There are two rear end assembly's that will work for this swap fairly well if you don't mind putting a ford under it to save some $$. A Ford Explorer rear from a 1996 to 2010(?) will come wheel to wheel mounting 59.6 inch wide. That combined with Mustang GT (2005 to 2010) 18 x 8.5 or 17x 8 inch wheels with 255 x 50 x 18 tires will fit up in there like they grew there. About 5/8 inch clearance on inside and outside. The rear I bought cost me $200, came with Disc brakes, 3.73 and a limited slip and 31 spline axles. The other option is a Ford Ranger FX4 rear from about the same years. You must get the FX4 rear and there is a II (?) designation listed which gets you the big axles and a better locker. The easiest ratio to find for the Explorer rear is 3.73 but 3.55 and 4.10 is also available. The FX4 rear I think is 4.10, but not sure on that. That rear has the benefit of being 55.6 inches wheel mount to wheel mount width, EXACTLY the width of a A body 8 3/4 mopar rear from 63 to 73.Be sure and scrounge the companion flange that goes between the rear and the rear driveshaft u joint, along with the metric bolts that it uses. Get the larger of the companion flanges, a 1330 joint size. Also try and get a rear with serviceable brakes with hoses. You will have to use two hoses from the passenger side to plumb everything to the mopar flex line that goes from chassis to housing. This rear wheel combo is a bolt in after you do the spring relocation kit. Be sure and get the front spring eye holes as far up as you can. I managed to go 2 1/4 higher than the factory hole yet still needed the lowering blocks to accommodate the high arc of the SS 002 and 003 springs. Stock springs may work much better and have a lot less arc allowing you a very versatile setup for ride height. I had thought of trying an extra half leaf on stock springs to create a good working spring with much less arc. The spring plates came off a B body, and the axle tube diameter on the ford rear is 3 1/4. Nine inch U bolts will accommodate the lowering blocks. You will have to weld on some little mounts for the brake fittings also.
All in all this deal saves a ton of $$ if you scrounge the odds and ends and get serviceable brakes with it.
One other thing to consider is moving the axle back 1 /2 inch when you locate the holes. This gives you lots of room for the front of the wheel well, but gets close to the gas tank and shocks. But I did get the air shocks back in there and the lip on the front of the tank only needed a little bending to fit everything.
The driveshaft is going to need a 1330 series joint at the back also, as that is the biggest companion flange made. Spicer sells them if you can't find one at the bone yard.
if you don't mind PM me with all the details? I'm thinking of adding 17" wheels on my 62 Wagon and would like to know about your setup as that is what I'm looking to do to mine.
