at all, because there is still end play.

 

[like_A_pike]

The proper procedure is right there in the FSM. The tightening spec is not the final tightening spec, it’s just to seat the bearings in the proper spot. Then the spindle nut gets backed off completely, and then finger tightened so that the cotter pin can be inserted.

The final spec is just .001-.003” of end play, with the nut finger tightened. That indicates no preload at all, because there is still end play.

I found your post from an 8 yo thread (w reference to a’73 manual) thanks x2 I guess
my car is a ‘68 and I only use/have the FSM for that. Not helpful when your spindle is a’73 and in ‘68 it says crank that nut to 55’lb! Didn’t occur to me until after!

 

[72bluNblu]

I found your post from an 8 yo thread (w reference to a’73 manual) thanks x2 I guess
my car is a ‘68 and I only use/have the FSM for that. Not helpful when your spindle is a’73 and in ‘68 it says crank that nut to 55’lb! Didn’t occur to me until after!

It shouldn’t really be an issue unless you drove the car around with the spindle nuts tightened like that. That initial spec, regardless of what year spindle/brake set up you have, is just for seating the bearings. Everything for a ‘68 would get tightened and then backed off completely just like the 73+ stuff. For that matter, any spindle/brake set up using tapered wheel bearings pretty much follows the same procedure.

 

[Dana67Dart]

This is 67 FSM says about the spindle nut.

This is what the 73 FSM says

 

[str12-340]

OK, I give up... why coat the inside of the cap with bearing grease?

 

[Dana67Dart]

OK, I give up... why coat the inside of the cap with bearing grease?

Because the good book says to.

And probably the same reason to coat the inside of the hub.

My guess is it gives some sealing to the cap to the hub?

 

[dadsbee]

Same reason it tells you to fill the hub between bearings with grease. So when shat gets hot that grease keeps the bearings lubed. Also keeps the cap from rusting from the inside out...

 

[Murray]

Better to be a bit tight than to be too loose.

 

[cudamark]

Better to be a bit tight than to be too loose.

Nope.

 

[67Dart273]

Better to be a bit tight than to be too loose.

Too loose you may pound the bearings out early. Too tight you may seize the thing and snap off the spindle or cause the wheel to slide with, uh, "interesting" results