Spray on factory hypers(Magnums)....

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Abodybomber

Abodybomber

Breaking street machines , since 1983.....:)
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Anyone here ,actually tried it? Well familar,on 2 stages with forged piston rats.What has been dine ,and safe?
 
The popular answer is going to a 100 shot/ 125 shot with are.
I personaly have not tried it.

I'd like to hear from the "Been there done that" crew myself.
 
Been there done that.lol 150 shot for 4 yrs(10.90's 123mph @3550lbs, never any issue,but you better know how to tune it or your not going to get the same result. I have a new low $$$ 360 magnum build in an A body that should run even better.
 

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I should mention this is on reused stock headbolts and $30.00pr head gaskets,nothing tricky about it.
 
Ive been there
125 shot is ok with a stock engine
more than that:banghead:

I tried 175 shot with felpro gasket
100 LL av gas
stock heads bolt
and kb 191 piston 12.33 cr.
I end up with heads gasket to change
after that I used coper heads gaskets
arp heads bolt and race fuel

it went from 11.48 to 10.45 with a 125 shot
but never used more than that was to chicken I assume

first retard the timing 2* per 50hp of juice
be sure to have enough gas(pressure and volume)
never assume you have enough high octane gas
detonation thats what kill nitrous engine
 
I would like to ad to this Make sure you know how to read spark plugs. No the proper way to get a true reading.... Good luck and spray away.. I DO...:)
 
boosted said:
I would like to ad to this Make sure you know how to read spark plugs. No the proper way to get a true reading.... Good luck and spray away.. I DO...:)
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Reading plugs is fundamental to any build,most don't take the time or ........ Most combos have cylinders that need attention if you want the best chance at success.
 
goldmember said:
Been there done that.lol 150 shot for 4 yrs(10.90's 123mph @3550lbs, never any issue,but you better know how to tune it or your not going to get the same result. I have a new low $$$ 360 magnum build in an A body that should run even better.
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How consistent is it?
 
Looking to hit the track soon if it doesn't get sold before. I dumped the hyd roller for a flat tappet hyd but other than some head tricks its stock down to the head gaskets. Not enough gear to really run well but I'm looking for low 12's and mid 10's on a small shot. We will see if I'm nuts or not.
 

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Neat post. Curious,what cam? Bullitt custom grind, narrow lca's,my guess.
 
Bullet cams,grinding and old(1994?) hyd Ultradyne .842 ,yep Bullet sells more UD lobes than their own.LOL I'm buddies with the crew at Bullet and stop in to hang out with Tim,Kirk and the crew. The LSA was(like always) a compromise that I made and tight is relative. LOL The cam spins to 7200rpm(well past peak) with a mild spring and for a build like this it's fine. I've been using .904 lobes since 1995 and the .904 hyd are OK if you keep the RPMS low but most are very hard to control without lots of effort,I rarely use a .904 hyd unless the rpm range is well below 6000rpm and even with that I often stay with something that is simple yet makes good power. So many guys look at numbers and think they can tell what is going to happen,with a hyd lifter you DO NOT know. End of story.
 
Understand,caught that,in other posts,from you. If your gonna spin it up ,solid flat tappet/ roller makes too much sense.
 
Yep, I LOVE solids but these hyds are very nice and will blow the bottom end out of a stock build.
 
Not knockin,get it. Just asking,to learn. Learned through blown carnage myself,why I ask questions like this now,LOL.
 
how come the switch from the roller to the flat tappet? is it because you had the cam laying around and a regrind would be cheaper?

also, what all is done to the motor if you dont mind me asking?

I honestly loved sooo much how my 360 ran on 87 octane, that I have actually more then once thought about selling off everything, going back to a stock bottom end motor, dedicated cell for the nitrous, and letting it eat at the track...except that nitrous is like 8.50-10 bucks a pound here
 
mshred said:
how come the switch from the roller to the flat tappet? is it because you had the cam laying around and a regrind would be cheaper?

also, what all is done to the motor if you dont mind me asking?

I honestly loved sooo much how my 360 ran on 87 octane, that I have actually more then once thought about selling off everything, going back to a stock bottom end motor, dedicated cell for the nitrous, and letting it eat at the track...except that nitrous is like 8.50-10 bucks a pound here
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I'm not a big hyd roller cam fan except in low rpm truck engines. I could have sent a stock hyd roller for a regrind and that would have been cheapest,but the factory wide LSA sucks for mid range torque low rpms ,low compression street engine with any decent lobes. The hyd lifter cam I put in it I have used as Purple shaft replacements when the customer wanted an upgrade and still able to use junk valve springs,etc. The lighter lifter weight combined with stable lobes makes for a great combo that will live a long life and rev high enough to worry me a bit. The lower end is stone stock. There's really nothing to a build like this and yes it will run hard on 87 and that was the point of building it in the first place. The other reason is I have a large pile of 360 cores and after I test them (sometimes before) I sell them and build something else. Someone help me find a bargain on the MP 5.9 magnum race block please,PN P5153452 Thanks
 
mshred said:
how come the switch from the roller to the flat tappet? is it because you had the cam laying around and a regrind would be cheaper?

also, what all is done to the motor if you dont mind me asking?

I honestly loved sooo much how my 360 ran on 87 octane, that I have actually more then once thought about selling off everything, going back to a stock bottom end motor, dedicated cell for the nitrous, and letting it eat at the track...except that nitrous is like 8.50-10 bucks a pound here
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I'm not advocating the use of stock piston builds for N2O but if you have one you might as well hit it. I do understand the joy of the simple builds that work better than expected.
 
goldmember said:
I'm not a big hyd roller cam fan except in low rpm truck engines. I could have sent a stock hyd roller for a regrind and that would have been cheapest,but the factory wide LSA sucks for mid range torque low rpms ,low compression street engine with any decent lobes. The hyd lifter cam I put in it I have used as Purple shaft replacements when the customer wanted an upgrade and still able to use junk valve springs,etc. The lighter lifter weight combined with stable lobes makes for a great combo that will live a long life and rev high enough to worry me a bit. The lower end is stone stock. There's really nothing to a build like this and yes it will run hard on 87 and that was the point of building it in the first place. The other reason is I have a large pile of 360 cores and after I test them (sometimes before) I sell them and build something else. Someone help me find a bargain on the MP 5.9 magnum race block please,PN P5153452 Thanks
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haven't had good luck with hydraulic rollers myself much over 6000rpm, although I will say they do make some good power...but the lifters are heavy as you said. Was just curious what your reasoning was.

And yes, the simple combos that run surprisingly well are super fun! they only suck in a street car when you pull besides someone and a mid 12 just don't cut it lol
 
Goldmember,your last statement said the whole essence of the thread,Thank you. As for the explanation of your situation,makes total sense.
 
Hyper pistons are a lot stronger than people think. The things to keep in mind are that detonation KILLs them, and there is a lower max limit cylinder pressure they will tolerate vs a forged piston. And when they go, they GO. You will be picking pieces out of everything.

Here's a GM LS engine with 250 shot and too much timing...It did hold up beautifully to a 200 shot for quite a while. Some of the GM guys are spraying these a lot more than that with success.
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I think its the fords and confusion between hyper and traditional cast that really give the hyper pistons a bad name. The good news is that the pistons used in the Magnum engines don't have fragile ring lands like those in the 4.6 Fords and even those really throw rods more than they break pistons with nitrous/boost. Fortunately, the Mopar magnum rod is far superior to the cracked cap crap used in the modern Ford stuff.

Make sure your fuel system is up to par, use good gas, sneak up on the timing, a wideband never hurts, and don't get too greedy and I'm sure you can get away with a lot.
 
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